Changing coolant

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Hmm, I used peak global gold and never had a problems, pulled the puke tank and the radiator hose, of course I change mine every year before winter. I fill it up, let it idle till the fan kicks on, let it cool, and fill if needed. Make sure there are no leaks.

After I drain and re-fill (I do use the drain plug, no leaks, original washer), top off the tank, I go for a ride (I just want to make sure there's no air trapped in the system), get it to temp, then go home and let it cool down.

Once cool, I top off the tank and radiator if needed..

Just pulling the hose should be fine, especially since your doing yearly.. :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Just in case anyone makes the same mistake of not changing the crush washer and getting a small leak. Left the rad cap on and only a couple drops of coolant came out with the drain bolt.

Thanks Scott!

For the most part, if you invert the washer from its original direction it is more prone to leak if reused as its been partially deformed. So, look closely at the patterns on both sides of the washer, the bolts cap and the block. Often times the pattern of WHO left what mark can easily be determined so its original orientation can be restored (less likely to leak).

However, even a NEW washer (banjo fittings w/washers mainly) can seep if not seated properly. I seat them once to pressure, back them off and seat them again. Because copper is so soft, it deforms and fills in the voids between mismatched surface textures. I highly recommend double seating all soft washer to prevent them from seeping. Especially on brake hoses with copper or aluminum washers.


EDIT: Why are we "CHANTING COOLANT" lol

 

[FZ09Bandit]

Coooooooooolllllllllllaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnntttttt......
Cccccccccccooooooollllllllaaaaaaaannnnnnntttttt.....

LOL.

Never had a crush washer leak. I will however replace mine often because I seem to lose it.
.

 

[FZ09Bandit]

After I drain and re-fill (I do use the drain plug, no leaks, original washer), top off the tank, I go for a ride (I just want to make sure there's no air trapped in the system), get it to temp, then go home and let it cool down.

Once cool, I top off the tank and radiator if needed..

Just pulling the hose should be fine, especially since your doing yearly.. :thumbup:

Yeah, it's easier and a piece of mind is good.

 

[Eldberg]

Oops. Time for some humble pie. I said I could account for every bolt/screw in the fairing chart; I was wrong. Finally identified where the little screws go. There is a small hole right on the back of where the mirror stems are attached to the upper fairing. That was it. Red ring in the picture. Unfortinately I am now missing the thingy that one of them screws into (blue ring).

Thanks all. Finally nearly done...

 

[Marthy]

After I drain and re-fill (I do use the drain plug, no leaks, original washer), top off the tank, I go for a ride (I just want to make sure there's no air trapped in the system), get it to temp, then go home and let it cool down.

Once cool, I top off the tank and radiator if needed..

Just pulling the hose should be fine, especially since your doing yearly.. :thumbup:

Ah, there's a drain on the coolant? I pull the hose too, never event bother looking for a drain plug

I just change mine few days ago... was starting to run a bit hot, hope it fix the problem. I fill it up and let the bike run for a while with the cap open. Even gave it a bit of throttle to circulate the fluid. It keep bubbling until it reach 200+ and keep topping the fluid to the top. I let it ran until the fan kick in and few more minutes to make sure there was no air in the system. The I cap it and turn the bike off.

Make sure you check the level in the puke tank too.

 

[7UPyours]

Re: Chanting coolant

If you keep the radiator cap on, and borrow another's finger (the proverbial finger into the leaking dam), you should be able to swap out the washer without loosing maybe 1/2 cup of coolant..

With the radiator cap off, that thing will piss like a race horse...:thumbup:

A slight dab of sealer on the washer/threads wouldn't hurt either.

that works, just make sure you didn't just come back from a long ride :Flash::Flash:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re: Chanting coolant

that works, just make sure you didn't just come back from a long ride :Flash::Flash:

If you change your coolant right after a long hot ride, you need to sell ALL YOUR TOOLS....:spank:

 

[mave2911]

Jeez, didn't know about the chain tension.

Loosen that chain up ASAP to 2". Its causing undue, wear and tear to the chain, front transmission bearing and especially the rear sprocket hub bearing.

Your still getting noise because that chain is STILL way too tight!! You should have enough tools in your tool kit to loosen it.

No need to panic, my good sir, I have not ridden it since I got home from the shop and checked it - I'm not going to do any work to it, as I am getting it reviewed by another shop so I can prove the mistakes.

or what your giving those idiots to "FIX" you bikes (their causing more damage), you could easily buy the tools and do these basic adjustments yourself. Most of them are addressed in the owners manual, the rest in the shop manual. PM me if you need assistance.

No assistance required in this instance, thank you - I usually do all the wrenching on my bikes - but as the bike was in for an insurance repair, I got them to do a bit of work too. (boy, that was a mistake!)

The coolant change, takes one 8mm wrench/or socket and some coolant (pre-mixed is even easier, maybe 1/3 a gallon?) and about 20 minutes, $15.00 tops... And you know what's in there..

No arguments there!

Note. I just re-read post #18 (your post), that its a Kawasaki dealer that did the repairs/adjustment. As noted in other threads AND IN YOUR OWNERS MANUAL, 1.75" -2" is the chain slack for the FZ (which seems like alot) and is considerably more than MOST bikes. If the guy that orked on your bike IS a Yamaha TECH, shame on him...

That it why I spoke to the 'Yamaha Factory Trained' tech, and TOLD him specifically the correct chain tension seems loose, but due to the relationship of the swingarm pivot to the front sprocket, it must be set at 45mm MINIMUM. (1.77" - straight from the service manual)

I am fastidious about my bikes - which is why if I don't do it, or see it done, I always check work performed, and thus, found the problems. If I didn't, who knows what other problems may have been caused!

The insurance company has contracted another repairer to fix the issues, and now they know I will check - everything, no doubt it'll be done to standard (and satisfaction!)

Cheers,
Rick

 

[Eldberg]

This is a COOLANT!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Along the same lines as this thread, but I just got my bike back from the repairer (after an unfortunate lowside) and whilst it was there, I got them to do a 40000km service.

I noticed when looking at the consumables receipt, they used Motul Inugel Extra coolant. A quick google shows that is a car coolant.

Now, please forgive my memory, but I remember something about the particle size in some coolants (or something) is abrasive to the water pump, but after a quick search, I can't find it.

Can someone please remind me of of specific nature of this coolant, so I can check whether they've used the wrong type? (I remember because the Tectaloy Extra Cool I use in my car is incompatible)

Cheers,
Rick

P.S. The repairer is a Kawasaki dealer, so if this Motul Inugel is incompatible, please supply a source/service manual reference, so I can go back in and tell them....

What was the end result of this product being used in the bike?

 

[FrozenBiker]

Has everyone been able to fill the coolant to the 2.11 qt specified?
After draining, two rounds of distilled water flush, and refilling,
the bike wasn't too thirsty.. It only wanted 1.8 ('ish) qt.

I should have measured the [drained] amount after each flush :ban:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Has everyone been able to fill the coolant to the 2.11 qt specified?
After draining, two rounds of distilled water flush, and refilling,
the bike wasn't too thirsty.. It only wanted 1.8 ('ish) qt.

I should have measured the [drained] amount after each flush :ban:

Heck, I spill that much on the floor just changing it:thumbup:.

As long as your topped off, your fine...

 

[Silvia6]

Hello everybody!

I have a 2004 FZ6 S and I recently changed the coolant (after cleaning the installation). All went well but it seems that I am stuck at the final step, which is putting back the radiator cap. I cannot manage to do that. The radiator cap has a screw and a metal thingy (a safety of some sort).

Is there a trick I should know? Usually, you push and turn the cap clockwise, and all done! But with the metal thingy it is pretty difficult to do that. Do I screw the metal thingy first and then try to put the radiator cap back on or do I put the radiator cap first and then try to place the metal thingy under the radiator cap?

Did you have any trouble with putting back the radiator cap?

 

[greg]

worth mentioning that if you are too cheap, or for whatever reason which to re-use the copper washer, then you can just re-anneal it. Heat it up with a blow torch until it is cherry red, and then let it cool down. This will soften it and it should be good to go again :thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Hello everybody!

I have a 2004 FZ6 S and I recently changed the coolant (after cleaning the installation). All went well but it seems that I am stuck at the final step, which is putting back the radiator cap. I cannot manage to do that. The radiator cap has a screw and a metal thingy (a safety of some sort).

Is there a trick I should know? Usually, you push and turn the cap clockwise, and all done! But with the metal thingy it is pretty difficult to do that. Do I screw the metal thingy first and then try to put the radiator cap back on or do I put the radiator cap first and then try to place the metal thingy under the radiator cap?

Did you have any trouble with putting back the radiator cap?

To reinstall the cap, keep the locking assembly OFF.

Put it on normally, then the locking bolt goes on the right side, from the TOP, the locking piece from underneath, with the curved steel facing up. Thread in the bolt, snug. Done. You could ride the bike without it, its just to keep someone from easily screwing with it, loosening it, etc.

After doing mine, I ride it, get it to temp, let it cool down and re-check all levels, (in the radiator, and in the overflow tank)

 

[Silvia6]

To reinstall the cap, keep the locking assembly OFF.

Put it on normally, then the locking bolt goes on the right side, from the TOP, the locking piece from underneath, with the curved steel facing up. Thread in the bolt, snug. Done. You could ride the bike without it, its just to keep someone from easily screwing with it, loosening it, etc.

After doing mine, I ride it, get it to temp, let it cool down and re-check all levels, (in the radiator, and in the overflow tank)

Thank you so much for the information!