Positive wire (12V) for heated grip install

[Johnson]

Any recommendations on where to connect positive wire for heated grips on a 05 FZ6.

I am using these grips if it helps:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009Z1KQ2M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You can set it up thru a relay.

The relay hooked direct to the battery, the "trigger" wire, to the right side, front directional running light.

This way, it'll only be able to be turned on when the ignition is on.

No dead battery should you forget to turn it off..

 

[Motogiro]

A good engineering practice for heated grips is to use a power relay that gets it's source directly from the battery and is controlled by a keyed ignition switch source. If you search you should find threads on power relays. If not I will help..

 

[FinalImpact]

A good engineering practice for heated grips is to use a power relay that gets it's source directly from the battery and is controlled by a keyed ignition switch source. If you search you should find threads on power relays. If not I will help..

Exhibit A, a switched source with a fuse and no splices or taps to OEM harness. Item is $6 Bussman BP/HHH-RP

// paste from build thread.

Fuel Management: Don't follow the directions verbatim.
Reliability is important so I wrote the manufacture and asked about the Fuse rating requirement for the fuel controller. The instructions state to Clamp on to the "TAIL LAMP CIRCUIT" downstream of the 10A fuse to power the Bazzaz Z-Fi Fuel Controller (FC).

Guess what size the manufacture suggest the FC have? A 10A fuse! BAZZAZ - this is STUPID! If I follow your directions and brake light circuit pops the fuse, my engine dies and I am at ask risk!! Relying on the BRAKE FUSE to power the FC (ah - fuel injectors), that's just STUPID!

Folks, don't follow everything to the letter from Manufactures. This clearly needs its OWN fuse from a switched source. :thumbup:

Taillight fuse 10.0 A (OEM)
Fuel injection system fuse 10.0 A (OEM)
Bazzaz FC Fuse 10.0 A (Add on)

Just thought I'd share...

Item is: Bussman BP/HHH-RP

EDIT: 2015-02-06 = FUSED SOLUTION!

To power this mess!!!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It appears to come with a fused plug:






From the reviews:

"As tested by me the draw is approx 2.5 amps on the highest setting, less on lower setting, on just the battery (engine off, no generator). Ease of installation onto the handlebar is what can be expected for replacement grips; YMMV depending on many factors. In my case I had to use glue on the throttle grip, which means my throttle tube will now need be replaced if I change grips again; your case needs not necessarily be the same. The battery connector cable was long enough to allow me to thread it under the tank, with an appropriate spare amount easily gathered in a neat bundle near the battery; it is fused with a 4 A replaceable automotive fuse (no spare provided,"



.

 

[Motogiro]

The main idea in suggesting a switched power relay to supply the grip heater, is if the grip heater controller fails and locks on, it can't draw power from the battery when the rider has turned the bike off.

Since the headlamp circuit (on the FZ6) does not activate until the engine has started it might be the optimal source to power the relay coil which might also be used to power other ancillaries. This would make more current available for starting the bike as was the design the engineers came up with for the headlight circuit supply.

The only downside of using this circuit is if you shut the bike off using the emergency kill switch the headlight circuit remains on until the key has been turned to off.

You would still fuse the relay right at it 12 vdc positive source.

 

[trepetti]

Any recommendations on where to connect positive wire for heated grips on a 05 FZ6.

I am using these grips if it helps:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009Z1KQ2M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will go one step further. Instead of piggybacking the fuse onto another circuit and risk taking out the host fuse, I installed a PDU like this one: FUZEBLOCKS.COM. Now are you add accessories (horns, other heated gear, etc) you have a convenient, central place to connect to. There are lots of these units available, and some higher-priced ones have some intelligence built in, like circuit breakers instead of fuses, etc. If you are like me, the grips won't be the last thing you add.

 

[Motogiro]

I will go one step further. Instead of piggybacking the fuse onto another circuit and risk taking out the host fuse, I installed a PDU like this one: FUZEBLOCKS.COM. Now are you add accessories (horns, other heated gear, etc) you have a convenient, central place to connect to. There are lots of these units available, and some higher-priced ones have some intelligence built in, like circuit breakers instead of fuses, etc. If you are like me, the grips won't be the last thing you add.

Using a power relay that is running direct off the battery is not a piggyback to other fused circuits on the bike. Control of the relay (coil) is of minimal current requirements and in fact is no more a design threat to existing circuits than the Fuzeblock. The Fuzeblock is a really great way to go if you can spend the money. I really like the way it makes additional hookups neat and easy. Again if you can use your Fuzeblock or any power relay it would be best to use the FZ6 headlamp relay output as the switched coil control to take advantage of the lower current management design.

 

[trepetti]

Using a power relay that is running direct off the battery is not a piggyback to other fused circuits on the bike. Control of the relay (coil) is of minimal current requirements and in fact is no more a design threat to existing circuits than the Fuzeblock. The Fuzeblock is a really great way to go if you can spend the money. I really like the way it makes additional hookups neat and easy. Again if you can use your Fuzeblock or any power relay it would be best to use the FZ6 headlamp relay output as the switched coil control to take advantage of the lower current management design.

Understood Cliff, apologies if it came off as though I was disagreeing. My point was supposed to be the benefit of a scale-able solution to a very common problem.

 

[FinalImpact]

I'm guessing that was aimed at the piggyback item I posted. It does not rely on host fuse and if you look at the brake light wire into the oem fuse block it is double the size of the wire leaving and headed to the brake light.

That said you could install a 0.5 amp fuse and simply use that as switched source for a relay. I offer this as you don't have to know wire colors, which wire, or untape the oem harness. You simply connect and go.

The point is readers/riders need to make a proper connection to the bike that does not compromise its reliability. This offers a hassle free option without cutting, splicing, tapping or hacking. I would throw heat shrink tubing over any wire being routed through the chassis. It need not be shank, just leave it loose and route the wire.

Riding is risky at times and we don't need lighting or engine fialures when pulling into traffic.

 

[Johnson]

It appears to come with a fused plug:






From the reviews:

"As tested by me the draw is approx 2.5 amps on the highest setting, less on lower setting, on just the battery (engine off, no generator). Ease of installation onto the handlebar is what can be expected for replacement grips; YMMV depending on many factors. In my case I had to use glue on the throttle grip, which means my throttle tube will now need be replaced if I change grips again; your case needs not necessarily be the same. The battery connector cable was long enough to allow me to thread it under the tank, with an appropriate spare amount easily gathered in a neat bundle near the battery; it is fused with a 4 A replaceable automotive fuse (no spare provided,"



.

What are the implications that it comes with a fuse?

I have 0 electrical experience/knowledge and mistakenly assumed it would be an easy (or perhaps it is for more experienced users) install...

I think I understand the purpose of the relay but would it be ok to go ahead and install without one with the understood risk that if I don't shut off the grips, they will continue to drain the battery with the bike off?

Ugh, just trying to extend my riding season as long as possible but windchill is killing my hands and I don't feel comfortable with lack of dexterity with winter gloves.

Regardless, I appreciate all the input from everyone, what an awesome board!

 

[Motogiro]

What are the implications that it comes with a fuse?

I have 0 electrical experience/knowledge and mistakenly assumed it would be an easy (or perhaps it is for more experienced users) install...

I think I understand the purpose of the relay but would it be ok to go ahead and install without one with the understood risk that if I don't shut off the grips, they will continue to drain the battery with the bike off?

Ugh, just trying to extend my riding season as long as possible but windchill is killing my hands and I don't feel comfortable with lack of dexterity with winter gloves.

Regardless, I appreciate all the input from everyone, what an awesome board!

It comes with a fuse as with any fused circuit to provide fire and electrical isolation protection. If there is a malfunction in the circuit or the wiring becomes short circuited the fuse protects the circuit and other circuits by opening and disabling current from continuing in the branch circuit it protects.

You could probably wire it direct to the battery but I have no information on how this setup is controlled and the optimal default could be a separate fused power relay to power the add-on using the bike's active circuitry as a controller to insure the device is deactivated when you walk away. Your unit probably uses a semiconductor solid state switch commonly called a SCR (silicon controlled rectifier) that is regulated using a Pulse Width Modulator as a temperature control. The main issue is that semiconductors can fail as an open or closed circuit. If the SCR fails as a closed circuit it will pull the battery down pretty quickly, With the power relay as a default, when the bike key is turned off, the heated grips are for sure turned off.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

From reading the reviews (LOTS of information there), there is NO auto turn off after time, it stays on if left on...

There's also available a direct hook up to the battery(fused) option.

If the OP feels comfortable with that set up, it'd be the easiest.

Relays are used thru out the bike and using one would be the safest, no chance of running down the battery set up you can do.
Cliff or Randy have pic's of the set up you'd need... (not hard at all).

With a simply relay and a Posi Tap tapped into the front running light, it simply lets the relay know it's OK to turn on and you have power direct(fused) from the battery.

Re tapping into the line with a "Posi Tap", many manufacturers (including Hyper lights for instance) include them in their kits.
Very simple to install, minimal intrusion. Been using them for 7 years on many machines, NEVER been an issue.
And you don't have to run many feet of wire to reach from one area to another...

 

[Johnson]

From reading the reviews (LOTS of information there), there is NO auto turn off after time, it stays on if left on...

There's also available a direct hook up to the battery(fused) option.

If the OP feels comfortable with that set up, it'd be the easiest.

Relays are used thru out the bike and using one would be the safest, no chance of running down the battery set up you can do.
Cliff or Randy have pic's of the set up you'd need... (not hard at all).

