Strange Electrical (?) problem

[kevlarorc]

I have a strange problem occurring on my bike.
For about a month now my check-engine light has been coming on. At first it would only come on for a few seconds when travelling at highway speeds. These days it comes on most times I ride. The bike's performance remains the same it has always been.

-Only comes on after 5-10 minutes of riding.
-No fault code is presented on the dash
-Light always turns off when I come to a stop. It used to turn off at lower speeds but now stays on for that, too.
-Last I checked the voltage at a stop read within spec, however I can't tell what it does once I'm moving and the light comes on.

Now for the strange part and the reason I feel it is something electrical:
Several times now when I'm riding home at night my headlight suddenly gets brighter as if I turned my high beams on. About 2 seconds later the check engine light will turn on.

I had the bd43 headlight mod installed but after unhooking the cable and reverting back to the single lamp the symptom still occurs and is even amplified.

Anybody have ideas? I was about to just buy a new battery to test or bring it in to the shop but after seeing the headlight get brighter a few times I figured it might actually be possible to diagnose this thing.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A load test done on a fully charged battery would rule it yea or nay. Its usually free at most auto parts stores, Walmart, etc..

I would check the battery connections that their nice and clean and TIGHT to start with..

Make sure the "RED" positive battery cover is NOT squashed in between the terminal and cable.

 

[OZXJR]

Several times now when I'm riding home at night my headlight suddenly gets brighter as if I turned my high beams on.

This happened to me on a CBR600, the r/r was over charging.

 

[FinalImpact]

In addition to the above, find a way to connect a volt meter and monitor what is happening. You should be able to get a good idea of system health while stationary too.

Test voltage with cool engine (off 4hrs): >12.9v
At idle: >12.9v <14.0v
At 5000 RPM: >13.8v <14.5v

I think i would remove the battery and inspect it for bulging. As it seems possible that overcharging is occurring, but you will know more after taking measurements.

 

[Motogiro]

This happened to me on a CBR600, the r/r was over charging.

That's what it sounds like. You would think the ECU/ECM would pop a code for over voltage. The shunt in the regulator/rectifier is probably failing or has failed. Don't run the bike till you've put a digital voltmeter on it and tested for over voltage. FinalImpact has the specs set up for you. As TownsendsFJR1300 stated, check those connections.
When ever working in this area, wear safety eye ware. Over voltage is a serious platform for battery explosion and can happen without warning. Your exposed to projectile and chemical injury.

 

[kevlarorc]

Thank you all for the replies!

I made some progress but I think I will need to take it all part and do some more testing when I have some more time.

The insulator was not caught in the connection and connections were tight.

I tested voltages

Cold Engine: 12.5 - 12.79v
Idle: 13.6 - 13.9v
5k RPM: 13.9v

However, I did not trigger the check-engine light. To do that I need to go ride it for a few minutes and perhaps rig a way to keep my multimeter connected.

I also removed the battery to inspect for bulging. I'm not sure what is considered bulging but the sides seemed pretty flat to me. I attached some pictures.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your voltages look good. If you can check the voltage while cranking over(a poor mans load test), if it drops much below 10 volts, the battery is on the way out.

If your bike isn't naked, I "bungied" a voltmeter to the upper left side of the fairing and could see the voltage while under way. Just make sure your jumper wires and gauge are good and secure..

BTW, all pic's got deleted when the server here crashed...The joys of re-loading... Not bad once you figure it out..

 

[Motogiro]

I also just thought of a possibility. Check the plug from the regulator/rectifier to make sure the contacts are not burned or corroded. Always check connectors at the battery etc.

 

[kevlarorc]

Thanks again for your replies, guys!

I did the load test Townsend. While cranking the lowest voltage I saw was 10.6v
I also checked connection on the regulator/rectifier, thanks Motogiro. I don't know why I always forget to check the simple stuff first on bikes.

It's definitely over-volting. I wired up the voltmeter and after a quick run around the block I had the check engine light come on. Voltage blasted up to a peak of 17.8v!

So I guess I just need to order a new regulator/rectifier?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sounds like it but wait for for Cliff to chime in.. (and don't ride it, you'll cook the battery, if it isn't already)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvRe9g_2gyM

 

[Motogiro]

Thanks again for your replies, guys!

I did the load test Townsend. While cranking the lowest voltage I saw was 10.6v
I also checked connection on the regulator/rectifier, thanks Motogiro. I don't know why I always forget to check the simple stuff first on bikes.

It's definitely over-volting. I wired up the voltmeter and after a quick run around the block I had the check engine light come on. Voltage blasted up to a peak of 17.8v!

So I guess I just need to order a new regulator/rectifier?

Yup! Sounds like you r/r is toast. Don't run the bike any more until it's repaired. Good job getting the reading!

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[FinalImpact]

Thats crazy a solid state devices is all emotional... i.e. good at home and then flies off the deep end while out and about!

The common cause here is typically from the bike being jump started from a running cage. The bike as seen by the cage is another load which it can sink more current to. Modern cage alternator is good for 150 - 200 AMPS or more. The Fizzer RR only 25. Thus it burns out the current shunt and the voltage climbs...

Seeing that ## really says something about the rest of the electronics reliability!

 

[Motogiro]

Thats crazy a solid state devices is all emotional... i.e. good at home and then flies off the deep end while out and about!

The common cause here is typically from the bike being jump started from a running cage. The bike as seen by the cage is another load which it can sink more current to. Modern cage alternator is good for 150 - 200 AMPS or more. The Fizzer RR only 25. Thus it burns out the current shunt and the voltage climbs...

Seeing that ## really says something about the rest of the electronics reliability!

I've tracked down quite a few thermal intermittent components trouble shooting circuit boards. Hit the component with cool air or refrigerant and it behaves. When it warms it fails.

I agree that many bikes get mistreated by car alternators. Never jump the bike with the car engine running!

 

[kevlarorc]

Just got r/r replaced and after a quick ride I see no problems. I'll update if anything goes wrong again.

Thanks for all of the help guys!

 

[Motogiro]

Thank you for the update! I bet you're good to go!:rockon: