Rear brake pads

[Rebuilt]

This is going to sound like a silly question to most of you but in order to save a lot of money at the garage .... can someone guide me atleast on how to change my back brake pads ?

i have the pads but not overly confident dismantleing brakes to change them over
So if there is a simple guide to show it would be much appreciated :thumbup:

Fazer FZS 1999 model ?

 

[Nelly]

This is going to sound like a silly question to most of you but in order to save a lot of money at the garage .... can someone guide me atleast on how to change my back brake pads ?

i have the pads but not overly confident dismantleing brakes to change them over
So if there is a simple guide to show it would be much appreciated :thumbup:

Fazer FZS 1999 model ?

Hi,
I'm also not the most confident person in the world when it comes to spannering. However, the rear pads are supper easy to change out.
Basically:
http://www.ronniesmailorder.com/fiche_section_detail.asp
http://www.bonemanfz6.com/Mods/mod_ebcpads.htm
1 put bike on centre stand.
2 Undo #14 with a screw driver, this is the locking screw for the pad pin. Then loosen the pad pin itself #13. Mine was fairly tight and i didn’t think it was going to come out at all.
Undo the two bolts on the rear calliper the left one # 9 = 13mm the right one is #15 = 15mm.
Once these are removed the calliper will slide off the disk with a bit of a pull and a wiggle. The two pads will then drop down and remain connected to the #13 the rear brake pad pin. You can now unscrew #13 fully and clean it to remove any crap. It needs to be re-greased with decent high temperature grease, I use copper grease. There is a metal pad plate left on the hanger. Make sure you don’t lose this.
At this point the pads are easy to remove make sure that there isn't a thin piece of material left on the back of each pad. #19 this is a calliper shim, or anti chatter shim and sits between the metal plate that holds the pad and the back of the pad. Again I reused mine.
Now you need to inspect and possibly replace #8 the brake support plate, I have reused mine (rightly or wrongly).
Inspect the calliper and particularly the piston #4, where it pushes out from the calliper to engage the pad it collects a lot of crap. Clean this off with a clean dry cloth. Also remove and clean the support spring #8 as this also accumulates brake dust and crap.
Technically you should also replace the piston O-rings. I have yet to do this so will not comment on it. Yamaha say that they should be replaced every 2 years. townsendfjr (Scott) has just done his and also posted on it.
Once the piston is clean you should be able to push it back into the calliper to make space for the new pads to clear the disk (do not press the rear brake pedal).
Now you need get the metal calliper holders #17 - 18 and put the shims into them before you put the new pads into the metal holders. There are left and right pads and you need to ensure that they are facing the right way in the calliper. Do not get any grease on the brake pad surface as this will severely affect their braking efficiency.
Whilst holding the new pads and associated shims in the callipers re-insert the pad pin #13. You need to torque it up to 17Nm. The retaining plug #14 is torque to 3Nm.
Slide the calliper back on to the disk and very importantly ensure that the pads sit in the pad plate. The pads have a lug that fits snugly to the pad plate surface although it often wants to sit above the pad plate. This lug essentially locks the pads into the brake hanger.
Once the pads are seated correctly you can have a look at the calliper sliding pins. You will notice that the left one # 15 looks quite grotty. Inside the rubber seal you will find a sleeve #7 this sits inside a tube #6 both can easily be pushed out and cleaned and re-greased with high temperature brake grease. Slide them back in and ensure that the seal sits correctly in the grove of the sleeve.
Re-grease the bolt and tighten it up with your fingers until it meets the hanger surface.
The right bolt doesn’t have a sleeve so I pulled a clean rag through it several times to get rid of the crap and re-greased it with high temperature brake grease. Again tighten it up with your fingers before the final torque. The left bolt is torque to 22Nm and the right bolt is torque to 27Nm.
Before you ride the bike you will need to press the rear brake pedal several times to get the piston to seat against the new brake pads.
I think that’s about it, this “How to” in no way constitutes a comprehensive servicing guide of the rear brake calliper. I’m sure that the guys will chip in where I have been mechanically suspected. Some of the part names may not be correct and torque values should be checked against Yamaha’s own specifications.
As with all maintenance you carry out on your bike, if you feel that you are not able to perform the tasks safely, get some professional help. I would highly recommend purchasing a Haynes manual ISBN 978 1 84425 751 5 (by far the best money I have spent on the bike). I would also like to thank Boneman (Dave) for keeping brilliant FZ6 site going and allowing us free access and advice.
Neil
[edit Bollocks I just re-read your post and your bike is a completely different model so none of the above applies to you]

 

[Rebuilt]

Well it started well ... thanks for that guide you never know i may upgrade 1 day but mine in such good condition i think i`ll hang onto it for now ...

looked at pm ... looked at bonemans guide n makes a lot more sense now ... :thumbup:

Will give it a shot in morning
much appreciated :thumbup: