Sudden throttle disengage

[BitesWhenBitten]

Returning forks to stock height might cause different geometry problems if you don't unlower the rear at the same time.

It looks like there might have been a mild edge trap at the shoulder transition that could have started a wobble. Hard to tell from the video.

It is very hard to tell, a lot is left uncertain by it.
If that is the case I will have everything returned to stock.

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[Motogiro]

Side stand safety switch? Kill switch?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Side stand safety switch? Kill switch?

I think the Op refers to returning the suspension to stock (raise forks, loose the rear "link").

 

[Motogiro]

I think the Op refers to returning the suspension to stock (raise forks, loose the rear "link").

I was referring to why it lost engine power. If not the kill switch which is a common fail, maybe they modified the side stand (because of the suspension height change) and had it apart. Reassembled and botched the side stand safety. Riding along and the side stand safety triggered the engine stoppage?

 

[BitesWhenBitten]

I was referring to why it lost engine power. If not the kill switch which is a common fail, maybe they modified the side stand (because of the suspension height change) and had it apart. Reassembled and botched the side stand safety. Riding along and the side stand safety triggered the engine stoppage?

That's a very good point. Although I've ridden it many times and this was the first instance.

I've ordered a new kill switch with cable to install, just because a cable looks good at the end doesn't mean that there isn't a short in the middle that's making contact when compressed in some manner.
(Being the Network Technician, this is where I start to transfer thought process a little.)

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[BitesWhenBitten]

I think the Op refers to returning the suspension to stock (raise forks, loose the rear "link").

Forgive my ignorance, what does Op mean?

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[Motogiro]

Forgive my ignorance, what does Op mean?

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Original post or poster.

And check your side stand and it's safety switch for proper operation.

 

[BitesWhenBitten]

Original post or poster.

And check your side stand and it's safety switch for proper operation.

Do you know offhand the location of the switch? I'll kick it on the center stand and play with it.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

The side stand switch is bolted to the frame.

Shortening the stand makes NO DIFFERENCE in how it pushes in the "switch plunger".

You can clean/ re-grease the internals of the switch while on the bike. Again, a short stool next to the switch (to work on) and it's easily taken apart.
There is a spring inside. It's not nearly as temperamental as the RED kill switch but has been known to fail on rare occasions.

One member had the spring rust away. I suggested a retractable pen spring which worked.

The side stand switch bolts to part #14:

 

[Motogiro]

The side stand switch is bolted to the frame.

Shortening the stand makes NO DIFFERENCE in how it pushes in the "switch plunger".

You can clean/ re-grease the internals of the switch while on the bike. Again, a short stool next to the switch (to work on) and it's easily taken apart.
There is a spring inside. It's not nearly as temperamental as the RED kill switch but has been known to fail on rare occasions.

One member had the spring rust away. I suggested a retractable pen spring which worked.

The side stand switch bolts to part #14:

My thought is if the side stand was modified to shorten the leg and it was done above the the spring attachment point on the leg, the spring tension will be less and give way to letting the leg possibly lowering enough, while riding, to shut the engine down.
Still, regardless, a point to check given it is a safety protocol that follows the engine shut down while in gear.
Because the suspension was modified it adds to the possibility that this area should be inspected/test for proper operation.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Never thought about the spring tension but your right..

I've shortened two kick stands for members.

On my own bike, (if you remember), my stand BROKE off where your talking about, at the top, dumping me (0 MPH tip over).

With mine, there was a month wait for a new stand. I ended up re-enforcing it and welding it. I don't know how much time I spent to get it exact, couldn't do it. A knats hair off at the top, makes a bunch off at the end...It worked fine but the stand was higher or lower slightly(don't remember).

Pic's below show one side stand I shortened and welded. Cutting the shaft parallel with the base keeps EVERYTHING lined up, just shorter. The angle at the head is un-touched, spring tension un-touched, etc.

What I cut off at the bottom (about 3/4", prepped for MIG welding) :


Welded the foot back on and cleaned up:


Shortened stand compared to my stock side stand:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Now, that's how I do it.

If, who ever shortened it, did it at the top and DID NOT MOVE the spring mount so it's taught (as stock), sure, that stand, if it bounced around could cause issues.

I think the stand has to be down quite a bit before it kills the engine (I don't kill the engine often in this manner).

Now the OP was riding at a steady speed when he lost power, (looked pretty smooth from the helmet cam), but did mention a dip in the road.

Perhaps the dip caused the stand to "drop away" momentarily BUT it would have come back up as would have the engine power.

I don't think the side stand is the issue (un-less INTERNALLY crapped up), but just a shorter stand, IMO, no..

 

[FinalImpact]

Read most but not all of this. That said, I am assuming the rear shock has a shortened link where the shocks mounts to the S/A and is fitted with the OEM black spring.

What setting is the rear shock on? It has 7 positions. Likely the lower one I suspect....

That spring is suitable for a rider under 175lbs. If you happen to be in the >225lbs + gear, that could make the nose super light and **possibly** explain the head shake.

