How to Remove an Oil Filter - Screwdriver

Thanks, i meant on the bike though... There are not a whole lot of chrome parts on the bike and i was curious if it stuck out like a sore thumb, or added a tasteful touch of "Bling"
 
I love the pics you used, very original. I have used this method a bunch, that is until i found the convinience of the K&N oil filters.



Great thread!:thumbup:
 
Is there something I'm missing....I remove the oil filter with an oil filter wrench I bought at advanced auto parts.

And me too..it saves knackering my screw drivers.

This method always used to be frowned upon. I don`t know if that is still the case.

Steve
 
Watch your year of manufacture. The UK site quotes KN-204/C for 2007 models.

The 204 and 204C would be for 2007 and up where the number I gave was for the 2004 through 2006 which is where I fall in.... What I don't know is if they will interchange. An example would be the Harley filter I use which is for the early model Sporty. The books don't list it as being correct but using the older model filter actually increases the pressure by roughly 5psi. I'll check into it....
 
I just read on a site that the KN-204 does not have a pressure relief valve.
Anyone know why it would be recommended for the 07?

Many full-flow filters use an integrated pressure relief valve to allow for a bypass mode. If the filter element becomes completely clogged, the relief valve allows oil to bypass the filter thus protecting the engine from an oil starvation condition. Another thing to think about is the valve may also open in very cold conditions allowing for increased flow. I run a filter on the Harley that has no by-pass and it wouldn't bother me to have one on the FZ6 as it is not likely that in 1,500 miles the oil could become so contaminated the filter would need to use the by-pass. Now, if I never changed my oil or ran really high mileage intervals between changes I would be using a by-pass filter for sure.
 
Many full-flow filters use an integrated pressure relief valve to allow for a bypass mode. If the filter element becomes completely clogged, the relief valve allows oil to bypass the filter thus protecting the engine from an oil starvation condition. Another thing to think about is the valve may also open in very cold conditions allowing for increased flow. I run a filter on the Harley that has no by-pass and it wouldn't bother me to have one on the FZ6 as it is not likely that in 1,500 miles the oil could become so contaminated the filter would need to use the by-pass. Now, if I never changed my oil or ran really high mileage intervals between changes I would be using a by-pass filter for sure.

Good information.
 
Gotta give a HUGE thanks to the original poster on this one. Earlier tonight, I was doing my 2nd oil change on my FZ6. When I did the original one, I replaced the filter with a Purcolator and used a torque wrench and oil filter socket wrench to torque it to spec. That was BEFORE I had read on here that folks recommend hand tightening only. Little did I suspect that that would come to haunt me.

So I spent much too much time trying to use my oil filter socket wrench, a strap wrench, and a 3 prong claw wrench, to get my damn oil filter off, but it would NOT... COME... OFF!!! The primary problem with all three of the above, is that none of them could maintain a proper grip around the oil filter. Even the oil filter socket wrench kept slipping upwards/off.

Jumped onto the boards in desperation, found this thread and figured what the hell do I have to lose? 15 minutes with a flathead and a hammer and I finally got the bastard off! Talk about waaaay too much hassle, for a lousy oil change. Oh well, lesson learned... hand tighten that filter!
 
+1 for hand-tightening the filter... Did my first oil change just before leaving on a long trip... took a hangar-full of aircraft mechanics to get the old one off... :D

Put the new one on myself (standard Yamaha OEM filter) with just my smokin' biceps - lol, stayed perfectly tight for 5500 kms... and easily removed yesterday for the latest oil change...
 
+1 to GIANT channel locks.

They may deform the filter a bit while removing it, but you're tossing it anyway. Also, you get to buy a pair of GIANT channel locks.
 

Okay, i am having trouble with something that should be so simple. I bought a a similar Fram cap wrench and found that I couldn't take the filter off or put one on, since the wrench was plastic and it kept spinning. So, I took that back and bought a trusty OEM wrench like the one above. I am still having the same problem! When the cap is on tight enough to work, I can't insert the dang wrench into the hole since the cap is now flush with the top of the filter. I never have this problem on my car...any suggestions (besides buying a different kind of wrench...)
 
Good post but I have to agree with the others, use of a screwdriver is always the last resort. You might be able to use a strap wrench or better yet go to your bike shop and get an oil filter wrench adaptor that fits onto your 3/8 inch ratchet, it works great. Wonderful post keep up the good work.

Doc
 
When I changed the oil on my 06 for the first time after buying it...it was obvious that: it was way over tightened; had not been off for a bit. Tried 3/8 adaptor type= just spun, strap type= spun. Got out trusty screw-driver= came off. Put on K&N with the nut on the end= should come off easily next time around...........I hope.
 
When I changed the oil on my 06 for the first time after buying it...it was obvious that: it was way over tightened; had not been off for a bit. Tried 3/8 adaptor type= just spun, strap type= spun. Got out trusty screw-driver= came off. Put on K&N with the nut on the end= should come off easily next time around...........I hope.


Sounds like my first oil change on my 04 way overtightened tried the strap on didnt work grabbed a screwdriver hammered it in and turned worked like a charm. Although i was stupid and bought a standard oil filter for that oil change the next oil filter i buy will be a K&N
 
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