I may have disconnected one of the fuel couplers...

[H2vet]

How dumb I feel... It was as simple as pulling the tank too far back and I completely stripped out these green and black wires from the white connector under the tank.

Is there any easy way to get these back in or have i just made a costly mistake?

 

[FinalImpact]

How dumb I feel... It was as simple as pulling the tank too far back and I completely stripped out these green and black wires from the white connector under the tank.

Is there any easy way to get these back in or have i just made a costly mistake?

http://m.imgur.com/MSjbjUn

Post # 2 may be of some value. http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...mpact-trouble-shooting-maintenance-guide.html I added some of the content below for reference.

Excerpt: ((PASTE))
****************************************************
FUEL TANK, FUEL PUMP, AND FUEL GAUGE
****************************************************
Basic maintenance to the FZ6 involves lifting the fuel tank to access the battery, air filter, and other items. The problem is there are two sets of wires which must be disconnected or the wires and connectors can be damaged if the tank is lifted too far. The connectors take a good firm push on the lock to disengage them and with a full load of fuel its harder to manage. Thus its possible to damage the connections to the fuel pump and the fuel level sensor.

PROBLEM:
Fuel pump won't run or Fuel meter flashes.

CAUTION:
When working with the fuel system use extreme caution and common sense!. Fuel and Fuel Vapor is highly flammable. Sparks, open flames, and even dropping tools can ignite spilled fuel. Always work in a safe place and take precautions to prevent and/or minimize spills.

If your pump doesn't come on or the fuel meter is flashing as a result of recent maintenance under the fuel tank, a good place to start is with inspection of the white and green connectors. Unplug them and thoroughly inspect the wires at the connector and confirm the wires is not pulled apart or the spade pulled from the housing. Also, if the wires sheath looks stretched (white in nature), the wires core may be pulled out of the spades conductor.

Pushed pin = no connection Although its not the same connector as those under the fuel tank, make certain yours is fully seated (i.e. like red wire). In the case of our bikes, lifting the tank too far can pull the connector out of the housing. So even though the connector clips to the housing the electrical connection doesn't provide a path to conduct energy with the pin pushed out. Verify the locking pin is still good on the spade and reseat the spade into the connector.

Proper Crimp, not pulled apart: No overheating, no discoloration and no damage to wire.

Un-crimped female spade: The color is worth noting as overheating from bad connections makes them dark.

FZ6 Fuel Pump and Fuel Sender Connections:
The WHITE connector w/ Green/white trace is for the fuel level sensor and the GREEN connector w/ Red/Light Blue trace for the fuel pump (larger gauge). Black wires are chassis ground on both connections.

>> END PASTE:
I'm unclear if the wire pulled from the connector spade or if the connector pulled from the white plug. You may be able to bend the tab back on the spade so it locks in again, but if it pulled the wires from the spade a wire repair is in order using the same gauge wire as the OEM did.

In that case, grab a crimp kit, cut off the bad section and measure the wire gauge. Take it with to buy some replacement wire and some spades and maybe extend any damage section of the wire(s).

Take a look and figure out what you need. Judging by that link, you are not the first. Good luck

 

[regder]

You need to replace the two pins that are crimped onto the two wires, which then go into the connector. I may have the exact pins in the tool box, will check later.

You're not the first, and won't be the last to make this exact same mistake.

Edit: If you look on the other end of the connector you'll see a blue piece (http://www.600riders.com/forum/atta...t-fuel-pump-electrical-connector-img_0092-jpg), that's the lock that keeps the pins in place. With the blue lock out, the pins should fall out. You can see if they're salvageable.

Edit2: The connector you want is this, but with the opposite key which I can't find on their site, Motodata - C2S-118J. Either way, you just need the pins.

 

[FinalImpact]

You folks having to do repairs on these - if you've never done this type of work before you might look at the international standards and use this as reference for a proper repair: http://www.ipc.org/toc/ipc-a-620.pdf millions of people are trained to this standard and if followed, it will be as good at Yamaha made it. :thumbup:

Search for and use this: "ipc620 crimp"

Or things like: ipc 620 xxxx
xxxx = crimp, splice, solder, heat shrink, spade, insulation, workmanship will land you some reading and quality information that can be used in life - i.e. bike, home, auto, electronics

Also - that would be awesome if someone could find an actual PN for the sockets and spades used here. Thanks [MENTION=2459]regder[/MENTION]

JJD952 - electrical

 

[H2vet]

FinalImpact, i appreciate all the help.

Since i didn't want to damage the connector at all i was reluctant to take it apart. After reading your post i changed that mindset.

Here is a pic of the white connector disassembled and a close up of the crimped, but disconnected, wire.

Do the crimped pins that the wires are connected to have a specific name? Can i buy them alone or should i just seek out a whole connector?

Thanks for your help so far guys, its much appreciated.

 

[FinalImpact]

FinalImpact, i appreciate all the help.

Since i didn't want to damage the connector at all i was reluctant to take it apart. After reading your post i changed that mindset.

Here is a pic of the white connector disassembled and a close up of the crimped, but disconnected, wire.

Do the crimped pins that the wires are connected to have a specific name? Can i buy them alone or should i just seek out a whole connector?

Thanks for your help so far guys, its much appreciated.

Done right or just done are two different things;
The part has different names depending on who made it. The most common would be: "TERM BLADE FEMALE, 14-16AWG" (#-#AWG gauge size of wire). Others refer to these as "stamped and formed blade terminals".

