Using WD40?

That article sums up my findings. WD40 has its place, but like they say, there are better products for most purposes. :thumbup:
 
One thing I can vouch for regarding the use of Marvel Mystery oil over WD-40 is MMO's propensity to loosen crud and keep the parts passing over each other. I have been a competitive shooter and amateur gunsmith for over 20 years and nothing I have tried will cut crud (or gun fouling) like a mix of half motor oil and half MMO. Straight MMO would be my choice for any mechanical application where metal parts pass over each other, even under heat, over WD-40. However, for rusted threads, I would try both.
 
That piece was crap in my opinion.sure there are specialist products out there that do one specific task better than anything else,but WD40 is an all rounder,that has been around for more years than that and it's strange that Banger racers up to F1 mechanics,still seem to have a tin in their rolltop.which makes me know it aint all that bad

Big up for WD40 here. :thumbup:
 
I think the article was a bit harsh, but very interesting; thank to the OP for sharing it. The last paragraph puts everything in perspective.

At the end of the day, WD-40 is a combination of a solvent similar to kerosene, and mineral oil. Sure, there are specialty products that do a better job in specific conditions. I have a container in my garage just for various lubricants for specific things (like the chain on my FZ6). Right tool for the job sort of thing.

But when you just need something to reach for in conditions where you only need a solvent or light lube for a small job, and don't want to add to your collection, it's a great all-arounder!

Take things listed in the article like squeaky doors, or bicycle chains...my 4 year old isn't Lance Armstrong, and his little legs don't generate nearly the "torque and speed" they're talking about. His bicycle - which was his brother's before him - has had its parts treated with WD-40 for years and the wheels haven't fallen off yet.

He's fallen off a few times though. Maybe I shouldn't have put it on the seat? ;)
 
Used in on the leftover glue from my base decal today, as well as cleaning my chain, and lubing the brake lever. It's like the duct tape of lubrication how dare you badmouth it lol.
 
WD-40 has many great applications but I've had cabinet makers that used it on router bearings that said it gums up and I agree that it might be okay in an emergency but not long term use for high speed bearing applications.
 
Motogiro said:
WD-40 has many great applications but I've had cabinet makers that used it on router bearings that said it gums up and I agree that it might be okay in an emergency but not long term use for high speed bearing applications.
Click to expand...

I can vouch for WD's ability to CLEAN a router bearing or saw blade of pitch and resin. It's the best. It would follow then that it can't be a great lube in those high speed/high heat situations. And as it spins off the hot parts gum up quickly again. Light machine oil for that! Just sayin.....:thumbup:
 
My mechanic told me to use WD-40 to clean the chain. It looks like it's doing a good job but I don't know if there will be long term damage to the chain.
I was using kerosene and the mechanic said that's a big no-no.
 
semongtaulie said:
My mechanic told me to use WD-40 to clean the chain. It looks like it's doing a good job but I don't know if there will be long term damage to the chain.
I was using kerosene and the mechanic said that's a big no-no.
Click to expand...
Kerosene is a big no no if you have o rings. I wouldnt use WD40 either. Invest in good chain lube. Lots of threads on topic



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
stealthyman said:
Some interesting comparisons of WD40 versus other products ...

WD-40 Oil Alternatives - The Case Against WD-40 - Popular Mechanics
Click to expand...

I've been some type of mechanic all my life. Building machinery, working on cars, tinkering. It is sort of my knack.

WD-40 is really good for a lot of things. I wouldn't/ don't use it for long term lubrication. It just doesn't stick around, it evaporates. There are better products for most of the jobs it does but it is so handy I keep a can around all the time. Along with 3 in 1 oil, grease and a couple specialists type lubricants like chain lube and Anti-Seize type products. For rust protection coatings like putting break rotors on the shelf because you got a great deal on them but won't use them for a year or so, half 40w motor oil, half kerosene coats well and sticks around after the kerosene evaps.
 
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