Need Help Rusty bits in the coolant

[Gary in NJ]

When you hold the piston at TDC and add a constant flow of compressed air (100psi), that air will look for a place to escape. If something in the combustion chamber has failed, air will flow from the site of the failure;

If there is air flow from the throttle body, an intake valve or seat has failed.

If there is air flow from the exhaust, an exhaust valve or seat has failed.

If there is air flow from the engine breather, a ring has failed.

If there are bubbles in the coolant, the head gasket has failed. If it’s real bad, you can spray the head with soapy water and see movement externally. But that type of problem is usually in a non-running engine.

Some air escape is natural, that’s why if the cylinder can hold 80% or more you don’t go looking for a problem. It’s when it’s below 80% there is an unexpected amount of loss.

In order to run the rest you will need a leak down tester (Harbor Freight) and an air compressor…and a friend to hold the wrench that holds the cylinder at TDC.

 

[MrMogensen]

Gary =>

The thing that confuses me a bit is that I think, if there is a leak, it's between oil and coolant and not necessarily to combustion chamber.
I will get hold of a leak down tester. I have a compressor that can reach 10 bar - especially if it's just to apply pressure and not a constant airflow (small tank).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Pic of an old chain saw with the leak down test (2 stroke, piston at TDC, a McCullough).

You can see how low it went so there's a bunch of blow by past the rings..
(Un-repairable)

 

[MrMogensen]

Sweet - Found out my uncle has a leak down tester from my late granddad (he was a aeroplane mechanic). Those two taught me a bunch of stuff. The tester should still be in good condition.

 

[pmmcanon]

Coming back to the acid fluid you found, it can be a good idea to take the bike to a workshop where they have a closed circuit cleaning machine, this will deep clean and flush most of the deposits. Liqui Moli has a decent cleaner. Good luck

 

[MrMogensen]

Finally assembled (almost). Haven’t had so much time so took at while.
Snowed a few days ago (about 6-8 cm) so that didn’t exactly make me hurry up either.

Pressure tests didn’t reveal anything. Cleaned up everything as good as possible. Cooling system filled up with water (demineralised) and going to flush for coolant when I am done with adjustments (idle + synchronise throttle bodies).

Question regarding the throttle bodies adjustment:
Question regarding the throttle bodies adjustment:
I got a fine carbtune instrument but can’t find the manual. Looking in the FZ6 service manual and following that is says to first adjust idle and then throttle bodies.
As I reach optimal 218mmHg (+/-) the idle has risen. Adjusting it back down sends throttle bodies up to 230-240… it’s a never ending story?

What am I doing wrong?
It’s been 3-4 years or so since I did this last time.

Once it’s ready for the road with fresh coolant I will, after a few hundred km, drain and renew coolant again. Depending on what I see when I drain I can repeat. That’s the plan…

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Don't worry about the Hg's . I'm at sea level and it won't match up either..

Just sync the rest of the bodies to the primary (wrong word and I forgot which one) adjuster.
Re-check and adjust at 4,000 RPM's. You'll still get the good idle #'s and also at 4k it'll be smoother.

You have 10mm's of adjustment but some patience, a large fan and some time and you can get it real close.

Here''s mine after a valve adjustment:

 

[MrMogensen]

Just sync the rest of the bodies to the primary (wrong word and I forgot which one) adjuster.
Re-check and adjust at 4,000 RPM's. You'll still get the good idle #'s and also at 4k it'll be smoother.

So just leave number 1 as it is and sync the rest accordingly.
Do you then adjust idle up to 4000 or have someone hold the throttle close to 4000 rpm (if it makes any difference?
At 4000 rpm then adjust 2+3+4 to 1 and then (depending on your answer above question) idle down or release throttle and that’s it?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Don't touch the idle screw for the 4K adjustment.

You'll hold it 4 K for maybe 3 seconds, just enough to hold the RPMs steady.

The throttle is fine and likely one cylinder will be much higher even thou their good at idle.

It doesn't matter which one you adjust first, second, etc. Just adjust to #1, they should all pretty much fall into place.. At idle and 4k. Just get a happy medium.

*After 4k, that adjustment does very little.. IME, it is worth the extra effort..

And don't adjust the set screw between the two throttle bodies UN-less you know they've been tampered with...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates?

 

[MrMogensen]

Any updates?

Engine is running. Still no update on coolant since it has only idled for calibration.
Forks still not back on. We are about to put the house on sale so we can move closer to stepsons school (after summer) so that takes some time away… Besides weather has been terrible (lots of rain and even some snowy days… in April). In a week the bike should be all ready to go!

 

[joacofz6]

Engine is running. Still no update on coolant since it has only idled for calibration.
Forks still not back on. We are about to put the house on sale so we can move closer to stepsons school (after summer) so that takes some time away… Besides weather has been terrible (lots of rain and even some snowy days… in April). In a week the bike should be all ready to go!

Keep us posted please!!... I'm facing a similar issue on my bike

 

[BWillie]

Holy thread revival batman!

Lurking as I have an issue with a coolant leak from one of the hoses from the coolant pump (lower right side). There's a steel pipe which T's off just below the coolant reservoir which on mine has turned to rust. Might be the culprit for you OP?