Cree LED H7 upgrade?

[Motogiro]

Rather entertaining is the price gouging across the same product yet different markets. Does that mean bike riders are CHEAP?

We've come near full circle again as the light output from a single sided LED is not like that of a Halogen H4. The clock is still running!

Tick..tock.....tick.......tock..........tick..........tock!!! Lol!

Cycle Gear does have both H7 and H4 configuration....

Something I thought of as I looked at the inlet for airflow is those will collect dust and impede air flow resulting in early retirement of the lamp so add a note to your maintenance list/sched, maybe at oil change, check your inlet screens.
I wouldn't use pressurized air but instead, pull the cover and clean the screen if dirty.

 

[patrickb37]

I'm curious as to why the LED kit needs a ballast. LED's normally run on DC current just like the stock halogen bulbs, and don't require a DC-AC converter like Xenons do.
How's the new FZ07?

 

[Motogiro]

I'm curious as to why the LED kit needs a ballast. LED's normally run on DC current just like the stock halogen bulbs, and don't require a DC-AC converter like Xenons do.

Probably high frequency pulse width and it not a typical "ballast" as used with HID...

Sent from Moto's Motorola

 

[FinalImpact]

From the size of the black box and rated output of the device I'd guess they modulate the output at a frequency above what our eyes detect?

If doing this, it allows them to exceed the LED MAX rating as the duty cycle is not 100% (it cools in the off state)... Just a guess as that box is huge for a current regulator!
....
The "black box" or LED light driver as they call it. Certainly not a ballast as LEDs are not high voltage rather, high current.
....

I'm curious as to why the LED kit needs a ballast. LED's normally run on DC current just like the stock halogen bulbs, and don't require a DC-AC converter like Xenons do.
How's the new FZ07?

True - Its not a Ballast!

Like Cliff said, it modulates the output. It does so at a rate that our eyes don't detect it. This allows greater output without over heating.

Think of shorting a small gauge wire across a battery. If removed in time it will glow but NOT burn in half. By allowing these LEDs to use more current but cycling them (that pulse modulation thing), they run bright and hot, but don't burn up. That little bit of off time we don't see allows them to cool.

Cliff,
Was saying, not all reflector housings are equal. Some low beam housings will do better than others as the output is not 360 like a halogen (Hooligan )

 

[Motogiro]

True - Its not a Ballast!

Like Cliff said, it modulates the output. It does so at a rate that our eyes don't detect it. This allows greater output without over heating.

Think of shorting a small gauge wire across a battery. If removed in time it will glow but NOT burn in half. By allowing these LEDs to use more current but cycling them (that pulse modulation thing), they run bright and hot, but don't burn up. That little bit of off time we don't see allows them to cool.

Cliff,
Was saying, not all reflector housings are equal. Some low beam housings will do better than others as the output is not 360 like a halogen (Hooligan )

They may still be bumping up the voltage as the top voltage of the LED device itself is probably a typical 32 vdc.

 

[FinalImpact]

Another, like that used in the utube vid that screws together.
Silver High Lumen 6400lm Cree LED Headlight Bulbs H7 DRL Fog Lamp Bulb Kits for Motorcycle - good quality Cree LED Headlight Bulbs products

They need a water cooler like a aftermarket CPU cooler and ditch the fan! :thumbup:

 

[Marcin]

I've found some test on one of Polish forums dedicated to various lightning.
I won't translate all for You, but the main points are:

1. Very hot!
2. No cutoff - the "glare" (did I use the right word) is so spread that it won't work as normal light. Possibly better for off-road when You need a lot of light around.

Take a look

Diodowe zamienniki

 

[Motogiro]

I've found some test on one of Polish forums dedicated to various lightning.
I won't translate all for You, but the main points are:

1. Very hot!
2. No cutoff - the "glare" (did I use the right word) is so spread that it won't work as normal light. Possibly better for off-road when You need a lot of light around.

Take a look

Diodowe zamienniki

If you look at the standar H4 halogen lamp there is no provision for a cutoff but they work well with the reflector they are designed for. If you look at the dish type reflector at this link: SPEEDMETAL - LED Conversion Kit - Headlights - Electrical - Parts - Cycle Gear you will see the reflector that has been added which is different from the LED shown in your link. I suspect this dish reflector is designed to emit light in a more efficient way to emulate the H4 halogen but instead with more lumens. Naturally there will be some heat from these Cree LEDs but they have provided for cooling that will cool them efficiently.

The ones shown on your link have no dish reflector.

 

[Motogiro]

One more note: Heat will be reduced if the LED does not need as much current. The dish reflector may make it possible to reduce how hard the LED is being pushed for the same amount amount of lumen output thus reducing heat by a large percentage.

 

[Marcin]

If you look at the standar H4 halogen lamp there is no provision for a cutoff but they work well with the reflector they are designed for. If you look at the dish type reflector at this link: SPEEDMETAL - LED Conversion Kit - Headlights - Electrical - Parts - Cycle Gear you will see the reflector that has been added which is different from the LED shown in your link. I suspect this dish reflector is designed to emit light in a more efficient way to emulate the H4 halogen but instead with more lumens. Naturally there will be some heat from these Cree LEDs but they have provided for cooling that will cool them efficiently.

The ones shown on your link have no dish reflector.

Ok, U might be right. We need somebody to buy and check [emoji6]

 

[Motogiro]

Ok, U might be right. We need somebody to buy and check [emoji6]

As soon as they go back on sale again I'll be installing then and give a report.

 

[wshski]

just tried the Cycle Gear LED Headlight. Dosen't work unless you want to modify several things. Great light though when hook up. The fan housing is to close to the bulb, thereby the retaining clip won't work unless it is modify somehow.Also the rubber boot doesn't work between the light and fan. you can't push it in the recieving slot, it't too thick even after cutting it down to slide over the bulb. then if you get the rubber boot all around the fan opening so it can't get air circulating. I tryed cutting a rubber washer to fit around the bulb to sealed the bulb at the opening slot (for waterproofing) and left rubber boot off. This could work but you leave a opening exposed to the inner fairing. That might be ok, not sure though. Cycle Gear will have the LED lights on sale Black Friday, the salesman told me if anyone wants to try one.

 

[wshski]

BTW. I got the H7 light, not the H4. Wanted to try the low beam first.

 

[Motogiro]

BTW. I got the H7 light, not the H4. Wanted to try the low beam first.

If you don't have the bd43 mod to your H4 headlamp you will want to do it before you switch to the Cree H4.

 

[FB400]

with all this trouble I will stick with HID's. I like the sharp cutoff given by the projectors. I thought LED's would be cost effective but see they really are not

 

[Motogiro]

with all this trouble I will stick with HID's. I like the sharp cutoff given by the projectors. I thought LED's would be cost effective but see they really are not

I think they are cost effective when I compare the price of a quality HID projectors and the time it takes to pull the headlamp assembly, put it in the oven. part it, mod the holes, reassemble and reinstall the headlamp assembly.

I'm not worried about cut off if these LED units have been designed specifically for H7/H4 applications. What I've seen when I examined the H4 assembly was that there are 2 separate Cree LED in the H4 unit that radiate for hi or lo beam.

One radiates upward in the reflector so that the light is projected in a downward direction out of the headlamp assembly. When the hi beam is activated the down facing Cree is lit, emitting light upward from the reflector.
Since this will likely behave as the H4 I would say the low beam mode will have to be switched off as it would be done with the OEM halogen H4 if you were to use the low beam.

With the wattage saving using the Cree LED there is another benefit for the FZ6 owner who is using heated grip etc.

If I can buy them at the sale price which is $59 USD each, they are certainly cost effective for me on the SV1000s. I use two H4 in my headlamp assembly.. So again if they perform as expected I think they will be a great alternative upgrade for me and others.

I hope I will have them in hand this coming weekend and I will give a report on them.

I agree the HID projectors are the best but they don't negate the idea of using a well designed LED especially if they're basically plug n play.

 

[ErikNYC]

I think they are cost effective when I compare the price of a quality HID projectors and the time it takes to pull the headlamp assembly, put it in the oven. part it, mod the holes, reassemble and reinstall the headlamp assembly.

I'm not worried about cut off if these LED units have been designed specifically for H7/H4 applications. What I've seen when I examined the H4 assembly was that there are 2 separate Cree LED in the H4 unit that radiate for hi or lo beam.

One radiates upward in the reflector so that the light is projected in a downward direction out of the headlamp assembly. When the hi beam is activated the down facing Cree is lit, emitting light upward from the reflector.
Since this will likely behave as the H4 I would say the low beam mode will have to be switched off as it would be done with the OEM halogen H4 if you were to use the low beam.

With the wattage saving using the Cree LED there is another benefit for the FZ6 owner who is using heated grip etc.

If I can buy them at the sale price which is $59 USD each, they are certainly cost effective for me on the SV1000s. I use two H4 in my headlamp assembly.. So again if they perform as expected I think they will be a great alternative upgrade for me and others.

I hope I will have them in hand this coming weekend and I will give a report on them.

I agree the HID projectors are the best but they don't negate the idea of using a well designed LED especially if they're basically plug n play.

I totally agree.

Since my riding season is pretty much over, I plan to buy a set of led headlights next Spring. I hope by then prices go down, and new edition will be released.

 

[Marcin]

How will the voltage regulator behave? LEDs mean less power required so won't the VR need to change more energy into heat?

 

[FinalImpact]

How will the voltage regulator behave? LEDs mean less power required so won't the VR need to change more energy into heat?

I believe you are correct and the question is valid. I'm not sure there will be a clear answer tho!

Lets wait and see.

Here are some actual current measurements using H1 55 Watt bulb and Morimoto 3Five Watt. They claim 35W but I saw 40w. Here -> 3Five Current measurements = 40 Watts
Ignore the title ONCE IN the THREAD as its in error... The current and voltage can vary and unlike bulb the HID ballast draws 40 watts. I have no idea what the new LED hardware will do.

 

[Motogiro]

How will the voltage regulator behave? LEDs mean less power required so won't the VR need to change more energy into heat?

I believe you are correct and the question is valid. I'm not sure there will be a clear answer tho!

Lets wait and see.

Here are some actual current measurements using H1 55 Watt bulb and Morimoto 3Five Watt. They claim 35W but I saw 40w. Here -> 3Five Current measurements = 40 Watts
Ignore the title ONCE IN the THREAD as its in error... The current and voltage can vary and unlike bulb the HID ballast draws 40 watts. I have no idea what the new LED hardware will do.

If you're battery is fully charged then the R/R will be actively shunting. So if you have 55 watt halogens running and your battery is topped off you'll be shunting. With the Cree LED headlamp you'll just be shunting sooner.

I would imagine the FZ6 R/R should be able to continuously operate if all the lights were out. I've never heard of a R/R failure because a 55 watt H7 blew out. In the case of the FZ6 when you replace the H7 55 watt halogen with a 25 watt Cree there would be an extra 30 watts. If you run the H4 and H7 Cree LEDs your current usage will be 50 watts which will be within 5 watts of running the single H7 OEM halogen.

I don't see where there will be a problem with the shunt regulation but there will be better headroom for other accessories.