Chain Bouncing after a 850 mile ride.

[FinalImpact]

Petroleum base vs synthetics like teflon.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks guys for requesting that pic :bow: Might could have saved my life.

So when you mention real petroleum ??? Sorry real newb here, but catching on fast.

I'm thinking replace the chain just to be safe. Don't want to save a few bucks and have a bigger issue down the road.

I'll be in Fort Meyers next week. Wanna grab a brew?

Real lube as in no wax. Yamaha allows for 30wt engine oil but that's a bit messy, tends to fling off BUT
will soak in and help.

This Honda Pro-line is what I use with no fling on the wheel, lasts pretty long and not terribly expensive:
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/771/-/843702/Pro-Honda-Chain-Lube-With-White-Graphite-15-oz.

White graphite, per the manufacturer (Yes, I called), is preferred for the street over teflon, lasts longer.


From what I can see, I would replace that chain, period. Exam the sprockets for wear/hooking.
Probably a good time to replace as well...

The city of FM is where I retired from. I'm across the river in Cape Coral. Its rainy season down here so after lunch time,
its cloudy, muggy and going to rain usually by 2P but I'm game (prefer lunch)...

You bringing the bike down?

 

[linus]

Thanks I'll switch my product. I was using this

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/771/3224/Maxima-Chain-Wax

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks I'll switch my product. I was using this

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/771/3224/Maxima-Chain-Wax

I tried that EXACT chain wax years ago (on my KLR) and it had rusty links shortly there after too. The chain has to be warm to apply (PIA).

I pitched that can, no wax (at least on a chain) for me... I do use Maxima's chain cleaner(works great), went thru many different
products of chain lube before settling on the Honda stuff...

 

[raja777m]

I got 2 new videos for you guys:
https://youtu.be/ZgCqlOJsDoo
https://youtu.be/VC2ZGWPR_T0

I did not receive my chain cleaning brush yet, so, used some plastic scrubbing brush, with car wash soap and some sponge, with soap.

I didn't not open the front cover, as the weather is unpredictable now and don't know when it will rain.
Lately, I started lubing the rear bearing, don't know whether it is necessary or not, did the same with front too.
I don't have a garage, as of now.
But will clean in the front sprocket in a few days.

 

[kenh]

I got 2 new videos for you guys:
https://youtu.be/ZgCqlOJsDoo
https://youtu.be/VC2ZGWPR_T0
Should be available in 1080p by 9:20pm EST.

I didn't not open the front cover, as the weather is unpredictable now and don't know when it will rain.
Lately, I started lubing the rear bearing, don't know whether it is necessary or not, did the same with front too.
I don't have a garage, as of now.
But will clean in the front sprocket in a few days.

FWIW, you can't really lube the bearings in the manner that you are showing. On each side of the bearing (front and rear) are aluminum collars that the axles fit through. I too needed to change my tires this season so I removed the wheels and took them to my dealer and had them mount the tires that I purchased. This provided me with the opportunity to understand the 6 a little more and more importantly, once things are disassembled, this provides an excellent opportunity to clean and lubricate. Per the manual, soap based lithium grease is needed around the axle and bearing surfaces during reassembly. I do subscribe to the policy of periodically checking the slack and warming the chain during a 15-20 minutes ride and then lubing it. This will minimize fling, however it is most effective when the chain and sprockets are clean and dry. :thumbup:

 

[raja777m]

FWIW, you can't really lube the bearings in the manner that you are showing. On each side of the bearing (front and rear) are aluminum collars that the axles fit through. I too needed to change my tires this season so I removed the wheels and took them to my dealer and had them mount the tires that I purchased. This provided me with the opportunity to understand the 6 a little more and more importantly, once things are disassembled, this provides an excellent opportunity to clean and lubricate. Per the manual, soap based lithium grease is needed around the axle and bearing surfaces during reassembly. I do subscribe to the policy of periodically checking the slack and warming the chain during a 15-20 minutes ride and then lubing it. This will minimize fling, however it is most effective when the chain and sprockets are clean and dry. :thumbup:

Thanks for the info.
I'm getting my rear will be changed tomorrow (probably), will get the bearings cleaned and lubed, along with the axle.
I used a dry cloth to remove excess water and ran the bike for a few mins on center stand, after a slow ride around the apartment parking lot.
For video purposes, I did lube it again and removed all the excess oil.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Chain looks good!

As noted above, spraying lube on the axle does nothing but attract dirt. The bearing seals keeps crap out.
Also plus 1 on lubing a dry chain. A weed eater blower electric or gas works well blowing the water off the chain (and bike as well!)
or an air compressor but NOT set too strong.

What I do is fold up some card board, (long and skinny), and put it atop the swing arm, under the chain at the swing arm bolt (just to catch excess run off)
and a rag jambed in between the chain and cardboard.

Put a 90 degree bend in your straw and shorten it up(as it will deflect when the button is pushed).
Now the straw is spraying evenly from above the chain, all over the chain.

(In your video, it didn't appear the inner most o-rings got much if any lube, I may be wrong)

Now I'll spray, with the bent tube, directly from the top (basically straight down now) lubing both sides of the O rings
and side plates. I'll then do exactly the same on the BOTTOM RUN.

All this is done, simply spinning by hand, (I won't lube with the engine in gear, way too easy to get hurt).

Spraying at the rear sprocket/chain is really also useless except for attracting dirt.

Wipe off the excess lube, remove cardboard/rag. Good to go and the chain received lube on ALL the o-rings, etc.

 

[raja777m]

Chain looks good!

As noted above, spraying lube on the axle does nothing but attract dirt. The bearing seals keeps crap out.
Also plus 1 on lubing a dry chain. A weed eater blower electric or gas works well blowing the water off the chain (and bike as well!)
or an air compressor but NOT set too strong.

What I do is fold up some card board, (long and skinny), and put it atop the swing arm, under the chain at the swing arm bolt (just to catch excess run off)
and a rag jambed in between the chain and cardboard.

Put a 90 degree bend in your straw and shorten it up(as it will deflect when the button is pushed).
Now the straw is spraying evenly from above the chain, all over the chain.

(In your video, it didn't appear the inner most o-rings got much if any lube, I may be wrong)

Now I'll spray, with the bent tube, directly from the top (basically straight down now) lubing both sides of the O rings
and side plates. I'll then do exactly the same on the BOTTOM RUN.

All this is done, simply spinning by hand, (I won't lube with the engine in gear, way too easy to get hurt).

Spraying at the rear sprocket/chain is really also useless except for attracting dirt.

Wipe off the excess lube, remove cardboard/rag. Good to go and the chain received lube on ALL the o-rings, etc.

1. Yes, removed excess lube, off video, using the rag.
2. Smart move with cardboard (plenty of them lying around), I prefer that, than a rag, as it can get into the chain, but as you said, turning wheel by hand, so, I can use rag too
3. I saw the lube went good on the o-rings, and forecast has a couple more rains for this week, so, I'll do multiple sessions even though not a lot of miles, time to buy a motorcycle cover, I guess.
4. I used to do it by hand, last year, in the beginning, but the force of spray can is much more, than I'm wasting and not doing even job, IMO; So, started lubing on idle/first gear. I'll go back to hand.
5. I learned lubing rear sprocket because of "Scottoiler oil system", but I will stop doing that too.
I remember watching video long back, you can skip to the end(14:46):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgPpLKCUlbA

Thanks Scott, you're awesome as always.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If it just rains and your not riding in the rain, there's no reason to re-lube it...


Ok, that video is where you learned that. Yes, you are lubing the outer o-rings doing that, BUT what about the inside o-rings/side plates?

IMO, simply lubing evenly from the direct top run (with then bent hose) and the bottom run under the swing arm, your getting ALL of the chain.

Notice he doesn't have the wand bent at all? Is the same amount, or enough lube making it to the inside/all of the chain? I'm not sure it is, but then I'm admittedly, very anal about this kind of stuff. I know mine is evenly and fully applied, I can literally see it..

**Something I forgot to mention, in the 90 degree, shortened, bent hose, I put several layers of heat shrink over the tube to make it hold its 90 degree's(and not deflect).

I re-use THAT HOSE with the next can, etc.

Shortening that hose so its just long enough to reach everything, does help a bunch to keep it from deflecting too..

 

[raja777m]

If it just rains and your not riding in the rain, there's no reason to re-lube it...


Ok, that video is where you learned that. Yes, you are lubing the outer o-rings doing that, BUT what about the inside o-rings/side plates?

IMO, simply lubing evenly from the direct top run (with then bent hose) and the bottom run under the swing arm, your getting ALL of the chain.

Notice he doesn't have the wand bent at all? Is the same amount, or enough lube making it to the inside/all of the chain? I'm not sure it is, but then I'm admittedly, very anal about this kind of stuff. I know mine is evenly and fully applied, I can literally see it..

**Something I forgot to mention, in the 90 degree, shortened, bent hose, I put several layers of heat shrink over the tube to make it hold its 90 degree's(and not deflect).

I re-use THAT HOSE with the next can, etc.

Shortening that hose so its just long enough to reach everything, does help a bunch to keep it from deflecting too..

I ride rain or shine, currently don't own another vehicle.

I got the rear tire changed, and the guy is amazed when I said 1.77-2.77" not 1". I showed him the print out manual I took for that page.
He put close to 2", measured with a tape to make sure.

He applied grease to the rod between the two bearings.

Regarding vibes, I don't feel vibes at all, when I close the clutch, irrespective of speed.
When I engage, I feel very slight on the foot pegs. To te torque all engine mount bolts, he asked 30 mins of labor, I.e 40$+ tax.

ill be ordering the spark plugs this week, to change then in Next few miles, currently 17k miles on stock.

added them at around 6000 and replaced at 16800.






on the sides, I see the cuts are like up and down, not sure how to explain, but when I asked the guy at the shop, he said, it is because your rear suspension is not rebounding enough, causing that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAufW4JLmWE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXV0hL7JtR8

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I couldn't open the first link.

Are you talking about some cupping on the edge of the tread?
I didn't see any cuts..

Good for you bringing that page and getting the 2" adjustment...

Looks like you got the most out of your tires.

A bit steep, 1/2 hour to run the torques wrench around several bolts that literally doesn't take 6-7 minutes maybe???
That's half the price of an average, new torque wrench. Oh well, something to consider later..

 

[raja777m]

I couldn't open the first link.

Are you talking about some cupping on the edge of the tread?
I didn't see any cuts..

Good for you bringing that page and getting the 2" adjustment...

Looks like you got the most out of your tires.

A bite steep, 1/2 hour to run the torques wrench around several bolts that literally doesn't take 6-7 minutes maybe???
That's half the price of an average, new torque wrench. Oh well, something to consider later..

You know what, I can buy one and leave at Linus's place, anyway, 4 FZ6s can use the same tool
Here is the URL for the first one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAufW4JLmWE

And in the second video, I asked the question and explained about the issue and the guy said to check the rear suspension.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXV0hL7JtR8
at 00:24 into the video.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ok, the second video is better.

Every tire I've replaced / worn out, has cupping (which is what you have, its not cut), especially on the
treads that go "across" the tire, not with the tire direction (if that make sense).

The more treads you have on a tire, the more there is to cup.

To my knowledge, its normal.

Now if you had low miles on that tire, and had it under inflated or over inflated, its not going to wear evenly or normally even thou its a two compound tire(harder in the middle than the sides). The wear on your tire is what I'd expect to see down here, no where near the twisties you have up there..

For you, riding in the rain (as need be), the 4, with the better wet riding performance IMO, is the way to go.
I currently have a PR 2 on the front and a PR3 on the rear(picked up a "key" on my last, rear PR2 and ruined it).

When the 3 wears out, I'm going back to a PR2 on the rear as it has less horizontal ribs(and less cupping when more worn).
The PR2 did work very well for me in the rain (riding appropriately).

 

[raja777m]

Ok, the second video is better.

Every tire I've replaced / worn out, has cupping (which is what you have, its not cut), especially on the
treads that go "across" the tire, not with the tire direction (if that make sense).

The more treads you have on a tire, the more there is to cup.

To my knowledge, its normal.

Now if you had low miles on that tire, and had it under inflated or over inflated, its not going to wear evenly or normally even thou its a two compound tire(harder in the middle than the sides). The wear on your tire is what I'd expect to see down here, no where near the twisties you have up there..

For you, riding in the rain (as need be), the 4, with the better wet riding performance IMO, is the way to go.
I currently have a PR 2 on the front and a PR3 on the rear(picked up a "key" on my last, rear PR2 and ruined it).

When the 3 wears out, I'm going back to a PR2 on the rear as it has less horizontal ribs(and less cupping when more worn).
The PR2 did work very well for me in the rain (riding appropriately).

Ya, I found PR4 for 142$ after cashbacks and other coupons from 2wheel.com, so, I went with it.
ebay, PR3 for 140$, so, I went with same model again.
I check tire pressure atleast once a week/1000miles max, following the sticker on the swingarm.

 

[raja777m]

I tried uploading the images, but it error'd out.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bzj_F7fR53q6OFVzOU1VY2xQeFk&usp=sharing

I found lots of dirt under behind the front sprocket cover, luckily the sprocket itself is clean, somewhat.
So, cleaned it, lubed it and lubed the chain, again, after yesterday's rain..!

Still waiting on my waterproof motorcycle cover to arrive..!

Just checked the chain on first gear/idle and it is not that bouncy, compared to earlier..!

Thank you all for the information and help.

 

[FinalImpact]

I didnt watch video but the techbis correct about damping rates. Too much or to little rebound damping changes which way the tires cup. As in, the leading or trailing edge that flares up.

The stock FZ is so soft it cups a bit. But the fact that you haven't worn off that section of tread really says its moot point if you are ok with how it rides!

Anyways - on the S2 a tire change is painless as you don't have to mess with the adjusters so Im suprirzed he was messing with that. But you got it sorted out! Perfect!

 

[raja777m]

https://www.facebook.com/Superbikes247/videos/1764013820485546/
I may have to train my dog like this, to help me when I lube the chain