rear sprocket size

kennedyted

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so i had to change my stock battleax as it was boxxed out at 6k miles lmao, i get it off and the sprocket says 46, i could be wrong but i thought stock was 45, why would somebody change it? guessing torque etc, but like a rear end on a sports car, at a certain ratio the rpms are ridiculous at highway speeds. my question is does it do anything besides that, and what amount of rpm change is it at same speed same gear as stock, sorry if i seem to be rambling, yet another mod i didnt know i had

on a side note, ive had the bike over 2 yrs, was not aware chain needs cleaning...yeah i know, idiot, but id like to take it off for a thorough cleaning and lube but i dont see a removable link, how do i go about it
 
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so i had to change my stock battleax as it was boxxed out at 6k miles lmao, i get it off and the sprocket says 46, i could be wrong but i thought stock was 45, why would somebody change it? guessing torque etc, but like a rear end on a sports car, at a certain ratio the rpms are ridiculous at highway speeds. my question is does it do anything besides that, and what amount of rpm change is it at same speed same gear as stock, sorry if i seem to be rambling, yet another mod i didnt know i had

The stock rear sprocket is a 46 tooth. The stock front is a 16 tooth. I went up one tooth on the front to a 17. The stock speedo reads around 3 to 5 mph to fast. When I went to the 17 tooth it reads dead on now.

I think it is one of the best mods I have done for the type of riding I do. It feels like a different bike now after I made the change. Some people like going down to a 15 tooth for more low end power and faster acceleration. I mostly do touring and commuting 90 miles round trip to work.
 
The stock rear sprocket is a 46 tooth. The stock front is a 16 tooth. I went up one tooth on the front to a 17. The stock speedo reads around 3 to 5 mph to fast. When I went to the 17 tooth it reads dead on now.

I think it is one of the best mods I have done for the type of riding I do. It feels like a different bike now after I made the change. Some people like going down to a 15 tooth for more low end power and faster acceleration. I mostly do touring and commuting 90 miles round trip to work.

Keep in mind that your odometer is now off, even though your speedo is on.
 
i discovered with my CBR that euro bikes and US bikes have different stock sprocket sizes, the US one is geared for slightly more torque
 
Keep in mind that your odometer is now off, even though your speedo is on.

Doesn't the speedo and odo work off the same sensor? :confused:

The chain is removable with a chain tool kit. They are on sale at Cycle Gear right now for like $29. If the chain is in good shape, clean it with some kerosene. Still if you're going to ever do a new chain that tool is a great deal right now.
 
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Doesn't the speedo and odo work off the same sensor? :confused:

The chain is removable with a chain tool kit. They are on sale at Cycle Gear right now for like $29. If the chain is in good shape, clean it with some kerosene. Still if you're going to ever do a new chain that tool is a great deal right now.

Umm,Cliff:confused:Not sure about US models but,If he breaks the stock chain he will need to remove a/the link & replace it with either a new rivot/clip master link:don'tknow:
 
it's possibly easier to remove the swing arm to get the chain off in one peice, you'll need to take the exhaust headers off though (be careful not to snap a bolt like i did though)

otherwise you need a chain riveter and breaker, and a dremel type tool to grind the head of the rivet off.

don't use clip links, they come off too easily and if your chain snaps there's a good chance of a severe crash/injury and being hit in the leg by a chain at highspeed.
 
Doesn't the speedo and odo work off the same sensor? :confused:

The chain is removable with a chain tool kit. They are on sale at Cycle Gear right now for like $29. If the chain is in good shape, clean it with some kerosene. Still if you're going to ever do a new chain that tool is a great deal right now.

Yes, they work off the same signal, but once that signal enters the speedo, it's split, and some form of "programmed" error is introduced to the speedometer while the odometer remains on.
 
I recently replaced my chain and sprockets and replaced the stock 46 with a 47 cos they didn't have 46 in stock. The speedo is so inaccurate anyway one tooth isn't going to make that much difference.
 
I would double check that if I were you.

Lol I just posted something similar in another thread but yeah most people think that if the speedo is fast then the odo must be too but nope, the odo is dead on from the factory so if you slow down the speedo to be accurate the odo slows down and is off. In the other thread i said dont ask me how it works like that because I ain't got a clue but I do know that's how it works lol. You wouldn't be able to shine some light on why this is would you?
 
Shortly after I bought my bike I checked the speedometer with my gps and sure enough the speedometer was reading fast and the odometer was dead on. After I changed the front sprocket I checked it again with the gps and the speedometer reads dead on and the odometer is off by .04 of a mile. So for every 100 miles it says I have gone I have actually gone 104.
 
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Lol I just posted something similar in another thread but yeah most people think that if the speedo is fast then the odo must be too but nope, the odo is dead on from the factory so if you slow down the speedo to be accurate the odo slows down and is off. In the other thread i said dont ask me how it works like that because I ain't got a clue but I do know that's how it works lol. You wouldn't be able to shine some light on why this is would you?

I'm not an EE so this is based on what I've read. Basically the error is programmed into the circuitry even though it comes from the same signal. Once the signal enters the housing it's split and the error is introduced after the split.
 
I'm not an EE so this is based on what I've read. Basically the error is programmed into the circuitry even though it comes from the same signal. Once the signal enters the housing it's split and the error is introduced after the split.

That's close enough explanation. It's all 1s and 0s. . . but ya, just cuz its the same wire, doesn't mean it treats both parts equally.

I'd expect that over the life of the vehicle an ODO error would matter and they'd be sued!!!!!! But a little speedo error. . . nbd

46 stock as said all over. . .
 
That's close enough explanation. It's all 1s and 0s. . . but ya, just cuz its the same wire, doesn't mean it treats both parts equally.

I'd expect that over the life of the vehicle an ODO error would matter and they'd be sued!!!!!! But a little speedo error. . . nbd

46 stock as said all over. . .

Exactly. It'd be odometer fraud. But it only becomes an issue when someone wants to sell it.
 
I kinda like knowing that if I am doing 65 ks in a 60 or 108 in a hundred,I'm ok, the plods will leave me well alone. On the commute its never an issue, On the freeway/highway I just keep an eye on it and know that once I'm at 110+ I'm sailing close to the wind, and if the party lights go on it might be me
 
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