When the nose is unloaded/bearing little weight, it is very easy for the rider to over steer the bars as they offer LITTLE TO NO RESISTANCE. The one thing that doesn't jive here is you were decelerating. That action lowers the nose. So usually this is apparent when accelerating. That said I have head shake from both accel and decel conditions. The decel was attributed to lost of traction over very fine gravel. The accel remains rider induced by right wrist.

I suggest you get near a wall, gear on, get on the bike and into riding position. Have a friend snap a photo of the bikes stance. Lets see the angles of all critical parts before you go ride again as this could end badly for you as is.

We don't want that!!!

If you can get it back to stock ride height, I would.

 

[BitesWhenBitten]

Read most but not all of this. That said, I am assuming the rear shock has a shortened link where the shocks mounts to the S/A and is fitted with the OEM black spring.

What setting is the rear shock on? It has 7 positions. Likely the lower one I suspect....

That spring is suitable for a rider under 175lbs. If you happen to be in the >225lbs + gear, that could make the nose super light and **possibly** explain the head shake.

When the nose is unloaded/bearing little weight, it is very easy for the rider to over steer the bars as they offer LITTLE TO NO RESISTANCE. The one thing that doesn't jive here is you were decelerating. That action lowers the nose. So usually this is apparent when accelerating. That said I have head shake from both accel and decel conditions. The decel was attributed to lost of traction over very fine gravel. The accel remains rider induced by right wrist.

I suggest you get near a wall, gear on, get on the bike and into riding position. Have a friend snap a photo of the bikes stance. Lets see the angles of all critical parts before you go ride again as this could end badly for you as is.

We don't want that!!!

If you can get it back to stock ride height, I would.

I can do that.
I only weigh 135 sopping wet.

I'm not incredibly familiar with bikes, but if you describe where to look on the rear shock, I can probably find it and figure out what setting it's on.

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[BitesWhenBitten]

Now, that's how I do it.

If, who ever shortened it, did it at the top and DID NOT MOVE the spring mount so it's taught (as stock), sure, that stand, if it bounced around could cause issues.

I think the stand has to be down quite a bit before it kills the engine (I don't kill the engine often in this manner).

Now the OP was riding at a steady speed when he lost power, (looked pretty smooth from the helmet cam), but did mention a dip in the road.

Perhaps the dip caused the stand to "drop away" momentarily BUT it would have come back up as would have the engine power.

I don't think the side stand is the issue (un-less INTERNALLY crapped up), but just a shorter stand, IMO, no..

I don't think they shortened the stand, the stand has a little kick of space between the ground and the end of the foot where it doesn't make contact.

I did ask the original dealer who did the shortening, he hasn't responded yet.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

If that stand wasn't shortened, (with the bike lowered that much), the side stand wouldn't give much "lean" to speak of.

Especially with the stock forks / sag..

In any case, I don't think it's your issue (un-less internally that switch is rusted up / crap inside / bad connection)

 

[BitesWhenBitten]

If that stand wasn't shortened, (with the bike lowered that much), the side stand wouldn't give much "lean" to speak of.

Especially with the stock forks / sag..

In any case, I don't think it's your issue (un-less internally that switch is rusted up / crap inside / bad connection)

Since I had issues with the display cable shorting out, who's to say the kill switch cable isn't in the same path, and that is crunched and shorted?

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Since I had issues with the display cable shorting out, who's to say the kill switch cable isn't in the same path, and that is crunched and shorted?

Nothings saying it's not.

You had one issue, "crunching wires" (a one off issue), has that been found and fixed?
If not, perhaps it's time to cut some insulation away and start digging

Second, the engine power cut off Red Kill Switch is the first thing I'd look at as it's a known issue.(Already stated)

Want to eliminate it altogether? Follow the two wires red KILL SWITCH wires INTO the MAIN HARNESS AND TIE THEM TOGETHER. This will be where the switch plugs into the main harness, under the battery.

Now the switch, possibly associated with "crunchy wires" is completely eliminated.

 

[BitesWhenBitten]

Nothings saying it's not.

You had one issue, "crunching wires" (a one off issue), has that been found and fixed?
If not, perhaps it's time to cut some insulation away and start digging

Second, the engine power cut off Red Kill Switch is the first thing I'd look at as it's a known issue.(Already stated)

Want to eliminate it altogether? Follow the two wires red KILL SWITCH wires INTO the MAIN HARNESS AND TIE THEM TOGETHER. This will be where the switch plugs into the main harness, under the battery.

Now the switch, possibly associated with "crunchy wires" is completely eliminated.

That sounds like a plan, I was watching the one off crunch issue to see if it kept happening or was just a fluke.



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[TownsendsFJR1300]

The "crunch issue", un-less you found it literally with a bad wire, or turning the steering at a specific spot, etc, may NOT EXIST..

The kill switch poor /crappy / worn contacts, can come and go until it gets worse and eventually fails altogether..

Sounds like the crunchy wire issue was your first "come and go" warning. The "engine cut off altogether" was your the "KILL SWITCH CONTACTS FAILED altogether"...

I'm just trying to put all your issues in one "pot". To me, it points to the switch..