Cree LED H7 upgrade?

[Scotteh20]

I bought both the H4 and H7 kits last night. I was able to get the H4 kit installed and it fits fine. The vents for the cooling are partially covered, but I would say that they are still open at least 50%.

Unfortunately, due to how far in the H7 lights needs to be pushed in and twisted to lock it into place, I was not able to install it with the rubber boot to seal the enclosure. It does install like the other poster mentioned without the boot, but even then there isn't really any extra clearance for the wire that comes out of the LED housing at the back. I tried modifying the boot by cutting some of the portion of it out that sticks in towards the housing, which would still allow for a seal, but it did not work for me. I felt like I was maybe able to push it in to get it seeted and twisted it to lock it into place, but it just wouldn't hold.

Also, when it's installed without the rubber boot, it's clear that the LED light's housing is heavier which seems like it strains the clip that secures the headlight bulb. I believe the clip would be fine, but it actually doesn't even push the top of the plastic shroud that goes around the LED housing and clips into place to hold it in the headlamp housing.

BTW, I have an '07 with the BD43 dual headlight mod installed. I decided to go for a ride with both installed, the left side without the rubber boot of course, to see how they performed. I can say that I love the color of the light they produce. I think they look fantastic. Unfortunately, They did not "light up the roadway" as well as I was hoping. I believe this is due to how they are reflecting within the headlamp housing though.

Long story short, the H4 will install with the rubber boot and no modification, but a portion of the vents are covered. I could not get the H7 installed with the rubber boot, even with some modification. The way the light reflects from the housing onto the roadway left me wanting more light. I had 1 other driver out of about 30 flash their high beams at me when I was running my low beams. I truly wish these worked with the FZ6 as more of a plug and play, but it just doesn't seem they they are. I'm not sure yet what I'll do. I'm leaning towards returning them and going back to halogen bulbs so that I can see the roadway better at night. I'm not a big fan of not having the left side without the rubber boot either. I'll leave them in for a few weeks to see if I change my mind.

 

[symtex]

Thanks for the update, this is the info I was looking for. I think I will stick with halogens for now.

I bought both the H4 and H7 kits last night. I was able to get the H4 kit installed and it fits fine. The vents for the cooling are partially covered, but I would say that they are still open at least 50%.

Unfortunately, due to how far in the H7 lights needs to be pushed in and twisted to lock it into place, I was not able to install it with the rubber boot to seal the enclosure. It does install like the other poster mentioned without the boot, but even then there isn't really any extra clearance for the wire that comes out of the LED housing at the back. I tried modifying the boot by cutting some of the portion of it out that sticks in towards the housing, which would still allow for a seal, but it did not work for me. I felt like I was maybe able to push it in to get it seeted and twisted it to lock it into place, but it just wouldn't hold.

Also, when it's installed without the rubber boot, it's clear that the LED light's housing is heavier which seems like it strains the clip that secures the headlight bulb. I believe the clip would be fine, but it actually doesn't even push the top of the plastic shroud that goes around the LED housing and clips into place to hold it in the headlamp housing.

BTW, I have an '07 with the BD43 dual headlight mod installed. I decided to go for a ride with both installed, the left side without the rubber boot of course, to see how they performed. I can say that I love the color of the light they produce. I think they look fantastic. Unfortunately, They did not "light up the roadway" as well as I was hoping. I believe this is due to how they are reflecting within the headlamp housing though.

Long story short, the H4 will install with the rubber boot and no modification, but a portion of the vents are covered. I could not get the H7 installed with the rubber boot, even with some modification. The way the light reflects from the housing onto the roadway left me wanting more light. I had 1 other driver out of about 30 flash their high beams at me when I was running my low beams. I truly wish these worked with the FZ6 as more of a plug and play, but it just doesn't seem they they are. I'm not sure yet what I'll do. I'm leaning towards returning them and going back to halogen bulbs so that I can see the roadway better at night. I'm not a big fan of not having the left side without the rubber boot either. I'll leave them in for a few weeks to see if I change my mind.

 

[Motogiro]

Addressing the boot, my bike is the SV1000s so my headlamp assembly is different. I did have to modify my boots. Because of the nature of the cooling assembly at the back of the lamp it will probably be hard to find a bike where you won't have to modify the boot. This I believe is a problem as well as aiming the headlamp assembly.

There's a wider difference from hi to lo beam aiming which means you have to find a happy medium which I think I've found with mine but the FZ6 may be different with having 2 different headlamp types and reflectors.

The last night time test ride I did was closer aiming to what I needed but not optimal and I've readjusted them again. Tonight will be my last test and decision on if I will keep them. If I keep them I will come up with a solution to seal the boots. If not, they go back to the store and I will order new boots.

 

[Motogiro]

Re: Battery leads reversed, what now?

Quick update. I still haven't gotten a chance to replace the ignition switch, but I haven't had a hint of trouble in the last week, which is good since the last "fix" I posted about didn't seem to take.

It worked great for a couple days, but after I accidentally tried to start it in gear (I know), the battery was too weak to start it and a decent amount of highway riding wasn't bringing it back up.

