Wax???

I dont know about best, but I am and have been a big fan of Liquid Glass. Its $23 a can, and it works great for me.
 
I have always used and love good ole' turtle wax. They came out with the premium series last year and it works awesome.
 
3M Show Car Liquid Wax "professional formula"

If it's good enough to use on our 2 milllion dollar helicopters, it's good enough to go on my FZ6.

About $9 - $10 for a pint.
 
No doubt there are a number of good waxes on the market however, you will note there is a huge difference between professional grade waxes and polishes and those found at the local auto parts store or Wally World. The one major difference is the application process and the residue factor. A quality professional grade wax or polish often has no need to dry as it is blended in much like the lotion you may use on your skin. That professional grade product will not harm rubber parts either. There will be no need to tape things off for fear you will leave white junk all over your blacked out fender skirts or moldings.

I use a 3 step process that requires a base coat, polish coat and seal coat. This allows me to use spray detailer for the remainder of the years and polishing (not waxing) is only then required on an annual basis. The other thing I would recommend you avoid is stealing your misses dish soap as this is murder on the best of wax jobs. At present most professional grade automotive soaps have wax polymers in the product and they are well worth the money.

Bottom line, if that micro-fiber towel drags across your paint 2 weeks after you waxed or polished your surfaces it's time to use that product on the kid next doors go-kart because it doesn't work too well on your bike.

Try some of these products:

Zymol, Adams, S100 and Zbest waxes and polishes
Blue Coral or Turtle wax soap...

There are many more but these have long work very well for me.
 
No doubt there are a number of good waxes on the market however, you will note there is a huge difference between professional grade waxes and polishes and those found at the local auto parts store or Wally World. The one major difference is the application process and the residue factor. A quality professional grade wax or polish often has no need to dry as it is blended in much like the lotion you may use on your skin. That professional grade product will not harm rubber parts either. There will be no need to tape things off for fear you will leave white junk all over your blacked out fender skirts or moldings.

I use a 3 step process that requires a base coat, polish coat and seal coat. This allows me to use spray detailer for the remainder of the years and polishing (not waxing) is only then required on an annual basis. The other thing I would recommend you avoid is stealing your misses dish soap as this is murder on the best of wax jobs. At present most professional grade automotive soaps have wax polymers in the product and they are well worth the money.

Bottom line, if that micro-fiber towel drags across your paint 2 weeks after you waxed or polished your surfaces it's time to use that product on the kid next doors go-kart because it doesn't work too well on your bike.

Try some of these products:

Zymol, Adams, S100 and Zbest waxes and polishes
Blue Coral or Turtle wax soap...

There are many more but these have long work very well for me.

Thanks for such a detailed reply Hav! I like how you usually back up your answer not just " use zymol"! But I am glad to hear than because out of blind faith I have been using Zymol and Blue coral (wash-n-wax in one) on the bike. I really didn't want to buy the Zymol at $13 a bottle but it has lasted for a while and as you say it blends like lotion.

As Hav said if you dont have a microfiber cloth to remove your wax.... well just get one!
 
Thanks for such a detailed reply Hav! I like how you usually back up your answer not just " use zymol"! But I am glad to hear than because out of blind faith I have been using Zymol and Blue coral (wash-n-wax in one) on the bike. I really didn't want to buy the Zymol at $13 a bottle but it has lasted for a while and as you say it blends like lotion.

As Hav said if you dont have a microfiber cloth to remove your wax.... well just get one!

Zymol is some great stuff Madman. Unfortunately, it is no longer available in the little blue tub of paste; fear not, the liquid is awesome too. I use their creamy leather conditioner too and as you have indicated a little bit goes along way. The same thing holds true for many of the other professional grade products. The last time I bought Zbest and S100 was at the Route 66 Rendezvous in 2005 and that suff gets shared with 4 vehicles.

This is one area you truly get what you pay for.
 
So here is my rule of thumb... if I can use it on my car I wont use it on my bike. I have heard many horror stories about cleaners for cars hurting bike finishes, such as wheel cleaners. Never use a car wheel cleaner on your bike!

As for polish I use Motul Spray and Shine and then the Wash and Wax. I use both and love them. The reason these are great in my mind is that I dont have to worry about getting the dried residue build up out of the cracks. It takes me 10-15 mins to polish my bike after a wash.

-bryan
 
So here is my rule of thumb... if I can use it on my car I wont use it on my bike. I have heard many horror stories about cleaners for cars hurting bike finishes, such as wheel cleaners. Never use a car wheel cleaner on your bike!

As for polish I use Motul Spray and Shine and then the Wash and Wax. I use both and love them. The reason these are great in my mind is that I dont have to worry about getting the dried residue build up out of the cracks. It takes me 10-15 mins to polish my bike after a wash.