Take a look at this: 0433751001 Molex Inc | WM9175CT-ND | DigiKey

Once you have some details on the size, you look at the data sheet for the part and make sure its the right one. http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/433751001_sd.pdf << PS - you'll need the proper crimp tool to go with this. You can find it on their webiste.

Before you order you need to know: Width, Depth, thickness of male conductor. Can you measure it in the fuel tank? I suspect that is 18 - 22 gauge but that's just a guess.

If you notice the connector you took apart, its a water tight seal on there.

As an option you could extend the wires while there. They make self sealing shrink tubing. It has glue in it making it weather resistant.

Awesome find for making repairs or electrical mods;
Self Sealing Heat Shrink Tubing - aka w/ Adhesive GLUE INSIDE!!!

Manufacturer: NTE
Product: Dual Wall Polyolefin w/Glue Adhesive
Shrink Ratio: 3:1
Temp Rating: 125C

Sample PN: 47-23348-BK = 3/8"
Sample PN: 47-23148-BK = 3/16"

HOWEVER; If you need a real flexible repair, the Dual Wall is Stiff and MAY create strain on the wires where it exits! This could be an advantage in some applications. It is a very robust product. Google the PNs for a supplier near you (Mouser, Newwark, Allied, even Amazon carry this PN!).

 

[regder]

Do the crimped pins that the wires are connected to have a specific name? Can i buy them alone or should i just seek out a whole connector?

I'm sure they have a name, but I don't know what it is. The link I posted above will sell just the pins. I have a couple if you want them, but I won't be able to get to mail them out for a week or two.

This is what a new one looks like

 

[H2vet]

I'm sure they have a name, but I don't know what it is. The link I posted above will sell just the pins. I have a couple if you want them, but I won't be able to get to mail them out for a week or two.

Redger, can I PM you details? Id be fine with buying from the site, but ordering from new zealand would probably take even longer.

 

[regder]

Redger, can I PM you details? Id be fine with buying from the site, but ordering from new zealand would probably take even longer.

Sure, send me your address. When I get a minute I'll drop them in the mail.

 

[FinalImpact]

I'm sure they have a name, but I don't know what it is. The link I posted above will sell just the pins. I have a couple if you want them, but I won't be able to get to mail them out for a week or two.

This is what a new one looks like

Don't forget the crimp too that goes with it. AND BUY EXTRAS!! Some times crimps go bad, use of wrong setting ect.

And yes, would love to have details on the actual part so we can place it in the link up above. Tks

 

[regder]

So I've been procrastinating doing something else tonight and may have tracked down the pins. Should be either one of these I think

Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » HX Sealed Female Terminal for 2 way Sumitomo Honda Injector Connector ( 22 - 20 AWG )

Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » Sumitomo DL / SL Sealed Series Female terminal 18 - 16 AWG Terminal, loose piece

Edit: did some more digging, amazing what you can find once you know what you're looking for. It's a Sumitomo connector if you want to search more

Here is the whole connector, 2-Way Receptacle Kit

and the pins, 2-Way Receptacle Kit

 

[FinalImpact]

So I've been procrastinating doing something else tonight and may have tracked down the pins. Should be either one of these I think

Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » HX Sealed Female Terminal for 2 way Sumitomo Honda Injector Connector ( 22 - 20 AWG )

Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » Sumitomo DL / SL Sealed Series Female terminal 18 - 16 AWG Terminal, loose piece

Edit: did some more digging, amazing what you can find once you know what you're looking for

Here is the whole connector, 2-Way Receptacle Kit

and the pins, 2-Way Receptacle Kit

You Rock man! You find a good crimp tool for it along the way?

Rep Point headed your way!!

Also, you mind if I add this to the Fuel Pump thread (pictures and all)? http://www.600riders.com/forum/showpost.php?p=579362

 

[regder]

You Rock man! You find a good crimp tool for it along the way?

Rep Point headed your way!!

Also, you mind if I add this to the Fuel Pump thread (pictures and all)? http://www.600riders.com/forum/showpost.php?p=579362

Thanks for the rep :rockon:

Please add away. Some more info, it's a Sumitomo HX .090 connector, once you plug that into Google, you get a bunch of links

Forgot to mention, I've used this basic crimper for years. Not pro quality, but does the job for my basic needs

http://images.palcdn.com/hlr-system...4.jpg?_v=a016f6b0-7b7f-4744-bc23-a25b3f74c36f

 

[FinalImpact]

Thanks for the rep :rockon:

Please add away. Some more info, it's a Sumitomo HX .090 connector, once you plug that into Google, you get a bunch of links

Forgot to mention, I've used this basic crimper for years. Not pro quality, but does the job for my basic needs

http://images.palcdn.com/hlr-system...4.jpg?_v=a016f6b0-7b7f-4744-bc23-a25b3f74c36f

That website is a nice find. Lots of goodies on there for making quality repairs! The proper tool for the job will make one effortless crimp. Rolling the wings in and securing the sheath in one step.
CRIMPER TOOL:
Auto/Motorcycle terminal crimper << PS this can be found much cheaper. Its just nice with the all in one shopping site...

I place reliability very high as an electrical failure at the wrong time could be costly.

Q? is the blade on the fuel pump the same width for both the sender and the pump itself? If so, we just need to grab the proper wire gauge in the same format. It would be nice to know the wire gauge of each. I know the pump is slightly larger gauge. Just don't know what.