Mountain Bike Knowledge???

[DefyInertia]

Looking to get back into biking as I'll be moving to the Bay Area this fall. I used to race cross country but that was over 10 years ago as a kid.

He told me he'd let it go for $150

Schwinn Mesa Disc, MTB, 19" frame

Good deal? I'm 6'3" and will be doing a lot of mixed riding....not looking to break records or anything, I just want an efficient bike for mostly off-road and some on-road duty.

I already sent :mikebike: a PM....

Thanks!

 

[DefyInertia]

damn only $500 new? i think i paid almost 1k at the time, but who knows. I'll make it $150.

I wanna say its about 8-9 years old. it has RockShox Jett forks, Shimano Avilo components. everything is in perfect working order. i rode it earlier this year for just a few miles, then went back to my $2k road bike, i think it needed some adjustment on the rear derailer but other wise its perfect. the disc brakes are GREAT, i used to ride all the time in some nasty muck and they work great in any weather, i have had zero issues with them, they are cable driven calipers and i have only done minor adjustments. the bike was "tuned up" prolly about 3-4 years ago which is the last time i really rode it.

I kinda sorta know the guy from doing track days...he's got a good rep

 

[nimzotech]

Sounds like a nice bike, but your height might be incompatible with the bike's frame. I'm 6 ft tall and my mountain bike has a 21" frame; yet I still think the handle bars could be higher.

The general rule of the thumb when choosing a proper bike size is to simply stand up straight next to the bike. The bike's seat should reach up to about your hip height. Furthermore, when sitting on the bicycle and pedalling your legs should be ALMOST fully extended on the down stroke leg extension.

I'd go for a 21" + frame. Cheers.

 

[DefyInertia]

Thank you

I like to attempt to do trials and I like downhill...does that make a difference? really though, I plan on laying down some miles so maybe I need a bigger one.

 

[Hellgate]

I'd say its a bit too small. I'm 6 with a 33 inch inseam and ride a 18 or 19, depends on the brand. I'd suggest a 20 or 21. If you get a frame that is too small the top tube will be too short for you.

 

[blubullit]

Hi Defy. I thought I would put my two bits in as I am quite passionate about the subject. You said you like to do down hills as well as put on the miles. I would suggest looking at something with around 4 or 5 inches of travel in the rear.
The frame designs and efficientcy of the shocks these days are light years ahead of 10 years ago. In fact the majority of pro cross country racers have converted to dual suspension because it doesnt beat you up as much.
The Schwinn you are looking at likely has a 71 degree head angle which is perfect for climbing hills and dangling single track but.... As the trail heads down you will loose all stability and you will feel like all of your weight is on your wrists. The bike will feel twitchy and by no means will it insill confidence if you like to go fast over loose/uneven terrain, and forget about gettin airbourne at all, period. If you are anywhere near 190 or 200 pounds you will start breaking parts really fast if you push that bike.
I ride a down hill/freeride specific bike with 8.5 inches of travel front and back. It weighs 41 pounds and has a 65 degree head angle. I am 6'2 and weigh 230 pounds. I have put in multiple 100 plus kilometer days on it simply because the suspension design smooths out the riders pedal stroke and transfers it effieciently. Dont let anyone tell you you need a 20 pound bike to ride up hill. You will enjoy the trails much more when you can scream down from the top confidently.
If you really want to see what the new bikes are capable of go to a ski resort with lift accessed trails. It is the equivilent of trackdays for street bikes.

 

[wrightme43]

The new Cafe (racer) Society: The drill bike.

 

[DefyInertia]

In a perfect world, I'd like a full suspension bike with all mountain dimensions and suspension that you can lock. do those exist?

blubullit, my last bike was a rigid 16.5" Cannondale m300, IIRC. I bought it in '94 or '95 and turned it into a real featherweight. Nonetheless, that 41 pound bike you posted looks like a blast and I'm sure I'll get into all that over the next couple years and beyond. After all, I'll be living right across the bay from Marin County, CA!

I think I just got excited about this bike because it was so cheap and has good brakes. Thanks for all the input everyone, it's going to be hard to pass but it's certainly looking like I will.