-bryan

Many of the store bought waxes are cleaner waxes and they may or may not be clear coat safe. Horror stories? Yeah, no doubt... The residue you refer to is never a factor with the professional products. The one question that must always be asked when dealing with painted surfaces is how much UV protection does the product offer. Bright colors like red, green, blue and so on can take a real hit from the UV and spray detailers will not offer the protection necessary to prevent fade. Sure, they will offer a clean fresh look but wait a couple years if that bike is subjected to heat and sun like that of the Vegas area or parts of the Pacific south west and you'll see a difference if you ever have to replace factory painted parts.
 
Many of the store bought waxes are cleaner waxes and they may or may not be clear coat safe. Horror stories? Yeah, no doubt... The residue you refer to is never a factor with the professional products. The one question that must always be asked when dealing with painted surfaces is how much UV protection does the product offer. Bright colors like red, green, blue and so on can take a real hit from the UV and spray detailers will not offer the protection necessary to prevent fade. Sure, they will offer a clean fresh look but wait a couple years if that bike is subjected to heat and sun like that of the Vegas area or parts of the Pacific south west and you'll see a difference if you ever have to replace factory painted parts.

Interesting that you mention that. I will look into what protection the Motul products that we use offers. My father has been using it on his Nomad for years now it so far so good. Purchased it new in 2004 and have been using Motul on it since he got it, but on that same note we haven't ever really let it sit out side. The only time its out is when it is being rode and so far it has 27,000 miles on it.

-bryan
 
Interesting that you mention that. I will look into what protection the Motul products that we use offers. My father has been using it on his Nomad for years now it so far so good. Purchased it new in 2004 and have been using Motul on it since he got it, but on that same note we haven't ever really let it sit out side. The only time its out is when it is being rode and so far it has 27,000 miles on it.

-bryan

You've brought up a very good point here Bryan. Exposure time has everything to do with how long any particular product is going to last. One of the reasons most detailers will use a carnauba base coat is because of burn off time associated with exposure to heat generated not only by the mechanical operation of a vehicle but more importantly the sun. Carnauba base coats can tolerate surface temperatures of around 250F. So, for a bike that resides in a geographic location where temperatures are lower the base coat will last longer. This same thing holds true for the bike/cage that may see very little exposure time from the harsh rays of the desert sun like that of the Pacific south west. Quick detailers offer a very limited protection factor and this can be observed by parking that vehicle out in the hot sun for about 6 hours and then test it with your micro fiber towel. Generally speaking the towel will drag over the painted surface making it necessary for further applications. Quick detailers work awesome as a support mechanism for the quality wax you may use but they are by no means a suitable replacement.
Motul makes a quality dry cleaner for the road by the way.....
 
You've brought up a very good point here Bryan. Exposure time has everything to do with how long any particular product is going to last. One of the reasons most detailers will use a carnauba base coat is because of burn off time associated with exposure to heat generated not only by the mechanical operation of a vehicle but more importantly the sun. Carnauba base coats can tolerate surface temperatures of around 250F. So, for a bike that resides in a geographic location where temperatures are lower the base coat will last longer. This same thing holds true for the bike/cage that may see very little exposure time from the harsh rays of the desert sun like that of the Pacific south west. Quick detailers offer a very limited protection factor and this can be observed by parking that vehicle out in the hot sun for about 6 hours and then test it with your micro fiber towel. Generally speaking the towel will drag over the painted surface making it necessary for further applications. Quick detailers work awesome as a support mechanism for the quality wax you may use but they are by no means a suitable replacement.
Motul makes a quality dry cleaner for the road by the way.....

Great information! I appreciate it that makes alot of since. I have a few select waxes I like using on my Z28 and you are right quick detailers are quick touch ups and help when you have a good base coat of wax. One of my roommates is be into detailing and he uses some wax that you get in a can and you put in your hand and then rub on the car. I just couldnt imagine doing that on a bike. So many small places... that would be a pain.
 
Great information! I appreciate it that makes alot of since. I have a few select waxes I like using on my Z28 and you are right quick detailers are quick touch ups and help when you have a good base coat of wax. One of my roommates is be into detailing and he uses some wax that you get in a can and you put in your hand and then rub on the car. I just couldnt imagine doing that on a bike. So many small places... that would be a pain.


I use a micro-fiber application pad that is damp. I never wax the area within say 1/2 inch of the tiny places you speak of. Rather than apply the wax there, allow the towel you use for your final wipe down to push the wax into that area. I you the same polish towel many times over because it carries the wax as opposed to being wax free.
 
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