Szut
Just got here...
Like the title says, I want one.
Thanks
Thanks
Killernoodle clutch slave mod
- Thread starter Szut
- Start date
texcollect
Crotchety Old Fart
tdbill
Junior Member
So... take a week off work, read through 99 pages of thread, then hope the details for acquiring the lever are in there?
pookamatic
Junior Member
It's been a while since I've done just that, but I think you should be good scanning through the last 5 pages. You're looking for the list of folks who are currently waiting to order. Get your name on that list. When KN gets enough orders, the magic starts.So... take a week off work, read through 99 pages of thread, then hope the details for acquiring the lever are in there?
Sinman
Junior Member
Here's a copy/paste from page 15:
If the clutch pull is 25-30% less stiff, the engagement zone is also 25-30% longer. I've been to the drag strip several times with the mod and the clutch is much easier to modulate to get exactly the amount of torque I want at any given time.
I guarantee you will stall less at lights, take off smoother, shift smoother, etc with this mod. I honestly don't understand why Yamaha didn't make their clutch like this at the factory. I've felt literbike clutches that didn't feel half as horrible as the stock FZ6 clutch.
As far as adjustment goes, when you take the lever off you can put the new lever a spline higher on the shaft to get your adjustment back to factory.
Basically, installing the new lever goes like this:
Install the cable hanger bracket with the cable in the 2nd(new) position.
Screw the handlebar clutch adjustment (clockwise) and the mid-cable adjustment all the way in.
Pull the cable at the motor as far out as it will go to pull the lever at the handlebar all the way out (we need to remove all slack in the cable, just pull it taut)
Install the new clutch slave lever onto the cable(but not onto the splined shaft.
Put the clutch slave return spring in place.
Rotate the clutch input splined shaft clockwise until it stops to take the slack out of it.
Position the new clutch slave lever over the input splined shaft and rotate it as hard counter-clockwise as you can before you slide it on the input splined shaft (this is to take all of the slack out of the cable).
When the lever is on the input splined shaft, put the clutch slave return spring on the clutch slave lever.
Tap the clutch slave lever all the way down and reinstall the factory washer and circlip on the splined input shaft.
Adjust the master lever at the handlebar until the desired engagement zone is reached.
This is KN's post, and David323 directed me to it. As mentioned above, there about 100 pages, it is not easy to wade through and find the instructions.
I'll be removing my "core" and sending it to KN for the mod. :thumbup:
If the clutch pull is 25-30% less stiff, the engagement zone is also 25-30% longer. I've been to the drag strip several times with the mod and the clutch is much easier to modulate to get exactly the amount of torque I want at any given time.
I guarantee you will stall less at lights, take off smoother, shift smoother, etc with this mod. I honestly don't understand why Yamaha didn't make their clutch like this at the factory. I've felt literbike clutches that didn't feel half as horrible as the stock FZ6 clutch.
As far as adjustment goes, when you take the lever off you can put the new lever a spline higher on the shaft to get your adjustment back to factory.
Basically, installing the new lever goes like this:
Install the cable hanger bracket with the cable in the 2nd(new) position.
Screw the handlebar clutch adjustment (clockwise) and the mid-cable adjustment all the way in.
Pull the cable at the motor as far out as it will go to pull the lever at the handlebar all the way out (we need to remove all slack in the cable, just pull it taut)
Install the new clutch slave lever onto the cable(but not onto the splined shaft.
Put the clutch slave return spring in place.
Rotate the clutch input splined shaft clockwise until it stops to take the slack out of it.
Position the new clutch slave lever over the input splined shaft and rotate it as hard counter-clockwise as you can before you slide it on the input splined shaft (this is to take all of the slack out of the cable).
When the lever is on the input splined shaft, put the clutch slave return spring on the clutch slave lever.
Tap the clutch slave lever all the way down and reinstall the factory washer and circlip on the splined input shaft.
Adjust the master lever at the handlebar until the desired engagement zone is reached.
This is KN's post, and David323 directed me to it. As mentioned above, there about 100 pages, it is not easy to wade through and find the instructions.
I'll be removing my "core" and sending it to KN for the mod. :thumbup:
