Spark plug

[karl1213]

Anybody know if this spark plug will be OK to use. As you can see the ground electrode has a small chip from where I was using the gap tool.

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[Motogiro]

As long as it's the proper plug and the gap is set there should be no problem with it.

Sent from Moto's Motorola

 

[karl1213]

Thanks mate. I'll give it ago

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[FinalImpact]

I'd file the nubs off so it doesn't glow and induce detonation.

Detonation in single hole could be very destructive to that cylinder.
[MENTION=27512]karl1213[/MENTION]

Edit - ping op!

 

[bricksrheavy]

Just replaced the spark plugs, and I would appreciate if anyone would take the time to have a look at the old ones for sort of a "post mortem" opinion [emoji1]

Looking at them the cylinder #1 plug seems like it was either;

- not replaced at the same time as the others (maybe the PO just gave up on it 'cause it's the hardest one to replace)

- exposed to water the most since the bike is leaned over to the left when on the sidestand

- or a problem with the valves?

Also this tutorial is pure gold and should be linked as much as possible;
How to: Replace your sparkplugs in 20 minutes - Sportbikes.net

 

[FinalImpact]

They look normal for worn plugs. A little hard to tell without a macro zoom at the porcelain area.

 

[bricksrheavy]

Thanks for your reply [emoji106] - my main concern was to make sure they are showing no tell tale signs of a bigger problem.

Went for a ride on the open road this morning and realized the bike now has a distinct vibration at ~8k rpm. Oh boy, here we go again with investigating... [emoji1]

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Agreed, it looks like they passed on replacing the #1 plug last time.

Suggestion, the rubber spark plug caps, that "snap" into the valve cover harden up over time/heat.

It IS very possible a cap is NOT fully down/clipped onto the plug.

If you gently remove just the caps(maybe an inch), put a little di-electric grease ON THE EDGE
of the rubber cap(where it meets the valve cover).

It will install WAY EASIER and you'll hear and feel it actually click to the spark plug.


*I gather you didn't do anything else to the bike, just the plugs?


BTW, I've used the single ground Iridiums (and still have a set installed) however they DO wear (gap increases).
The stock plugs when pulled, looked great and lasted longer than the iridiums.

IMO, I'd install the stock style plug as they seemed to work the best and last the longest.


Question, how did you get the plugs set down in the holes W/O dropping them?


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[bricksrheavy]

...
It IS very possible a cap is NOT fully down/clipped onto the plug.
If you gently remove just the caps(maybe an inch), put a little di-electric grease ON THE EDGE
of the rubber cap(where it meets the valve cover).
...

Thanks for the tip, REALLY hoping the vibration problem solution is as simple as that

*I gather you didn't do anything else to the bike, just the plugs?

Nope, just the plugs

BTW, I've used the single ground Iridiums (and still have a set installed) however they DO wear (gap increases).
The stock plugs when pulled, looked great and lasted longer than the iridiums.
IMO, I'd install the stock style plug as they seemed to work the best and last the longest.

Agreed, I didn't find it all that difficult to replace the plugs, but since everything is so tightly spaced in there it does require to "manhandle" the wires a bit which I hate doing so maybe next time I'll drop the radiator.

Question, how did you get the plugs set down in the holes W/O dropping them?


.
.

I put them in the spark plug socket that comes with the OEM toolkit and simply lowered in the hole, the socket has a rubber "pinch" on the inside which keeps the plug from falling out when you insert it so it was only a matter of patience and having skinny hands [emoji1]

 

[bricksrheavy]

Update;
Problem solved [emoji106] - removed the plugs, loosened & re-tightened the sparks and then made DAMN sure the plugs are sat all the way down when putting them back in.

Thanks for the help! [emoji106]

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Update;
Problem solved [emoji106] - removed the plugs, loosened & re-tightened the sparks and then made DAMN sure the plugs are sat all the way down when putting them back in.

Thanks for the help! [emoji106]

Excellent!

Actually, I think your the first to confirm not having the caps on fully causing the vibs!

 

[bricksrheavy]

Never owned another inline four so I don't know whether this is common, but this bike has the ability to accentuate even the slightest loose part to the extreme.

Had the Givi crash bar bolt come loose (the one located right in front of the radiator), and the resonance travelled all the way under the seat making me think something's wrong with the top end of the engine[emoji1]

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My friends old BMW in-line 4 was smooth in the entire RPM range.

The FJR has very little vib's.

The FZ6 is probably the worst with vibs unless you have everything dead nuts adjusted right, tight, etc..