Bike dies as tho the kill switch was hit

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You sound quite defensive; I certainly wasn't suggesting otherwise. I was simply trying to find him some in-person assistance.

Lighten up. No one's pissing in anyone's wheaties, here. :thumbup:

Just stating facts.. Seen this issue (with the kill switch), literally dozens of times..

Once you know some of the members here, with time, and their strong points (along with their knowledge), you'll find thery'll chime in wthout assistance.

Don't care for Wheaties either..



[MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION], [MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION]

 

[chunkygoat]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7tRPYC6cJ8]Fz6 tach issues - YouTube[/ame]


I had the exact same issue. The bike would shut off, but the tach would appear to reset as if the killswitch was quickly thrown off then on. This began occurring once here, once again next week. Fast forward a month, and it got to the point where the bike was stalling out consistently, ever ride.

Tracking it down, it was an intermittent connection to the + terminal of the battery. It was bolted down, but the connection from the wire to the connector was worn and not providing full contact for continuity. As the RPM's of the motor would rise, the vibrations literally cause the connection to open and close and voltage would not make it to the tach.

It ended up being as simple as stripping the wire and soldering it to the connector.

I would absolutely check your connections to the bagttery before modifying your killswitch.

 

[Sawblade]

It was probably your post I was thinking of. Do you still have pictures of your procedure or link (a link would be preferred to save for later reference)? :thumbup:

Sorry, I didn't take pictures. If I recall correctly, once you take the screws out of the bottom of the throttle housing and open it up, there's 1 or 2 small screws holding that switch assembly in place. Take them out and you'll be able to reach the contacts for the switch to clean.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sorry, I didn't take pictures. If I recall correctly, once you take the screws out of the bottom of the throttle housing and open it up, there's 1 or 2 small screws holding that switch assembly in place. Take them out and you'll be able to reach the contacts for the switch to clean.

Whoever it was, took at least one pic. The contacts were pretty nasty. It was the first post I've seen of actually fixing / cleaning the switch.

I've never had to have mine apart, but yes, itsd a pretty simple switch as long as you don't crack anything..

Thanks

 

[FinalImpact]

Whoever it was, took at least one pic. The contacts were pretty nasty. It was the first post I've seen of actually fixing / cleaning the switch.

I've never had to have mine apart, but yes, itsd a pretty simple switch as long as you don't crack anything..

Thanks

It's down in the thread a bit deeper (link Nelly provided), Adam showing the contacts before and after cleaning. http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/48311-run-switch-faulty.html#post571569

It seems to be moot point until the source is found. Again, don't hesitate to steer the bars while at idle and cycle the forks up and down to see if it cuts out. It seems everything is suspect until something is found.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks FI,

Got it saved.

 

[Flyinace1]

Monday is my day off so I'll start pulling things open and start testing connections. I have a very limited set of tools and nothing for electrics so we'll see how far I get. I'm hoping it's something stupid simple.

I did already try a simple test of the bars/forks, side stand and cutoff switch. When I tested the bars and forks by moving them it stayed on. Jiggling the kill switch didn't produce anything either. The side stand switch worked flawlessly

Sent from my HTC One V using Tapatalk

 

[Nelly]

When will these companies start using properly designed circuits...

The 'Strom was built with similarly poor choices.

When will these companies start using properly designed circuits...

The 'Strom was built with similarly poor choices.

I agree, poor quality switch. All my other bikes never had a switch issue.

Nelly

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Something not posted (or I missed it),

When the engine stalls/cuts out, are you loosing the dash board, as if you TURNED THE KEY OFF, or is that staying working?

A faulty "red kill switch would simply kill the engine, not the dash. A bad connection (where the kill switch plugs into the main harness) could kill the engine too (but the dash still works)

If your loosing power to the entire bike (as if turning off the key), it'd point towards battery connections, possible battery internal short, ignition switch, potentially bad main fuse, etc.

Good luck..

 

[Motogiro]

Something not posted (or I missed it),

When the engine stalls/cuts out, are you loosing the dash board, as if you TURNED THE KEY OFF, or is that staying working?

A faulty "red kill switch would simply kill the engine, not the dash. A bad connection (where the kill switch plugs into the main harness) could kill the engine too (but the dash still works)

If your loosing power to the entire bike (as if turning off the key), it'd point towards battery connections, possible battery internal short, ignition switch, potentially bad main fuse, etc.

Good luck..

This ^^^^^ would also give you a great clue as to where the problem was. And Geez! I just looked at the OP's IP and I was through that area 2 days ago! Still, if I get up in that area soon I'll ping the OP to see if I can get to his spot and help. I'll send the OP my mobile number for some 1 on 1 if needed.

 

[Flyinace1]

This ^^^^^ would also give you a great clue as to where the problem was. And Geez! I just looked at the OP's IP and I was through that area 2 days ago! Still, if I get up in that area soon I'll ping the OP to see if I can get to his spot and help. I'll send the OP my mobile number for some 1 on 1 if needed.

Awesome, I'd appreciate that. I just took off the switch and the contacts were pretty dirty and 1 has what seems to be a slight burn mark. I guess that's what I get for using it all the time
View attachment 52302View attachment 52303

Sent from my HTC One V using Tapatalk

 

[Flyinace1]

While I have it apart I'll probably take off the tank and check some connections. I also realized that the right grip is kinda loose, Idk if it's supposed to be like that or not.
And when I put the switch back together should I put grease on the bearing? If so will wheel bearing grease work? Or should I go pick something else up?

Thanx guys

Sent from my HTC One V using Tapatalk

 

[Flyinace1]

Something not posted (or I missed it),

When the engine stalls/cuts out, are you loosing the dash board, as if you TURNED THE KEY OFF, or is that staying working?

A faulty "red kill switch would simply kill the engine, not the dash. A bad connection (where the kill switch plugs into the main harness) could kill the engine too (but the dash still works)

If your loosing power to the entire bike (as if turning off the key), it'd point towards battery connections, possible battery internal short, ignition switch, potentially bad main fuse, etc.

Good luck..

I don't think the dash has every shut off during the episodes, but I wasn't paying that much attention. I know it was pretty much ready to start up as soon as it would quit, so probably not.

Sent from my HTC One V using Tapatalk

 

[Motogiro]

There is a grease that is better to use. It's called dielectric grease and is available at all automotive parts stores. It will also keep out future moisture that seems to help foul up the FZ6 killswitch.

Sent from Moto's Droid using Tapatalk 2 :mikebike:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Those contacts don't look bad at all (If that's before cleaning) but a good cleaning wouldn't hurt.

When you out test riding again, should it die, pay attention to the dash, lights etc, it'll definitly help narrow down the issue if it continues..

 

[Flyinace1]

Those contacts don't look bad at all (If that's before cleaning) but a good cleaning wouldn't hurt.

When you out test riding again, should it die, pay attention to the dash, lights etc, it'll definitly help narrow down the issue if it continues..

That was after cleaning

Sent from my HTC One V using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That was after cleaning

Sent from my HTC One V using Tapatalk

How bad before cleaning?? Crappy contacts/ bunch of arcing/ black???

(they look very good now)

 

[Flyinace1]

Lots of black and dirty. I cleaned them off with a cloth & an eraser. I don't know if it's fixed tho

Sent from my HTC One V using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I suspect you'll be good. It doesn't take much in that switch to stop the bike...

Please post your final findings...:thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

There is a grease that is better to use. It's called dielectric grease and is available at all automotive parts stores. It will also keep out future moisture that seems to help foul up the FZ6 killswitch.

Sent from Moto's Droid using Tapatalk 2 :mikebike:

Do read the label close tho! A friend recently grabbed "dielectric grease" and brought back some "conductive" grease. I forgot what is in it, but it is NOT what you want!

Likewise: those look pretty fair!