 

[DefyInertia]

The new Cafe (racer) Society: The drill bike.

:rof:

Disc brakes! Can you stunt that thing? I want to see dyno sheets...electric motor = TORQUE :rockon:

 

[anot]

I would definately go with a full suspension bike, I made the transition a couple of years ago and have never looked back.

On many bikes it is possible to lock the suspension for better performance uphill, so check the suspension for that!

 

[xj750_Pete]

If you aren't going to do major off roading like jumping off 5 foot cliffs and going down rocky/bumpy hills, I would go with a nice hardtail with full disk set up. Right now I only do road bikes, but I would like to get start riding in the dirt. If I were to purchase a mountain bike, I would go with this.

 

[mikebike]

if you want something that rides like a hardtail (efficently) but that you can hit the rough stuff too...then ride what I ride...

Specialized S Works Epic...

Warning it costs a tad over $200 (like 29 x's that ) but then that is jsut a few billable hours for a guy like you

 

[blubullit]

Mikebike, I love your bike. I think your specialized would be a perfect bike for someone who put on alot of miles up and down. I bet it is an absolute rocket on flat trails, although I still think there are better options out there for people who want to do some mild downhilling or all mountain riding. What you have is a CC race bike. Super fast and efficient but a little too punishing to the rider.
A bike like that wouldnt last one run at a ski resort or even semi-serious downhill trail. Im not trying to slag your bike, beleive me, its definately at the top of my mountain bike drool list, I just think there are more capable "all around" bikes out there for a fraction of the cost.
Damn that bike is sexy.

 

[mikebike]

yep definately not a downhill bike .... but it screams on cross country stuff. and the suspension is trick... it feels like a hardtail without the bumps...

I was just jerkin Nates chain... not seriously recommending it

ride safe:rockon:

 

[Se7enLC]

I ride a Rocky Mountain hardtail 27 speed with hydraulic discs, and I love it.

Most important thing on a bike is, does it fit you. What you'll want to do is sit on the seat and extend your foot down to the bottom pedal. You want your leg to be at almost full extension (just slightly bent). This allows you to get the maximum power transfer to the pedals (read: most distance/speed for effort exterted). If you get a bike that is too short, your legs will cramp up and your knees will hit the handlebars. If you get a bike that is too tall, you will have to stretch to reach them and you'll be more likely to lose control in the technical stuff.

Now, that being said, there's a lot of wiggle room depending on the type of riding you want to do. If you'll be mostly on the road or on light offroad, you can go with a big frame that fits you with the seat relatively low. It will be comfortable for you that way on the long haul riding. If you want to do more technical offroading, you'll want a much smaller frame and have the seat up a lot higher. It gives you more maneuverability, and you won't hit your junk on the top tube when you come off the seat. You see trails riders on TINY bikes for that very reason. My frame is a 15 or 16" and I'm 6'

Good luck! the bike looks like fun

 

[blubullit]

Some mtb porn.

 

[blubullit]

More Porn... The forth photo is of Josh Benders bike. 14" of travel front and rear. He drops of of cliffs so large he has to wear motocross boots or his ankles will snap!!!

 

[DefyInertia]

What's the starting price range for a full suspension bike like the ones blubullit posted? That is, what's the minimum that I need to shell out for a new one that ins't crap?

I also don't really know the starting prices for good hardtails and all mountain full suspension bikes. I know that all in I had about a grand in my old bike but that was in the mid-90s and it was only $350 (IIRC) to begin with. I had eventually replaced everything with top of the line bits as the originals broke or wore out.

How do I get up to speed on this stuff without sitting here asking a million questions? I guess I should just start by checking out some local bike shops and buying a few MTB mags.

I would definately go with a full suspension bike, I made the transition a couple of years ago and have never looked back.

On many bikes it is possible to lock the suspension for better performance uphill, so check the suspension for that!

Thanks for the input. I'll be riding in the city and taking roads to get to trails from time to time so this is important for my first/main bike.

If you aren't going to do major off roading like jumping off 5 foot cliffs and going down rocky/bumpy hills, I would go with a nice hardtail with full disk set up.

