^ Thanks! I may take you up on that!
Hot seat from exhaust
- Thread starter mikw73
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Actually, if you can pick up some thin ALUMINUM plate, 1/16" or so it would absorb and radiate the heat a little faster than sheet metal. Aluminum that thin can be easily bent in a vise or by hand. Your shield will likely be a semi circular which you could easily bend around some approx 1.75" tube (just slightly larger diameter than the stock pipe..
You could also pop rivet an additonal small "air scoop" to it to pull air thru and past it, out the back of the bike...
The second attached photo is a lock bracket made of thin aluminum (for an FJR), made by hand. All bends are made in a vise, with a square, block of wood and BFH. Its very easy to work with.
The first is again made by hand and is 1/8" aluminum. Considerable stiffer, workable but overkill for what you need.. (Concours helmet lock bracket)
You could also pop rivet an additonal small "air scoop" to it to pull air thru and past it, out the back of the bike...
The second attached photo is a lock bracket made of thin aluminum (for an FJR), made by hand. All bends are made in a vise, with a square, block of wood and BFH. Its very easy to work with.
The first is again made by hand and is 1/8" aluminum. Considerable stiffer, workable but overkill for what you need.. (Concours helmet lock bracket)
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Marthy
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Then you stick a piece of the gold heat reflective material on this sheet of (i will suggest you stainless steel, it doesn't absorb heat as much as aluminum... and 0.020" is tick enough but either way it's fine) and you're all set. That gold stuff is the best thing money can buy...
Just an FYI: Do not cover more than half the CAT as it can lead to it over heating and damage it. By damage I mean the honey comb core melts and flow is reduced or stopped.
And although aluminum is easy to bend and work SS would do better at reflecting it vs absorbing it. As mentioned, increasing air flow to desired location would be best but I'm not sure where that is. . . Heat the the rear tire??? lol :ban:
And although aluminum is easy to bend and work SS would do better at reflecting it vs absorbing it. As mentioned, increasing air flow to desired location would be best but I'm not sure where that is. . . Heat the the rear tire??? lol :ban:
Susan
That Romance Author Lady
On a related note: I was riding all day yesterday (it was getting up toward ninety degrees here), and I didn't notice the seat getting hot so much as the frame.
The frame does get super hot, and that may well be some of what I'm feeling. I notice it most in the winter when it's a very good thing and then I can tell that most does seem to come through the seat. Perhaps the air temp being higher in the summer allow the frame to heat up a lot more? In the winter, I'll even slow down before a hill sometimes to get some more heat built up going up it. (I don't have heated gear.) It doesn't work just to rev it; you have to have the motor pushing a load to get a lot of heat out of it.
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Susan
That Romance Author Lady
That's good to know! I just realized, too, that heat from the frame depends on the length of your shins and the way you're sitting on the bike. I'm 5'4" and when I sit closer to the tank, I get a lot of heat from the frame on my inner knees and thighs. When I move back, not so much of my legs are against the frame, so it's a little cooler.
In the few times I haven't wore my leather pants, there is a crazy amount of heat off the 08 from the CATs. . . Its amazing what keeping the boots an extra inch or two out on the pegs does for NOT heating my boots!
When riding in denim and boots again RARE, the heat when waiting at lights is low and off the primary set of cats and the secondary cat. Not much can be done the IMO as a shield under the bike just won't do much without air flow to direct it somewhere else. Anyone care to put under-seat FAN to blow it out towards the rear?
When riding in denim and boots again RARE, the heat when waiting at lights is low and off the primary set of cats and the secondary cat. Not much can be done the IMO as a shield under the bike just won't do much without air flow to direct it somewhere else. Anyone care to put under-seat FAN to blow it out towards the rear?
Razor FZ6
New Member
Look up your post, after my new old 2004 started roasting me after on week and a mistake dicing the seat for comfort. It a custom seat with Gel . Unlike foam that gel radiats heat up to the leather. WoW! Now I Know. worked on my cruiser stock seat. "the dicing".
Anyway,trimmed some Mooseracing heat shield under the driver portion of the seat, stapled along the right inner stox box facing down, under stow box above the highest pipe before the muffler, and two section of header tape with hose clamps. Took for fifty mile run getting on it in 70/73 degree dry weather. Got the house no heat. Removered seat and the shield under the seat had the only warmth.
next week we get warmer weather I'll test alweek.
Anyway,trimmed some Mooseracing heat shield under the driver portion of the seat, stapled along the right inner stox box facing down, under stow box above the highest pipe before the muffler, and two section of header tape with hose clamps. Took for fifty mile run getting on it in 70/73 degree dry weather. Got the house no heat. Removered seat and the shield under the seat had the only warmth.
next week we get warmer weather I'll test alweek.
