What is the best Oil.

When to change oil and filter?

  • 600, like the manual says

    Votes: 33 52.4%
  • 100, 600 and then follow the manual

    Votes: 6 9.5%
  • 100, 600, 1200 and then follow the manual

    Votes: 12 19.0%
  • 500, 1000, and then follow the manual

    Votes: 4 6.3%
  • Something else... please explain

    Votes: 8 12.7%

  • Total voters
    63
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Re: Has Rotella T 5W-40 formula changed?

Now I'm confused.
The blue jug of Rotella T 5W-40 that I got from Wal-Mart last summer has this on the label:-
"Meets API Service CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF/SL"
Is this ok?
 
Re: Switched to Rotella T 5w 40 Synthetic...

I've done 2 oil changes on mine so far and never noticed any metal in the oil. I didn't pull out a microscope or anything though.

I wonder if it's because I didn't do the high rev break in technique; more like a 'Whoa, easy on the new bike' type of break in.
 
Re: Switched to Rotella T 5w 40 Synthetic...

That's what I was thinking. All the reading I've done has said that the metal should come out in the first change. I really didn't see all that much in that one, but there was noticeably more in this change. There were flecks that looked like steel or aluminum and some that looked like copper, more reddish.
What exactly would I be looking for in the engine analysis?

Sorry I missed this response.

You would be looking for high levels of aluminum, iron, copper, babbit, and such. Also possibley high levels of gas in the oil.

The oil needs at least 1000 miles in the bike to give a good report, but even more important is a ongoing test series.

Trying to find out if the levels of wear metals are increasing or decreasing.

That is a very wierd situation on your bike.
 
Re: Has Rotella T 5W-40 formula changed?

Now I'm confused.
The blue jug of Rotella T 5W-40 that I got from Wal-Mart last summer has this on the label:-
"Meets API Service CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF/SL"
Is this ok?
Yes. That is ok. Essentially, my point was that any version of Shell Rotella T is fine. Old, or new. The new formula everybody was worried about, but it just turned out to be an improvement.
 
Re: Has Rotella T 5W-40 formula changed?

To back up what another post said,the new SM seems to be lacking in an ingrediant, liked DBDT or something like that. Basicly, this additive is what kept the flat tappet engines from wearing down. HotCams and other large cam manufactures have been having a field day with this.

-bryan
 
Re: Has Rotella T 5W-40 formula changed?

I recently was in the states and picked up a few jugs of Rotella T synthetic. Now they had two different style jugs, anyone know the difference between them? I couldn't see any difference in the specs so I went with the newer style jug

http://news.fleetequipmentmag.com/files/images/ShellRotellaTS5w40.jpg

http://www.billmarshserviceproducts.com/images/rotellatsyn.jpg

errr, nevermind just reread the thread, guess the new style jug is the revised formula
 
Re: Part synthetic oil

I've ran semi-synthetic oil from the beginning, but if you're only at 3100 miles it's not a good idea to change your oil type until your engine is broken in. I would say wait until your third or fourth oil change for that.
 
Re: Part synthetic oil

i went and got some oil yesturday, but once i got home i realized it said part synthetic i only have 3100 miles should i exchange it. or since its not full synthetic might it be ok??

Yeah don't use it. I would not put any synthetic oil in such a new engine as of yet. Would do it past 9000 miles or so. For now just use regular yamaha oil and you should be fine. But when you do decide to go synthetic go full. I got mine with 9900 miles and first oil change I started to use full synthetic oil and it make a hude difference with engine noise and shifting. Some might tell you different, but this is just my .02 cents.
 
Re: Part synthetic oil

Um, I switched to full synthetic at 600 miles (have 3400 now) with no power or oil consumption issues. Anything that is a wear point is gone by now, and the rings seat in the first couple hundred miles. These engines have ceramic/composite cylinder liners, and wear in/seat differently than iron bores. I would not worry about using it.
 
Re: Part synthetic oil

I switched to synthetic on my third oil change at 2,200 miles.

My Yamaha dealer said switching to synthetic as early as 600 miles isn't a problem.
 