With a simply relay and a Posi Tap tapped into the front running light, it simply lets the relay know it's OK to turn on and you have power direct(fused) from the battery.

Re tapping into the line with a "Posi Tap", many manufacturers (including Hyper lights for instance) include them in their kits.
Very simple to install, minimal intrusion. Been using them for 7 years on many machines, NEVER been an issue.
And you don't have to run many feet of wire to reach from one area to another...

I understand the risk of connecting directly to the battery since it does not auto turn off however I did not see the option to connect directly to the battery with the supplied kit (could be wrong). This video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4yI8gEHIY4) shows connecting the black wire with a ring enclosure to the battery but the red wire is split to an existing 12V wire. If I could get another ring closure could I attach both directly to the battery or is there another option.

I am planning on getting my valves checked this weekend, perhaps I can get the shop to install the relay as I do not feel too comfortable with this.

Riding in 30 degree on highways speeds was not a fun trip this morning...

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

I have these grips installed. I used a fuse tap like others suggested, but I also just used the inline fuse they provided as well. So I assume that's okay? So the positive wire from the grips goes from the controller, through the provided inline fuse, and then into the fuse for the 'tail'.
The negative is another story. Unless you want to run the negative cable all the way back to the battery(Which I guess is correct procedure) I just bolted the terminal to the frame right there by the fuse box with a nut and bolt.

These grips definitely do not need to be glued on. At least not with a G2 Throttle Tamer. It takes quite a bit of brute force to get it on the throttle tube, and the handlebar on the clutch side. Hairspray or soapy water help.

Make sure to take note that they have made each grip specifically for each side of the bike! I almost sent them back because I didn't realize there was a difference between the two and was trying to put the throttle side grip over the bare bar. The throttle side is wayy too big to go over the bar, each side is made to fit. These are not squishy rubber grips, they're rigid grips, no expanding to fit like a normal grip.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I understand the risk of connecting directly to the battery since it does not auto turn off however I did not see the option to connect directly to the battery with the supplied kit (could be wrong). This video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4yI8gEHIY4) shows connecting the black wire with a ring enclosure to the battery but the red wire is split to an existing 12V wire. If I could get another ring closure could I attach both directly to the battery or is there another option...

** Depending on how long the wires are, you can simply attach two "circular battery wire ends" (any hardware store will have these) to the controller and hook directly to the battery. The controller is already fused so that's NOT an issue (BUT it won't turn off with the ignition). With where the FZ's battery is, there should be plenty of wire to connect direct to the battery..

 

[Motogiro]

I have these grips installed. I used a fuse tap like others suggested, but I also just used the inline fuse they provided as well. So I assume that's okay? So the positive wire from the grips goes from the controller, through the provided inline fuse, and then into the fuse for the 'tail'.
The negative is another story. Unless you want to run the negative cable all the way back to the battery(Which I guess is correct procedure) I just bolted the terminal to the frame right there by the fuse box with a nut and bolt.

How much current do the heated grips use? This is an important question. If there is a malfunction in your heated grips you may blow the fuse for your running/tail lights.
Keep in mind although plenty safe, wire gauges will not be much over the rating for the circuits they are designed to supply current for. I would consider heated grips a higher current device as compared to your GPS or phone charger that you might piggyback to and existing light circuit with little impact except for a short that would still leave you without lights.
The idea is that these piggybacks can work fine if they can support the device current requirements but they are not a good idea or engineering practice because failure can compromise the the circuit they are piggybacked to.

To summarize: This set up is not safe. This will also cause voltage drop for the grips and the tail light. Run a power relay!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

How much current do the heated grips use? This is an important question. If there is a malfunction in your heated grips you may blow the fuse for your running/tail lights.

From my post, #5, 2.5 amps PER a customer on HIGH. The product spec's don't state it..

 

[Motogiro]

Also you may want to do this yourself or have someone with experience wire this up and do the connections. The power relay can be used with pretty much any accessory you might add to your bike. The power relay is a common type that is carried by every auto parts store.

Have fun, be safe!

Here's a diagram...

 

[Johnson]

How much current do the heated grips use? This is an important question. If there is a malfunction in your heated grips you may blow the fuse for your running/tail lights.
Keep in mind although plenty safe, wire gauges will not be much over the rating for the circuits they are designed to supply current for. I would consider heated grips a higher current device as compared to your GPS or phone charger that you might piggyback to and existing light circuit with little impact except for a short that would still leave you without lights.
The idea is that these piggybacks can work fine if they can support the device current requirements but they are not a good idea or engineering practice because failure can compromise the the circuit they are piggybacked to.

To summarize: This set up is not safe. This will also cause voltage drop for the grips and the tail light. Run a power relay!

I am sure there is, but I'll ask anyways, is there a guide on here to run a power relay?