Leo Vince + TB Sync + Idle Adjustment = EXCELLENT!

philosopheriam

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Folks,

To all of those who have a set of Leo's and are curious about the "lope" at idle after they are installed:

I installed my Leo's last year but did not sync the TB's or adjust the idle afterwards. At idle, there was a prononced "lope." I wasn't concerned about this, so I let it be.

Well, spring is here and I decided to perform some routine maintenance. First order of business was a TB sync.

So, I warmed up the engine, adjusted the idle up a bit, and sync'd the TB's.

After the sync, the idle did not need to be readjusted and THE LOPE IS GONE.

I doubt that the sync removed the lope, it was more likely the idle adjustment. However, to those who are wondering, the idle screw needs to be turned up a notch once Leo's are installed - at 1250 to 1350 RPM, the lope will disappear, and this is the factory spec for the idle speed on the FZ6.

Just some food for thought...
 
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mrphotoman

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that is good to know, my tb exhaust did the same thing it idles a little low. where is the idle screw located, is it easy to get to? I never bothered looking for it (yet)
 

philosopheriam

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The idle screw is located on the left side (when you are sitting on the bike) of the bike underneath the gas tank between the tank and the frame - it is easily accessible with a phillips head screwdriver.
 

mrphotoman

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Do you need to lift the tank to get to it? I will adjust mine tonight after work, thanks.
 

Pimpson

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I just installed my new Leo's and with the db killers out, it has a lumpy idle. The idle was spot on perfect at 1280 before. I haven't tried disconnecting the battery yet, but the 04-06 models don't have a O2 sensor, so I doubt that will do anything. So a sync might do the trick?
 

philosopheriam

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I just installed my new Leo's and with the db killers out, it has a lumpy idle. The idle was spot on perfect at 1280 before. I haven't tried disconnecting the battery yet, but the 04-06 models don't have a O2 sensor, so I doubt that will do anything. So a sync might do the trick?

Do like I mentioned in my first post - adjust the idle up, sync the TB's and then adjust the idle back down (if necessary).

When you install the Leo's, the idle actually drops below factory spec - at 1250 to 1350, the lump idle will disappear. However, I highly suggest doing a TB sync while you are at it. My bike revs and idles much much smoother...
 

mxgolf

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Have you removed the O2 sensor and put on block off plates? I did that and it helped out a bit. It's still a bit rough so I might try the idle setting. Thanks,
 

philosopheriam

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Um, unless you have the O2 sensor mistaken for something else, I think you are referring to the AIS system.

Removing the oxygen sensor is a bad idea.

My bike has the AIS (air injection system) removed and block off plates are installed.

The O2 sensor is screwed into a bung in the exhaust - it provides important a/f ratio feedback to the ECU.
 

jagermeister

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Um, unless you have the O2 sensor mistaken for something else, I think you are referring to the AIS system.

Removing the oxygen sensor is a bad idea.

My bike has the AIS (air injection system) removed and block off plates are installed.

The O2 sensor is screwed into a bung in the exhaust - it provides important a/f ratio feedback to the ECU.


Why is removing the O2 sensor bad?

I left my sensors in, but unplugged them under the tank, on both my FJR and FZ6. Doing that simply triggers a default fuel map, which is slightly richer than stock, under most conditions. This caused a 2mpg average drop on both bikes, and I noticed slightly smoother throttle response - similar to the effect of moderately higher CO levels.

IMO, this is a very worthwhile & easy change to make. Of course, nothing beats a Power Commander & Dyno runs.
 

McLovin

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when i put the 2bros on few years back i had the do the same thing, just a little higher idle makes the bike sound normal again...maybe the diff airflow of the pipe changes the optimum idle range or something..
 

philosopheriam

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Why is removing the O2 sensor bad?

I left my sensors in, but unplugged them under the tank, on both my FJR and FZ6. Doing that simply triggers a default fuel map, which is slightly richer than stock, under most conditions. This caused a 2mpg average drop on both bikes, and I noticed slightly smoother throttle response - similar to the effect of moderately higher CO levels.

IMO, this is a very worthwhile & easy change to make. Of course, nothing beats a Power Commander & Dyno runs.

IMHO, your mod gets categorized in the "jig rig" department - there is a correct way to do things and then there is a hackjob way to do things. Like most vehicles, our motorcycles will run on a "default" fuel map when inputs from the 02 sensor circut are not present.

By doing this, you are negating one of the strongest benefits of a properly functioning fuel injection system - the ability to trim fuel delivery based on atmospheric conditions.

Put you bike on a dyno and then tune the ECU accordingly for more power... Disconnecting o2 sensors is just plain stupid...
 

mxgolf

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I'm not sure why you say it's stupid because most all who have done it are pleased with the results. Mine is an 07 and with the Leo Vince I removed the catalitic converter and the o2 sensor and put in the block off plate. Works great. I did have to turn up the idle a bit. I still am probably going to do the PCIII and have my baby dyno tuned at the same time. :rockon:
 

philosopheriam

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Once again, what's the point in having a feedback-based FI system if you remove one of the devices which is essential for it to receive feedback...?
 

jagermeister

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Once again, what's the point in having a feedback-based FI system if you remove one of the devices which is essential for it to receive feedback...?

The O2 sensor must be unplugged, in order for a DynoJet (or any fuel mapping device) to be effective. These devices are designed to replace the stock fuel maps, which are O2 sensor dependent.

If the O2 sensor remains operable, it overrides the DynoJet. Reportedly, surging ensues, as the PC3 fights against the FI system. I simply unplugged the O2 sensor on both my Yamahas, with positive results.
 

Jacobien

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Jip, adjusting the idle and TB sync is a good idea after fitting the Leos.

I also recommend doing the CO adjust.

For the throttle body sync you will need to lift up the tank then you might need a TB sync tool to plug into the 4 sync pipes. After taking the readings you will adjust the TB's by adjusting the screws on the TB.

As explained here:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/32655-throttle-body-sync.html
 

Pimpson

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(I made a new thread instead of hijacking this one. Mods delete this please) I forgot all about this thread. I installed the Leos, adjusted the idle and then did a TB Sync. I did have some questions about the sync though. When I got the sync nice and level I removed the silencer from the pipes and my sync was all wacky again. Should the sync differ between the silencer in or out? My lumpy idle is still there with the silencer removed. It only idles smoothly if I have it cranked up to about 1500rpms. Is this too high for the bike? Has anyone been able to get a smooth idle with no silencer on a Leo system equiped 04~06 bike? (Pre O2 sensor)
 
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mrphotoman

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The O2 sensor must be unplugged, in order for a DynoJet (or any fuel mapping device) to be effective. These devices are designed to replace the stock fuel maps, which are O2 sensor dependent.

If the O2 sensor remains operable, it overrides the DynoJet. Reportedly, surging ensues, as the PC3 fights against the FI system. I simply unplugged the O2 sensor on both my Yamahas, with positive results.

That is completely false.
 
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