WTF is wrong with my charging system?

[htdub]

Here is the shorted out stator

Bike looks like it's back to normal again. Mechanic said maybe i'm drawing too much juice and fried the stator. (Dual HID's, 35wx2 and heated grips)

I ended with a spare used stator, if anyone needs one.

 

[Boneman]

Bike looks like it's back to normal again. Mechanic said maybe i'm drawing too much juice and fried the stator. (Dual HID's, 35wx2 and heated grips)

I believe that HIDs only draw 35W even if BOTH lights are on (versus 110W for both Halogens), so that shouldn't have caused the problem. What you have there should easily be handled by your bike.

 

[htdub]

I believe that HIDs only draw 35W even if BOTH lights are on (versus 110W for both Halogens), so that shouldn't have caused the problem. What you have there should easily be handled by your bike.

thx


That's what I was thinking too, when he said that.

I'll keep a close eye on it, after my commutes.

 

[Motogiro]

Here is the shorted out stator

Bike looks like it's back to normal again. Mechanic said maybe i'm drawing too much juice and fried the stator. (Dual HID's, 35wx2 and heated grips)

I ended with a spare used stator, if anyone needs one.

Good job on the work you did to get it sorted out! I'm still amazed that you where getting those .xx ohm readings on all three legs of that stator. Hold on to that stator and examine it closely. Maybe see if you get an ohm reading to the metal casing.
Again Great JOB!!:rockon:

 

[Fred]

I don't think the draw had anything to do with it. Sometimes a stator just goes bad.

What's surprising to me is how good that one looks. The dead stators I've seen have all been rather crispy looking. Are there any spots on it that look burned?

Fred

 

[RJ2112]

If you look at the photo closely, it looks like it's fried right at the top, where the stamped arrow is pointing. There's one 'tooth' there, that is blackened. Hard to see it without zooming in on the image.

 

[Motogiro]

I don't think the draw had anything to do with it. Sometimes a stator just goes bad.

What's surprising to me is how good that one looks. The dead stators I've seen have all been rather crispy looking. Are there any spots on it that look burned?

Fred

I think we're all thinking along the same lines.

If you look at the photo closely, it looks like it's fried right at the top, where the stamped arrow is pointing. There's one 'tooth' there, that is blackened. Hard to see it without zooming in on the image.

Good eye! That could be where it's got the short and might, with some TLC, even be salvageable...

 

[mukulu]

Hi all,
Should the FZ have any problems powering a few things? I have just fitted some heated grips, and also a 12v supply cable for phone charger/ mp3 player/ or sat nav. I was also looking into doing the dual headlight mod. Is this likely to cause trouble?
Thanks

 

[alanrim]

Hi all,
Should the FZ have any problems powering a few things? I have just fitted some heated grips, and also a 12v supply cable for phone charger/ mp3 player/ or sat nav. I was also looking into doing the dual headlight mod. Is this likely to cause trouble?
Thanks

I would avoid having heated grip and headlight mod on at same time, the phone charger/mp3 player/GPS shouldn't cause concern in combination with either mod.

 

[RJ2112]

I believe that HIDs only draw 35W even if BOTH lights are on (versus 110W for both Halogens), so that shouldn't have caused the problem. What you have there should easily be handled by your bike.

I understood each HID to draw 35 watts once it's warmed up.... the draw being somewhat higher until that point. No change in wattage for high or low beam, when all you do is move a shutter to change the light pattern.

A 55/60 W incandescant is two individual filaments in a common envelope. If it is wired accoding to the design's intent, there will only be one element lit at a time.... some of the ways folk wire up that low beam element, it does not shut off witn the high comes on.

Rather than beat this up, OEM on Low draws ~55 watts. ON Hgh (OEM) the second bulb is lit, for ~60 additional watts. Now we've hit the max OEM condition. ~115 watts for the lighting.

Add in the second lo element from the H4, and you now have ~110 watts constant draw whenever the lights are on. This would be similar to the load an HID setup with two bulbs would produce, except they would require less total watts.... 35 X 2 = 70, rather than ~110.

OEM high @ 115 (two halogen), the HID set up will still pull 70.

Does anyone know what the draw for the HID in startup is? How long does that last, before they warm up to full brightness/lower current draw?

This falls right on top of the highest battery recharge requirement, when what the starter used up needs to be replaced..... it's easy to understand why low idle speed, higher intial draw, and using the starter for longer than usual is a good way to discover your batery is weak.

 

[MaxRyan]

I had 2 ballasts fused at 15 amps in my car, so the max they could draw combined was 15A x 14 V = 210 watts. Most oem ballasts take about 10-20 seconds to fully warm up, at which time the total draw would be approx 70 w for the two. I don't think the battery would have any issue supplying the power during warm up so i doubt it would damage the stator.

 

[RJ2112]

Thanks for that MaxRyan. Good to know.

 

[mukulu]

I would avoid having heated grip and headlight mod on at same time, the phone charger/mp3 player/GPS shouldn't cause concern in combination with either mod.

Thanks for the reply, mate.:thumbup:

 

[CrazyBiker]

for a ST bike, the FZ6 alternator sucks (200watt) Period. FZ1 has 560watt one. They should have atleast put a 400watt one on the FZ6