Re: Part synthetic oil

Um, I switched to full synthetic at 600 miles (have 3400 now) with no power or oil consumption issues. Anything that is a wear point is gone by now, and the rings seat in the first couple hundred miles. These engines have ceramic/composite cylinder liners, and wear in/seat differently than iron bores. I would not worry about using it.

I'm sure you're right. With most motorcycles I would say not to switch oil, but the way Yamaha builds they're enigines...it's just a work of art (not that I know engines that well, just my opinion :)) But even so...I wouldn't take any chances with a new bike. I plan on owning my FZ6 for a long time, and i want it to last.
 
Re: Part synthetic oil

Yeah don't use it. I would not put any synthetic oil in such a new engine as of yet. Would do it past 9000 miles or so. For now just use regular yamaha oil and you should be fine. But when you do decide to go synthetic go full. I got mine with 9900 miles and first oil change I started to use full synthetic oil and it make a hude difference with engine noise and shifting. Some might tell you different, but this is just my .02 cents.

Why?... It's an old wives tale, can't believe people still believe this crap. Pure nonsense... Corvettes role off the assembly line running Mobil 1 synthetic...
 
Re: Part synthetic oil

Why?... It's an old wives tale, can't believe people still believe this crap. Pure nonsense... Corvettes role off the assembly line running Mobil 1 synthetic...

We're not arguing there's anything wrong with synthetic, but I've heard it from many dealers and mechanics that it's not wise to switch the type of oil before the engine is properly broken in. I'm no expert so I can't give this advice much credibility, but I trust most of the mechanics I go to and I believe what they say. Oh well, it's really just oil after all is said and done...but like I said before, I want my bike to have a long happy life :D
 
Re: Part synthetic oil

I'm not going to go into when you should switch to synthetic. What I will say is don't waste you money on a semi-synthetic oil. Either use conventional or full synthetic oil as semi-syn oils are only about 5 to 8% synthetic.
 
Re: Part synthetic oil

Yep full syn is awesome for what it is. Its back up. If something fails or the bike is over hot or you run to long on the oil it works better longer. I like it and reccomend it.

Mine went full syn mobil one at 250 miles. Very powerful bike, runs smoothly and has just shy of 27,000 miles on it now. 2007 model.

Gosling has over 50,000 on his and I dont what kind of oil he uses. I like mobil one but any good oil is fine as long as you use your brain.

Semisyn is marketing gimic to get extra money for nothing.
 
Re: Part synthetic oil

Wow. Any mechanic who would tell me I should wait until 10k to change to
synthetic oil would lose all credibility with me. I've never heard that.
On Motoman's Break-in Secrets website, he recommends waiting only until
1500 miles. He has some verifiable results there too, if you believe them.
If no one else can back the claims up with anything but their opinion, then
take it for what it's worth, which could be nothing these days. If you really
want your bike to last a long, long time, then say you're not using synth oil
until 10k miles, then you've just contradicted yourself. Yamaha says the break in period is over at 1k miles. They engineered it, they should know. Of course, they'll also tell you never to buy pipes or mod the bike, and always to shift at the "proper" shift points. This means no one would ever have fun on the poor thing.
Start early on synthetic. You won't regret it. I've had some techs prove it to me, if you believe that.:thumbup:
I'm going with 1500 miles, and I'll be there soon. I'm using Rotella T synth.
Great oil! Shifting is very smooth on other bikes, and hope it will be with this one.

- T.
 
Re: Part synthetic oil

We're not arguing there's anything wrong with synthetic, but I've heard it from many dealers and mechanics that it's not wise to switch the type of oil before the engine is properly broken in. I'm no expert so I can't give this advice much credibility, but I trust most of the mechanics I go to and I believe what they say. Oh well, it's really just oil after all is said and done...but like I said before, I want my bike to have a long happy life :D

I would find better informed mechanics. Of all the synthetic oil brands out there, only one, Redline Oils, says to put a thousand or so miles on before switching. All other brands say switch when you want. VW, Audi, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Jaguar, Land Rover, Corvette's, and many others come from the factory with synthetic oil as factory fill. If there were issues with break in on syn, I doubt so many companies would do it. In fact in 1998 when all VW's switched over to the VW 502.00 spec (synthetic) oil, VW stopped publishing the break in info in the owners manual, VW said with synthetic oil, not much of a break in is needed.
 
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