trip meter fail

Smittyboy

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I've tried searching for it three or four times to no avail. Since utilizing a naked kit popular on here, my trip meters reset every time the ignition is turned off. Upon starting the bike again the trip a and b both read 0.0 I'm clueless, so any information would be much appreciated. Could it be a bad ground or something similar? I'd like to remedy this as to be able to find my new MPG, but the bike runs just fine ;) so it isn't a really pressing matter. Just an annoyance. Once again, any help would be great.
Smitty
 
Sounds like your prom in the ecm is bad or shorting check the ECM plug under the seat for corrosion clean in out with air and out some due electric grease on it that's a wild guess with knowledge about cars, if I had a schemifc of the bike is better be able to answer you
 
Cliff or Randy (Motogiro or Finalimpact) would have some very knowledgable ideas but it sounds as if somethings not wired correctly..

Just like when you disconnect the battery, the odometer/clock re-sets.

Seems whatever line goes to that curcuit should be hot all the time but is wired switched (goes on and off with the key), thus re-setting the meter...

I'd recheck the wiring diagram that came with the kit, something is likely not wired hot ALL THE TIME.

PM them if they don't chime in...
 
Just tried the grease. I don't know if this was the case before but now it retains trip reading for up to 45 seconds without the key on. The wiring is the original harness and display. I don't think they'll snap together incorrectly. Wires aren't frayed or stripped. Any help or ideas would be great. Bike runs and display reads perfectly while going, it's the off part which is the problem. I reiterate ANY HELP would be great.
 
+1 on the above. There should be one wire that is 12volts all the time going into the gauge cluster. That wire is for memory just like in a car stereo. Sounds like one way or another that wire got hooked up to a switched source.
 
+1 on the above. There should be one wire that is 12volts all the time going into the gauge cluster. That wire is for memory just like in a car stereo. Sounds like one way or another that wire got hooked up to a switched source.

BUT HOW!?! It's all original wiring and all parts clicked together as it did before... ARGH!
How would I find the wire and remedy the problem?
 
this is why i love this forum!!!!!!!!! You guys are great!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the confidence Bro!

Check fuse #4 in this schematic. It's called the backup fuse. It backs up the clock and trip odo's You may have inadvertently shorted this fuse. The wire color listed that carries the constant voltage to the instrument cluster should be red with a green tracer (might be like green dots on a red wire)

Test from between this wire to ground. You should see constant 12-13 VDC on this wire. If not and the fuse is good, trace back to see where it shows up or gets lost. :)

Please let us know how you're making out on this!
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the confidence Bro!

Check fuse #4 in this schematic. It's called the backup fuse. It backs up the clock and trip odo's You may have inadvertently shorted this fuse. The wire color listed that carries the constant voltage to the instrument cluster should be red with a green tracer (might be like green dots on a red wire)

Test from between this wire to ground. You should see constant 12-13 VDC on this wire. If not and the fuse is good, trace back to see where it shows up or gets lost. :)

Please let us know how you're making out on this!

Didn't recognize the new picture under your name!
 
Fuse was indeed popped. All is well. Thanks again! Now for the next question. How does one stop ice from forming in the ignition while parked? thinking magnetic fridge thing trimmed down... Would that work? any ideas apreciated
 
Fuse was indeed popped. All is well. Thanks again! Now for the next question. How does one stop ice from forming in the ignition while parked? thinking magnetic fridge thing trimmed down... Would that work? any ideas apreciated

Now reset yer clock! :)
 
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