Fortunately, the next day I got a new battery in (I'd ordered while I was out of town before O'Reily's gave me a clean bill of health because I was so confident mine was shot) and a LED headlight (which I ordered thinking that reducing power draw could wring a little more life out of an underperforming stator). I put the battery on the tender overnight, and noticed in the morning that it reached a much higher peak voltage than the old battery had (I don't recall the exact number). I installed both in the morning.

Since then, everything has been great. Haven't had a hint of decreased battery power, and the new LED seems brighter than the bulb it replaced--not bad for $35 shipped. Planning on swapping out the other bulb soon.

good that you're back up and running! What LED headlamp did you get?

 

[artibramuir]

Re: Battery leads reversed, what now?

good that you're back up and running! What LED headlamp did you get?

1x-H4-9003-LED-Headlight-Hi-Lo-Beam-3000LM-Motorcycle-6000K-White-30W-Cree-Bulb.

It was a little tricky to install, as it has a larger diameter than the stock setup as well as the large protrusion on the back. However, it's one of the few I saw that has integrated drivers, so that's one less thing flopping around up there. I had to remove the rubber boot in the process, but now that I know how to fit the bulb in just right I'm going to see about putting it back on.

 

[Motogiro]

Re: Battery leads reversed, what now?

1x-H4-9003-LED-Headlight-Hi-Lo-Beam-3000LM-Motorcycle-6000K-White-30W-Cree-Bulb.

It was a little tricky to install, as it has a larger diameter than the stock setup as well as the large protrusion on the back. However, it's one of the few I saw that has integrated drivers, so that's one less thing flopping around up there. I had to remove the rubber boot in the process, but now that I know how to fit the bulb in just right I'm going to see about putting it back on.

Looks a lot like the design I just installed except the unit's I have use a dish type reflector.

The boot is an issue and I plan to resolve it soon because I'd like to have the assembly as closed as possible. My boots are vented and not entirely sealed but moisture from heat differential should be far reduced when you compare the Cree to a Halogen lamp.

 

[artibramuir]

Re: Battery leads reversed, what now?

Looks a lot like the design I just installed except the unit's I have use a dish type reflector.

The boot is an issue and I plan to resolve it soon because I'd like to have the assembly as closed as possible. My boots are vented and not entirely sealed but moisture from heat differential should be far reduced when you compare the Cree to a Halogen lamp.

So you left your boot off, too? I am somewhat worried about overheating, maybe I'll cut some vents in mine before I reinstall it to split the difference.

 

[Motogiro]

Re: Battery leads reversed, what now?

So you left your boot off, too? I am somewhat worried about overheating, maybe I'll cut some vents in mine before I reinstall it to split the difference.

No my boots are on. I just opened them up to facilitate getting the units installed and clearance for the heat sinks.
Remember I have a different bike.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re: Battery leads reversed, what now?

No my boots are on. I just opened them up to facilitate getting the units installed and clearance for the heat sinks.
Remember I have a different bike.

Just a thought.

With his bulbs being advertised to be used on motorcycles, and the bulb having the heat sink built into it, would it make sense that the bulb (actually the sink sticking out the back) can survive rain/moisture?

Of course a standard bulb doesn't like oil from fingers, with the design of this one, (LED), it may not be nearly as tempermental to water/oil, etc?

Thoughts?

 

[Motogiro]

Just a thought.

With his bulbs being advertised to be used on motorcycles, and the bulb having the heat sink built into it, would it make sense that the bulb (actually the sink sticking out the back) can survive rain/moisture?

Of course a standard bulb doesn't like oil from fingers, with the design of this one, (LED), it may not be nearly as tempermental to water/oil, etc?

Thoughts?

Precisely Scott. The part of the lamp assembly that sticks out the back (heat sink and fan) are okay with water. The front of the lamp assembly is inside the headlamp reflector assembly and pretty much protected unless it were doused or submerged in water. My headlamp assembly, and I imagine the FZ6 is similar, has a reflector that is moveable inside the headlamp housing assembly. The rubber boot at the back completely seals out moisture and dust from being able to enter the back of the headlamp housing assembly except for a possible vent hole on the boot.

The Speed Metal brand I installed has a 2 part lamp assembly. The part with the 3 tabs for correct clocking as in your standard H4 Halogen. This tabbed assembly is attached to a sleeve. That assembly is installed as you would the H4 bulb and locked in with the clip and then the boot is installed. After the boot is installed the actual Cree LED lamp is installed through the boot and sleeve and turned to lock into place. The problem is clearance right where the lamp is inserted through the boot and into the sleeve. See the instruction sheet here: http://www.600riders.com/forum/showpost.php?p=601378&postcount=41

Although these Cree operate at much cooler temps than the halogens, it is advised not to touch the yellow Cree LED. The Cree must still get pretty hot and less oils/debris will mean better light and better heat dissipation.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Precisely Scott. The part of the lamp assembly that sticks out the back (heat sink and fan) are okay with water. The front of the lamp assembly is inside the headlamp reflector assembly and pretty much protected unless it were doused or submerged in water. My headlamp assembly, and I imagine the FZ6 is similar, has a reflector that is moveable inside the headlamp housing assembly. The rubber boot at the back completely seals out moisture and dust from being able to enter the back of the headlamp housing assembly except for a possible vent hole on the boot.

