Tried Doing a Wheelie, Didn't Go So Well... [VIDEO]

Looked good to me. Better than I can do!

The only time I wheelie is when I don't mean to.
 
If u have access to one, Try an Atv used as practice for wheelies, you can learn the feel with less fear for tumbling.
 
If you want some advice on how to wheelie like a pro.. Ask [MENTION=8989]Kazza[/MENTION], she is a pro at getting the front wheel HIGH in the air !! ;) ;) Blah Blah

Seriously, am I EVER going to live that down?

All I did was accidentally hit first whilst trying to speed up a steep hill. And having you there to witness me made it all the better LOL

Nothing to it ;)
 
Guy makes a thread about wheeling fails, does an OK wheelie, and then tells you how to do a better wheelie. :rolleyes:

Nvm on the rest I wrote. Not worth it.
 
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Guy makes a thread about wheeling fails, does an OK wheelie, and then tells you how to do a better wheelie. :rolleyes:

Nvm on the rest I wrote. Not worth it.

I haven't actually said anything since your less post.... the only thing I'v disagreed about is my tire. It's pretty common knowledge that you should run 15-20psi in the rear for wheelies. I had 30 psi in mine, plus I wasn't putting much weight over the rear, that's why I was getting tire spin, not because my tire sucks.

Never hurts to lift the handle bars as well.

If you mean to preload the front end, I should probably actually start doing that.
 
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new rider here chiming in...

I watched a bunch of youtube tutorials this spring before getting the bike and then tried dumping the clutch in some big open empty parking lots. First things first...my right foot is touching the rear brake. Rev it up quick and as you see it start to approach 6-7k in first, dump the clutch and the front end should pop up. From then on it's just trying to get to that sweet spot where you maintain your speed. I haven't gotten there yet, but I've kept the shiny side up so far!!
 
Although I agree that lowering the pressure may help with stability, its not the cure all. When you see folks doing pivots, circles, and other acts, the lower pressure gives you some wiggle room with the controls, but in the end, you gotta find the "other" center of gravity that keeps it stable in the upright position. That comes with experience and giant pizza cutter sprocket! :D
 
Although I agree that lowering the pressure may help with stability, its not the cure all. When you see folks doing pivots, circles, and other acts, the lower pressure gives you some wiggle room with the controls, but in the end, you gotta find the "other" center of gravity that keeps it stable in the upright position. That comes with experience and giant pizza cutter sprocket! :D

We were talking about wheel spin when popping the clutch. I think I can stop it with lower tire pressure, better body position, and better technique. FZ09Bandit was telling me that I was getting wheel spin because my tires suck.

Honestly, I'll probably just try to get another foot or so of height and then call it a day. Probably won't go for balance point wheelies until I have a bike I don't care about to learn on.
 
Not bad, like everyone says... keep the rev up and be in the power band. If it doesn't work go test a FZ09! LOL Then you will do that int he first 3 gears at will!
 
We were talking about wheel spin when popping the clutch. I think I can stop it with lower tire pressure, better body position, and better technique. FZ09Bandit was telling me that I was getting wheel spin because my tires suck.

Honestly, I'll probably just try to get another foot or so of height and then call it a day. Probably won't go for balance point wheelies until I have a bike I don't care about to learn on.

Copy that...

However, it seems like thats mainly the surface you're on and tire pressure may not fix that (chirps). IDK? Like a cage in a parking garage, some surfaces are more slippery and make noise even though the tire has suitable traction.
Useless but IMO riding to and from a location on a low tire is not worth it, but that's just me. Good luck!
 
. FZ09Bandit was telling me that I was getting wheel spin because my tires suck.

What I meant was, a hot tire will give you less issues than a cold one, never had a hot tire slip in anything and I have rode in 20 degrees. And that you shouldn't be getting wheelspin, so either power it or clutch it.
 
The problem is this place is only 1 mile from my house.... so the tires might not that be warm. I suppose I could do some high speed braking to warm them up. That being said I'm still going to drop the pressure to at least what I run on the track. Even when my tires are warm, at 30 psi, I get wheel spin when I launch the bike at 7,000 RPM, and I'm popping the clutch a bit higher then that to get the wheel up.

Copy that...

However, it seems like thats mainly the surface you're on and tire pressure may not fix that (chirps). IDK? Like a cage in a parking garage, some surfaces are more slippery and make noise even though the tire has suitable traction.
Useless but IMO riding to and from a location on a low tire is not worth it, but that's just me. Good luck!

Good point, may just be the surface. Dropping down my back tire to 20-25 psi wouldn't necessarily be riding with a low tire, just a lower pressure than normally used for street riding. All it would do is cause premature wear and tear.
 
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almost every stunter will tell you learn how to do a power wheelie first then go to clutch. power willies are actually very easy and a lot less likely to crash on Versus a clutch wheelie. get that thing up about 10 grand back of the throttle to load the front suspension up and then hammer intuit that front end will walk straight up smooth as silk. you don't have to worry about spinin the tires but spin the tires actually helps with doing a wheelie give it a little bit of slip but then grabs it's almost like an instant wheelie that's where clutch wheelie can be dangerous. you're not talking about stuntin so you shouldn't be worried about tire pressure for just learning to wheelie, get the fundamentals first technicalities second

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2
 
new rider here chiming in...

I watched a bunch of youtube tutorials this spring before getting the bike and then tried dumping the clutch in some big open empty parking lots. First things first...my right foot is touching the rear brake. Rev it up quick and as you see it start to approach 6-7k in first, dump the clutch and the front end should pop up. From then on it's just trying to get to that sweet spot where you maintain your speed. I haven't gotten there yet, but I've kept the shiny side up so far!!

I bought my bike (for cheap) after the original owner tried his first (and only) wheelie that way... Unfortunatly, no video, just a broken wrist and a bike that lost half its value...

$1,500 in parts later and a bunch of time... (Not shown is the rt mirror, rt bar end, bent main stay, inner fairing, etc)...
 
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I bought my bike (for cheap) after the original owner tried his first (and only) wheelie that way... Unfortunatly, no video, just a broken wrist and a bike that lost half its value...

$1,500 in parts later and a bunch of time... (Not shown is the rt mirror, rt bar end, bent main stay, etc)...


and this is the exact reason why I try to keep both wheels on the tarmac.
I'm impressed by stunters, but those gits that do this on the street to show off and then lose it or hurt someone in the process, only continue to prove that pro stunters are good at what they do, and the street is not the place to get the expertise to be a pro
 
almost every stunter will tell you learn how to do a power wheelie first then go to clutch. power willies are actually very easy and a lot less likely to crash on Versus a clutch wheelie. get that thing up about 10 grand back of the throttle to load the front suspension up and then hammer intuit that front end will walk straight up smooth as silk. you don't have to worry about spinin the tires but spin the tires actually helps with doing a wheelie give it a little bit of slip but then grabs it's almost like an instant wheelie that's where clutch wheelie can be dangerous. you're not talking about stuntin so you shouldn't be worried about tire pressure for just learning to wheelie, get the fundamentals first technicalities second

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2

To add to Chevys post, coming down at that speed, wide open run out, is NOT nearly as hard on your frame and dropping it from 4' up in the air.

If you've ever looked at a stunters bike (and spoke with them), the rear sprocket is gigantic.

Most have a second rear brake caliper or a second line, tied into the the REAR brake caliper so they can activate the rear brakes by HAND (NOT foot) while in the air(foot brake un-accessable).

They also (at least for the slower speed) "full up" wheelies, stand on the rear pegs, putting thier weight way farther back. Their pretty much standing up straight with the bike also standing almost straight up.

With the larger rear sprocket, for the slow stuff, under roughly 40 MPH, the bike is MUCH EASIER to control as the rear sprocket allows for more abrupt throttle input.

BTW, when watching them perform up close, they get the bike moving fairly slow, then rev and pop the clutch to bring it all the way up. I've seen several "closed track" shows (not 80' long), sponsored by one of the local shops with two different "stunters". Both bikes were 600's BTW..

Very cool to watch!

I'll do a maybe 6" power wheelie in first, no clutching, hitting about 12k, but that high stuff, I break too easy... Let the youngins do it..
 
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