I messed up cam timing

ozgurakman

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Hi all. I have a problem, I accidentally disaasemblied cams without aligned all H marks. so, If I align crankshaft and install cams to #1 cylinder at tdc, will my problem solves?

secondly, I want to change cam chain and how can I stop the crank for removing the screw which locates on camshaft? (can be seen in photo, photo from n0other's topic)

crankcase.jpg
 

FinalImpact

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Just grab an FSM its pretty straight forward. Obviously you have to pull the valve cover off to see the cam marks. you mention No0ther, he did a very clean right up for checking the valve clearance so that will get you in the top of the engine.
As for loosening/tightening the bolt, put the bike in gear and hold the brake. There will be some wind up but it should do the trick.

The intake cam gear and the exhaust cam gear have alignment marks on them. They go 180° apart.
I <---- hash mark pointed to the rear of the bike.
E hash mark pointed to the FRONT of the bike -----> E

I<--- 180° ---->> E
Just make sure the piston is at TDC and the alignment marks are parallel to the top of the head where the gasket surface seals.

Read the FSM. Its in there.
 

fazil

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I have a question about turning direction of timing rotor, as i remember from previous threads, it should rotate only clockwise, counter direction will damage engine, if that's right, how will that timing rotor nut can be loosened ?
 

fazil

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There is a video about R6 cam change, it can be useful still engines are similar.

Three parts total:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOqN07s_JmI"]Yamaha R6 pt.1 CAMSHAFT CRANKSHAFT TIMING - YouTube[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpEwJtZgKSc"]Yamaha R6 pt.2 CAMSHAFT CRANKSHAFT TIMING - YouTube[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwPYeKlIhqs"]Yamaha R6 pt.3 CAMSHAFT CRANKSHAFT TIMING - YouTube[/ame]
 
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trepetti

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I have a question about turning direction of timing rotor, as i remember from previous threads, it should rotate only clockwise, counter direction will damage engine, if that's right, how will that timing rotor nut can be loosened ?

Turning the nut counterclockwise with the bike in gear and the brakes applied WILL NOT rotate the engine counterclockwise. The crank will not move as you loosen the nut.
 

FinalImpact

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A couple things:
If installing a new CHAIN, soak it in oil first (30min) .
Lube the lifter buckets before dropping them into head and before CAMs go in.
Lube the CAMs and CAM journal before dropping CAMs into head (just me)...

Don't follow the pattern used in Vid #3 to torque CAM caps.
From the center (L to R) inner most cap, snug down apply some tension.
Move diagonal (cris cross) to next most inner cap, snug it move over one, snug it, return to cris cross, then move out repeat until all bolts are snug. Repeat several times taking the whole assembly up to torque spec in stages.

Other than that, that's about it.
 

FinalImpact

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did you tried this before? will clutch or something else hurts/damages?

The torque is very low, only 25 ft lbs (35Nm). It will not harm any of the components. Put it in 1st gear, apply rear brake. It will take up slack. Just make sure the Timing Chain Tensioner (TCT) is in place.
 

fazil

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The torque is very low, only 25 ft lbs (35Nm). It will not harm any of the components. Put it in 1st gear, apply rear brake. It will take up slack. Just make sure the Timing Chain Tensioner (TCT) is in place.

But he has already taken out the cams before loosening the timing rotor i guess.
 

FinalImpact

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Already got the parts needed, waiting for something to happen.
i don't want to open up a good running engine. :eek:

A favor please. One good picture of the circular ring on the R6 cam. I want to know what that sensor is triggering on. It hardly looks like there is anything there. Certainly not a large notch - well based on the photos ive seen. I can take this up in that thread from a few years ago about cam timing... ps you may as well mod the trigger wheel while there...
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Don't follow the pattern used in Vid #3 to torque CAM caps.
From the center (L to R) inner most cap, snug down apply some tension.
Move diagonal (cris cross) to next most inner cap, snug it move over one, snug it, return to cris cross, then move out repeat until all bolts are snug. Repeat several times taking the whole assembly up to torque spec in stages.



Besides skipping around some with his wrench, he goes way beyond his torque setting (clicks) several times.

He obviously very knowledgable doing the procedure, a little bit too comfortable perhaps...
 
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FinalImpact

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ozgurakman

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Fazil, I'll start a thread (in other words, topic) and explain whole proccess if my boy fires' up smoothly :)
And anyone, thank you so much for every little thing. Last 2 question is on the way:

1-While I assembling the cams and everything, how could I know if my bike is cyl #1 at tdc or cyl #4 at tdc (if you rotate 360 degree when crank is positioned at #1 at tdc, crank will position on #4 at tdc and H mark comes same position as #1 at tdc)

2- Am I supposed to apply some locktite on screw which I removed this night(on crankshaft)?
I'm asking because I haven't got torque wrench for 35NM torque. I'll secure the screw with hand and tight 1/4 tour more with ratchet wrench.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Fazil, I'll start a thread (in other words, topic) and explain whole proccess if my boy fires' up smoothly :)
And anyone, thank you so much for every little thing. Last 2 question is on the way:

1-While I assembling the cams and everything, how could I know if my bike is cyl #1 at tdc or cyl #4 at tdc (if you rotate 360 degree when crank is positioned at #1 at tdc, crank will position on #4 at tdc and H mark comes same position as #1 at tdc)

2- Am I supposed to apply some locktite on screw which I removed this night(on crankshaft)?
I'm asking because I haven't got torque wrench for 35NM torque. I'll secure the screw with hand and tight 1/4 tour more with ratchet wrench.

For TDC on #1 cylinder, the cam lobes will be facing away from each other

Yamaha doesn't call for any locktite on that bolt (but can't hurt). It only takes 25 ft lbs and its steel on steel so getting it good and snug (if you don't have a torque wrench) should be fine. You know how tight it was coming off...
 
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