That's what I was thinking originally...especially for an all purpose bike. Who says I can't buy a second once I really get back into things...?

if you want something that rides like a hardtail (efficently) but that you can hit the rough stuff too...then ride what I ride...

:bow:

Thanks for responding Mike. I think THAT would be my first choice as a great all around bike....idealy with a road bike and downhill bike to boot. :sinister:

But do you think there is any benefit/wisdom to just getting a decent hard tail to get back in shape on and learn the area with while reintroducing myself back to a lot of biking?

I ride a Rocky Mountain hardtail 27 speed with hydraulic discs, and I love it.

Most important thing on a bike is, does it fit you. What you'll want to do is sit on the seat and extend your foot down to the bottom pedal. You want your leg to be at almost full extension (just slightly bent). This allows you to get the maximum power transfer to the pedals (read: most distance/speed for effort exterted). If you get a bike that is too short, your legs will cramp up and your knees will hit the handlebars. If you get a bike that is too tall, you will have to stretch to reach them and you'll be more likely to lose control in the technical stuff.

Now, that being said, there's a lot of wiggle room depending on the type of riding you want to do. If you'll be mostly on the road or on light offroad, you can go with a big frame that fits you with the seat relatively low. It will be comfortable for you that way on the long haul riding. If you want to do more technical offroading, you'll want a much smaller frame and have the seat up a lot higher. It gives you more maneuverability, and you won't hit your junk on the top tube when you come off the seat. You see trails riders on TINY bikes for that very reason. My frame is a 15 or 16" and I'm 6'

Good luck! the bike looks like fun

I think I want to err on the side of a smaller frame. I like to mess around and attempt to do what some might consider trials from time to time....I've always been a fan of downhill as well.

 

[FZ6er_FSR]

Hi DefyInertia,

The bikes that Blubullit posted, they start around $5000 and if some are the factory's team racing bike, skies the limit.

A really good Hardtail MTB starts around $1000, full suspension start around $2000 for Cross Country Bikes. I started MTBing in 1995, where the market only had 3 categories: Cross Country, Downhill and Dual Slalom. Around 2005, that's when they divided up them in six categories, and that's when I stopped following it. I now ride a 2003 Specialized Epic Disc, but my FZ6 gets more attention.

Anyway, to save you some time, if you want an all around MTB, look for a bike in the category called "All Mountain" or "Trail Bike". These bikes will have at least 4" to 5" on suspension travel. If you're like me and ride in city traffic/around town more than trails, Cross Country MTB with about 3" of travel (do they still make these with 3"?) would be more efficient. Bikes with Deore, Deore LX/XT/XTR parts is always a good choice. Keep in mind, I never locked my MTBs in public, fear of it getting stolen - my pitfull of having a nice MTB.

My first good MTB was a HT with a Chromoly Steel frame (frame still absorb shock). Then I got a better HT with an Aluminum frame, very light, but my back took all the shock as the frame was stiffer. We're not as young as we use to be, I would go with a full suspension to save on medical bills IMO. Or, get a hardtail and get a suspension seat post to save your back!


Here's a few sites you can check out:
http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkSection.jsp?ssid=08MTB

The Bike. A Simple Solution to Many Complex Problems. | Trek Bikes

Giant Bicycles*United States


Mountain bike product reviews forums classifieds trails

BikePedia

Good hunting, I hope you find your ride!

 

[bd43]

Defy, there are still some good deals on 2007 models as I ventured out with a buddy to help him pick out one and we saw prices as low as $1200 (CDN) for a descent FS MTB (these were the Kona and the Rocky Mountain, not sure of the models). At this price range there is a healthy amount of quality componentry which is adequate for the weekend warrior out bombing the local single tracks or urban paved trails. Definetely not for the hardcore downhiller (the ones taking chair lifts up to the top of the ski hill) but still perfect for the weekend getways to tackle on some foothill fire roads and hiking trails to your favorite headwall. I would suggest the following:

Specialized FSR XC Comp

Rocky Mountain Element 10

or the

Kona DAWG

Good luck finding your ride! :thumbup: