Changing coolant

mave2911 said:
Thank you gentlemen. Looking more into it (I'm at work, at the moment), reminds me it is the silicates in some coolants (the particle size I referred to) that is the problem.

Now to ascertain whether the Inugel is a silicate based coolant!

Cheers,
Rick
Click to expand...

Go to Motuls web site, it has all the spec's there...
 
TownsendsFJR1300 said:
Go to Motuls web site, it has all the spec's there...
Click to expand...

Already done, thank you.

I have edited the post above your latest reply.

Now I just need to find where it specifically states that a non-silica based coolant must be used, preferably in the service manual.

THIS is why I usually do all the work myself!

Cheers,
Rick
 
Can anyone find a reference in the FZ6 Service Manual, or on an official Yamaha site to say that silica based coolants must not be used please?

I'm at work, at the moment, and don't have access to the service manual.

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,
Rick
 
mave2911 said:
Can anyone find a reference in the FZ6 Service Manual, or on an official Yamaha site to say that silica based coolants must not be used please?

I'm at work, at the moment, and don't have access to the service manual.

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,
Rick
Click to expand...

In the 07-09 Yamaha shop manual, page 3-19, it also states the following:

Recommended antifreeze
High-quality ethylene glycol
antifreeze containing corrosion
inhibitors for aluminum engines
Mixing ratio
1:1 (antifreeze:water)
Radiator capacity (including all
routes)
2.00 L (2.11 US qt) (1.76
Imp.qt)
Coolant reservoir capacity (up
to the maximum level mark)
0.25 L (0.26 US qt) (0.22

It doesn't mention anything else...
 
I used a turkey baster. Really easy job. And i didn't know where to start. :rockon::rockon:I used the haynes manual though.
 
Thanks all who have contributed. I emptied the reservoir with a 200 ml horse syringe and a piece of rubber tube. Rinsed the system with distilled water, filled with red long-life ethylene glycol. Reassembled the bike and test rode it today after winter storage. Worked perfect.

Only problem is that I got two screws left over, I don't know where they're supposed to go. I had removed the windscreen and the upper side fairings, and the battery. The screws are black, 13 mm long, about 3 mm thick, flat head ø6 mm phillips. Anyone have a clue?

Åke
 
Uh, you put batter bolts in? Also their is a bolt under the inner fairings that holds the little corner piece flush to the main inner fairing I'd check those
 
Last edited:
So when i have been changing coolants i have always just taken the hose off at the base of the block instead of doing the drainage bolts, this is on cars and bikes. Did this on the fz and the first flush came out clear enough, is there any downside to this that i am missing?
 
Thanks Townsend for the pic. I can account for every bolt and screw that's in it and the two left-overs are not in it. They must come from somewhere else. I will simply have to take the bike to the workshop and ask an expert. Or wait until something falls off... :)

Åke
 
Ben sIII said:
So when i have been changing coolants i have always just taken the hose off at the base of the block instead of doing the drainage bolts, this is on cars and bikes. Did this on the fz and the first flush came out clear enough, is there any downside to this that i am missing?
Click to expand...

You might be leaving a cup or two of coolant as the drain plug is the lowest part of the system but if your changing it as you should, I wouldn't worry about it (and your not screwing with a leaky drain washer). The amount is minimal I would suspect.

If you found any visable debris in the system (crud),or it hadn't been done in years, I'd likely pull the drain plug as that crap will tend to settle at the lowest point, near the pump/impeller and flush accordingly.

Engine oil, I'm very anal about getting every drop of old oil feasible out of the engine when doing an oil change.
 
Eldberg said:
Thanks Townsend for the pic. I can account for every bolt and screw that's in it and the two left-overs are not in it. They must come from somewhere else. I will simply have to take the bike to the workshop and ask an expert. Or wait until something falls off... :)

Åke
Click to expand...

haha. I actually have 2 small screws from when I took my fairings apart 5 years ago. Never has anything come loose but I never could figure out where they went either! :BLAA:
 
Eldberg said:
Thanks Townsend for the pic. I can account for every bolt and screw that's in it and the two left-overs are not in it. They must come from somewhere else. I will simply have to take the bike to the workshop and ask an expert. Or wait until something falls off... :)

Åke
Click to expand...

I certainly wouldn't bring it to a shop, they'll likely pitch them and charge you for it. If it was me, I'd take the bike back aprt to the point that you had it, then check everything that off, for a place for two screws... You'll find it if you look hard enough..

If you can post a pic or two, next to a ruler (for reference) may help..:thumbup:
 
Re: Chanting coolant

TownsendsFJR1300 said:
If you keep the radiator cap on, and borrow another's finger (the proverbial finger into the leaking dam), you should be able to swap out the washer without loosing maybe 1/2 cup of coolant..

With the radiator cap off, that thing will piss like a race horse...:thumbup:

A slight dab of sealer on the washer/threads wouldn't hurt either.
Click to expand...

Just in case anyone makes the same mistake of not changing the crush washer and getting a small leak. Left the rad cap on and only a couple drops of coolant came out with the drain bolt.

Thanks Scott!
 
TownsendsFJR1300 said:
Did you get it straightened out Rick?
Click to expand...

Not yet. Got a message on FB asking me how I knew it was a silicate based coolant - and I said "Because I checked, just in case" (and sent him the white paper, from the manufacturer)

I said to the owner of the bike shop, Motul doesn't list the Inugel Expert as a motorcycle coolant, so why would they think it would be suitable?

I use Motul 7100 oil in my bike, and change religiously every 3000mi (at $90 per change) as I'm obsessive about the right fluids for the job.

I've got an assessor coming from the insurance company, to look over my bike and see the OTHER things this, alleged, Yamaha factory trained tech stuffed up. (like setting my new chain tension to 25mm (1"), not plugging the taillight in etc.....)

Cheers,
Rick
 
mave2911 said:
Not yet. Got a message on FB asking me how I knew it was a silicate based coolant - and I said "Because I checked, just in case" (and sent him the white paper, from the manufacturer)

I said to the owner of the bike shop, Motul doesn't list the Inugel Expert as a motorcycle coolant, so why would they think it would be suitable?

I use Motul 7100 oil in my bike, and change religiously every 3000mi (at $90 per change) as I'm obsessive about the right fluids for the job.

I've got an assessor coming from the insurance company, to look over my bike and see the OTHER things this, alleged, Yamaha factory trained tech stuffed up. (like setting my new chain tension to 25mm (1"), not plugging the taillight in etc.....)

Cheers,
Rick
Click to expand...


Jeez, didn't know about the chain tension.

Loosen that chain up ASAP to 2". Its causing undue, wear and tear to the chain, front transmission bearing and especially the rear sprocket hub bearing.

Your still getting noise because that chain is STILL way too tight!! You should have enough tools in your tool kit to loosen it.

For what your giving those idiots to "FIX" you bikes (their causing more damage), you could easily buy the tools and do these basic adjustments yourself. Most of them are addressed in the owners manual, the rest in the shop manual. PM me if you need assistance.

The coolant change, takes one 8mm wrench/or socket and some coolant (pre-mixed is even easier, maybe 1/3 a gallon?) and about 20 minutes, $15.00 tops... And you know what's in there..

The FZ6 is one of the most user friendly, maintainance bike, I've ever owned / worked on.


Note. I just re-read post #18 (your post), that its a Kawasaki dealer that did the repairs/adjustment. As noted in other threads AND IN YOUR OWNERS MANUAL, 1.75" -2" is the chain slack for the FZ (which seems like alot) and is considerably more than MOST bikes. If the guy that orked on your bike IS a Yamaha TECH, shame on him...

Bring your owners manual or shop manual with you or print out the pictures below.

Here's from my owners manual, available on-line, FREE, from Yamaha..


The first picture shows EXACTLY where to measure, at its tightest point and WHERE SPECIFICALLY (by the lower plastic chain gaurd)
 
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Hmm, I used peak global gold and never had a problems, pulled the puke tank and the radiator hose, of course I change mine every year before winter. I fill it up, let it idle till the fan kicks on, let it cool, and fill if needed. Make sure there are no leaks.
 
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