Magnetic Oil Drain Plug

petergreko

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Hi all. I have a question about magnetic drain plugs.

I've been tempted to use one just to see if any crud comes out with it. Not that I expect anything but more so out of curiosity. My only issue is that it's really long compared to OEM plug and I don't know if that extra 0.5 cm will touch anything or get in the way.

Here's the pic. The thread size and pitch match up it's merely the length of the magnet that I worry about.
View attachment 56037

Thanks all.
 
Hi all. I have a question about magnetic drain plugs.

I've been tempted to use one just to see if any crud comes out with it. Not that I expect anything but more so out of curiosity. My only issue is that it's really long compared to OEM plug and I don't know if that extra 0.5 cm will touch anything or get in the way.

Here's the pic. The thread size and pitch match up it's merely the length of the magnet that I worry about.
View attachment 56037

Thanks all.

Nothing in there - plug away!
Just throw the Tq wrench to the side as the FSM 31Ft/lbs only applies to NEW crush washers and installed with dry threads <<< its an oil pan. Will the threads ever be dry?

If you really want to know, grab a drill and some tin snips and open the oil filter. How to open your oil filter - w/pic's
 
There's probably a good amount of the magnet inserted into the plug. I'd use a grinding disk (dremel?)and cut off all that extra. You only need a small magnet to catch what you're looking for. :)
 
I have opened up an old filter and found nothing. I think it's more out of an abundance of caution and a healthy dose of curiosity.

Maybe I'll just trim it with Dremel as you say.

Thanks!
 
IME striking & grinding magnets reduces their strength.

I've had the pan off the bike, aint nothin in there to run into. If you look, the depth of the hole will exceed the length of that plug.

PS - no changes in that area from S1 to S2 design. Also the part you wish to see is right under the gasket. No internal engine parts exist in that area. Disregard red circle....
attachment.php
 
Whats the red circle for Randy??

BTW, with oil almost always on the threads, I torque down the drain plug and filter both to 12 ft lbs. No leaks, no issues... On my Yamaha OB engine (F150HP, 4 stroke), same drain plug, thread, aluminum block, spec's are for 20 ft lbs.. Hummm Yamaha!

The oil filter isn't a regular cartridge thou and has a magnet already built inside;

Technical Information | K and P Engineering




Yes its expensive, but its already paid for itself.. No cutting open filters, simply turn the inerds and release...
 
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Disregard red circle....

That would be the area I filled in so the S2 pan acceptz S1 headers! :thumbup:

A Few minutes with the Miller gang in the background and all is well! :D
55916d1421296436-08-fz6-condensed-build-thread-final-impact-img_20150114_182431_348-jpg
 
What if you just stuck a earth magnet to the side of the oil filter itself? I have a bunch of old hard drive magnets that I use a refrigerator magnets.
 
I have three round neodymium magnets stuck to the head of the drain plug. No idea if it works, but the plug gets magnetic and there is nothing on it left when changing oil.
 
What if you just stuck a earth magnet to the side of the oil filter itself? I have a bunch of old hard drive magnets that I use a refrigerator magnets.

IMO - once its in the oil filter its captive. Well until you shove a screw driver through the filter! :eek:

Most filters are going to stop down to 50 microns or so. The bad news here is its already been through the pumps strainer and pump to get to the filter.

Also - any cool chunks (cruel chunks??), typically have enough mass (we are talking iron here for a magnet to work), so they remain on pans bottom out of harms way.

The mag drain plug is a better option!
 
Too bad they don't have a chip detector and sensors to indicate making metal like they do in planes and helicopters.
 
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