Tips to maximize MPGs?

[lsavagelow]

Hello all,

So I noticed that when I actually do the speed limit (ha ha) on the freeway my MPG went up. Doing 65 MPH for a 300 mile stretch nets me about 58-59 miles per gallon at about 5500 RPM. When I was going faster I was only getting about 50 MPG. I went back and looked at posts to the forum from years ago and I saw a few polls where people got more MPG than this. Would any of you getting more than 60 MPG give me your secret?! Or anyone that's seen a bump in fuel efficiency?

Details about my bike/performance:
2006 FZ6 w/fairing (but not lowers), all stock (chain, sprockets, etc)
Tires: Continental Motion front and rear at 33 and 36 PSI
Rider weight: 155 pounds
Fuel: 91 octane usually Chevron or Shell
Saddle bags and top case

Thanks,

Leo

 

[Serzedo]

If I want I can do 4,88lts/100km with easy accelerations, smooth riding and specially know what gear to use better in order for the accelerator doesn't get too much open, just enough to keep her going.

"V"

 

[MattR302]

When I have my Givi top case on, I get about 47 MPG.
When I have my Givi top and side cases on, I get about 43 MPG.
These numbers are very consistent, same type of mixed city/highway riding.

 

[gtosteve65]

Can you post the link to those forums you saw from a few years ago? I'm having trouble finding them.

 

[lsavagelow]

Sure this is the main one:
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...tion-faired-naked.html?highlight=miles+gallon

 

[Red Wazp]

Yamaha calls for regular gas in most of it's motors including the 600. Just saved you 20 cents a gallon so now you can ride more worry less

Running regular may even boost you mpg but you are already doing quite well. I never got much over the mid 40's but I have a right wrist problem.

 

[FinalImpact]

MPGs are impacted more based upon load than RPM.
Its why wind resistance drops the MPGs so much. Whether its cases sticking out or increased speed, its less aero efficient.

Connect a vacuum gauge to the vacuum sensor and watch your engine load while on the flats, up hill, down hill, and cruising at 60 vs 75mph... The higher you keep the intake manifold vacuum, the less fuel is needed (to a point). Its why gearing down 17/46 doesnt really do much as it increases the load on the engine.

Its not tractor and its happy to pull RPM. It may even use less fuel in a lower gear pulling more rpm than if ran in a higher gear which increases the load imposed and subsequently adds more fuel to reduce detonation...

Also, look into advancing the ignition timing it will improve the MPGs but there comes a point when you need higher octane to reduce detonation...

Your best bet is making cut through the air better. After that its fueling, ignition, mechanical efficiency. Think ceramic bearings, ceramic chain, improved fluids if not synthetic already. But that all costs $$$$$!!!

 

[lsavagelow]

Thanks everyone for the tips so far!

 

[grbl]

Rolling resistance is reduced by running higher tire pressures and using tires with less grip. For the best mileage, get touring tires (like Angels or Pilot Roads) and air them up to the bike's max, 36 front 42 rear. Rolling resistance is roughly proportional to weight, so lowering the weight by removing luggage, hitting the gym, etc. also increases efficiency.

Air resistance is where most of the energy goes on the highway, and your body has a terrible drag coefficient so clipons and a more aggressive rearset will get you out of the airflow and increase efficiency considerably, at the expense of being uncomfortable and looking like a doofus cruising tucked. Air resistance increases exponentially with speed, so 55 is waay more efficient than 80. Peak efficiency for an FZ6 is probably around 20-30 mph, not that anyone's going to do that on the highway.

A typical gas engine is most efficient at about 60-90% throttle, and low RPMs. That means that for a given acceleration time, shifting earlier and giving it more throttle is more efficient than shifting at high RPM but babying the throttle. Accelerating too slowly is actually less efficient.

Mods that make more power (e.g. open pipes, open filter, higher compression ratio, port & polish) also increase fuel efficiency. A poorly-maintained bike with dragging brakes or bearings will lose you efficiency. Lighter-weight crankcase oil will reduce cruising mechanical drag but increase engine wear.

Taken to an extreme, a "motorcycle" designed with all this in mind can get over 3,000 mpg. See SAE Supermilage https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_Supermileage_Competition.