The Speed Metal brand I installed has a 2 part lamp assembly. The part with the 3 tabs for correct clocking as in your standard H4 Halogen. This tabbed assembly is attached to a sleeve. That assembly is installed as you would the H4 bulb and locked in with the clip and then the boot is installed. After the boot is installed the actual Cree LED lamp is installed through the boot and sleeve and turned to lock into place. The problem is clearance right where the lamp is inserted through the boot and into the sleeve. See the instruction sheet here: http://www.600riders.com/forum/showpost.php?p=601378&postcount=41

Although these Cree operate at much cooler temps than the halogens, it is advised not to touch the yellow Cree LED. The Cree must still get pretty hot and less oils/debris will mean better light and better heat dissipation.

I looked at the directions for yours and with the bulb / fan being separate from the 3 tab mounting plate makes it MUCH easier to install with the boot.

Now Art's set up, my impression is, it doesn't have a separate 3 tab "bracket" , like yours (that's securred into the bulb holder first) but is one piece making slipping the boot on a whole different ball game, correct?

 

[Motogiro]

I looked at the directions for yours and with the bulb / fan being separate from the 3 tab mounting plate makes it MUCH easier to install with the boot.

Now Art's set up, my impression is, it doesn't have a separate 3 tab "bracket" , like yours (that's securred into the bulb holder first) but is one piece making slipping the boot on a whole different ball game, correct?

It would make it very hard to install if it were not at least a 2 piece set up. You would have cut a really big area of the boot out because you need to get the clip latched. I think the Speed Metal Kit is a pretty decent install with minimal boot modification.

 

[Mayoisthedevil]

I too tried the Speedmetal LED kit, and I had the same problem with the H7 bulb. The bottom line is it just doesn't fit with or without the boot. There isn't enough clearance for the retaining clip to latch into place. I suppose with some modification I could make it work, but I was really looking for a drop-in replacement. The H4 side was a flawless fit, and both lights were super bright. It's a shame they had to go back.

I picked up some Phillips X-Treme Vision Halogens instead. The difference from stock halogens is dramatic, and for the price I'm happy with them.

 

[Koissu]

Back on sale should anyone be interested.

SPEEDMETAL - LED Conversion Kit - Headlights - Electrical - Parts - Cycle Gear

 

[iviyth0s]

I still don't understand how something that's so much more efficient (and therefore running much cooler) needs active cooling. I think that's oddly what'd keep me from using this, it just seems unnecessary.

Also is the 24W-25W rating including the draw of the cooling fan or is that just the LED array's draw?

Naturally I wouldn't consider HIDs or LEDs until my stock bulb(s) crap out but I'm sad to see it wasn't really a great improvement nor very compatible with the FZ6

 

[Laurence243]

My high beam shipped from VLED.COM today, will update when I install. I went with an HID for the low beam, see my thread in this section if you're interested.

This explains the heat issue pretty well. Fact or Fiction

Basically, leds produce 3x the light of incandescent per watt but that is still only 15% of their total output - the other 75% is heat.

 

[Motogiro]

My high beam shipped from VLED.COM today, will update when I install. I went with an HID for the low beam, see my thread in this section if you're interested.

This explains the heat issue pretty well. Fact or Fiction

Basically, leds produce 3x the light of incandescent per watt but that is still only 15% of their total output - the other 75% is heat.

Good write up on the percent efficiency of the LED..

 

[iviyth0s]

My high beam shipped from VLED.COM today, will update when I install. I went with an HID for the low beam, see my thread in this section if you're interested.

This explains the heat issue pretty well. Fact or Fiction

Basically, leds produce 3x the light of incandescent per watt but that is still only 15% of their total output - the other 75% is heat.

Yeah but there literally can't be more heat if the energy in is less than the filament bulb they're replacing.

 

[Smersh]

Yeah but there literally can't be more heat if the energy in is less than the filament bulb they're replacing.

My understanding is that an LED can actually have more heat than incandescent even with lower input. Since IR output of incandescent lamp carries energy away and heats other surfaces, actual heat output of LED is higher even when input is lower (see the simplistic comparison 100W incandescent and 35 W LED - the heat output of LED is more than twice the heat output of incandescent) - this is why the high-performance LED flashlights heat up so much compared to incandescent counterparts - input is lower, but more energy "stays" with the element and "turns" into heat.



Offtopic:
and why am I in this thread? I've baked my headlights and painted them to install HID. i shouldn't care

 

[Smersh]

My high beam shipped from VLED.COM today, will update when I install. I went with an HID for the low beam, see my thread in this section if you're interested.

This explains the heat issue pretty well. Fact or Fiction

Basically, leds produce 3x the light of incandescent per watt but that is still only 15% of their total output - the other 75% is heat.

Thanks for the link. good read.