TB Stock Base-line

[galen]

I just installed a slip-on exhaust and cant stop the LOPE-LOPE at idle. I have synced the Throttle bodies and idle X2. My #1 TB screw had noticable tool marks(to big driver) so i think i am starting at the wrong point. From what i can tell with checking every thing most of the normal maintenance was not kept upto par. I have a motion-pro carbsynce and a vacume gauge. How do you set cyl.#1 to spec?(06) Do you Gauge #1 and balance the others at the same time or close 2-4 and set#1 It runs good except at idle to 4k. I am running a K&N filter and airbox mod. Thanks for any input:thumbup:

 

[krid80]

Just make them all equal on a sync tool. You don't have to set them to a specific setting as long as they are all the same. you will need to adjust your idle when you are done and it should cure the issue. The lopey idle is due to low backpressure. Getting that to permanently disappear may not be possible. But it shouldn't affect anything above idle.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk

 

[FinalImpact]

Whats the idle speed? Bump that to 1350 0r so and then sync them. It should make it easier too. You might also check for exhaust leaks too.

 

[joe1971]

I was going to explain it but this does it better, just remember that when you have the vacuum gauge hook to #1 to set your baseline you need to kink the hose of your gauge a little to stabilize the needle, otherwise it will bounce like a curb monkey.

Go here and download the manual
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/28030-full-workshop-service-manual-2007-fz6.html
Section 3 page 6 is where you want to start.

 

[galen]

Thanks but i have done all of that and have a copy of the service manual.

 

[joe1971]

Ok didn't know you had the service manual :thumbup:

I just installed a slip-on exhaust and cant stop the LOPE-LOPE at idle. I have synced the Throttle bodies and idle X2. My #1 TB screw had noticable tool marks(to big driver) so i think i am starting at the wrong point. From what i can tell with checking every thing most of the normal maintenance was not kept upto par. I have a motion-pro carbsynce and a vacume gauge. How do you set cyl.#1 to spec?

By turning the air adjustment screw either direction until 8.5-9in of mercury is achieved (since you already attempted this once I'm assuming that you are familiar with where thing are located and what they are)

(06) Do you Gauge #1 and balance the others at the same time or close 2-4 and set#1

set #1 then hook up you nanometer to #1 and using that as a baseline adjust the others to match, I don't know if you have a 2 place nanometer or a 4 place, if 2 then you will leave it hooked to#1 the entire time and move the other hose to 2,3,4, if you have a 4 place then just hook all 4 hoses up and play with it till you get them all to match #1

It runs good except at idle to 4k. I am running a K&N filter and airbox mod. Thanks for any input:thumbup:

Fair warning it can get a little maddening some times as when you change one air screw then the others move if you have the fluid type nanometer, so patience is a must.

 

[galen]

I set #1 to spec with vacume gauge closer to 9 (spec 8.58...)and matched others and set idel to 1260-1320.It sounded better at first but after a ride it was still jumping from 1220-1400rpm at ideal. Ihave done this 4 times in two days and dont care about the sound any more but i dont want to do any damage. Thanks for the input.

 

[joe1971]

you may want to try getting an unmodified airbox lid, I know the way some of them get modified it causes problem with the intake resonance. just a thought

 

[galen]

you may want to try getting an unmodified airbox lid, I know the way some of them get modified it causes problem with the intake resonance. just a thought

I was thinking about tapeing it up to see if it made any diff. When i cut the airbox i just inlarged the opening a little on each side. Thanks for the idea,