Hi Everyone! Needing a little advice

Erci

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zixaq

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As mentioned, start with a thorough lube of the clutch cable and lever pivot. It will likely make a world of difference.

I'm also running an FZ-07 clutch slave lever, and I vastly prefer it to stock. Cheap, easy mod (you just need circlip pliers).
 

armystrong68p

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I'd like to thank the entire community for the support - I wasn't aware there are that many FZ6 riders out there lol.

I ordered the Two Brothers PX-1 exhaust tips today. I'm really hoping they work, because I park in a multi-story and I hate setting car alarms off at 5 in the morning or at 5 in the afternoon! That and I can't stand the bike sounding like it's going 90 miles an hour and I'm only going like 30 lol.

I'll look up lubing the cable - never actually lubed a clutch cable but I hear it's not difficult. If that doesn't do enough I'll look into the slave lever or the click levers themselves. I planned on replacing the brake and clutch levers anyways, but this is additional motivation for me to do so.

Once again, thanks everyone! I haven't ridden it lately as I'm a little apprehensive due to the clutch, but hopefully soon.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Lubing the clutch cable regularly makes a BIG difference in the pull. The engagement zone will be the same but easier to pull and smoother to release.

How many miles on the bike? I ask in that I found my clutch cable ( about 20,000 miles and ALWAYS LUBED) ready to break while doing regular maintenance. You could not see any broken strands (till I cut it apart), but could feel it (while lubing) was NOT smooth.

After lubing, simply try moving the cable back and forth by hand, it should be nice and smooth (un-like below)



 

armystrong68p

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Lubing the clutch cable regularly makes a BIG difference in the pull. The engagement zone will be the same but easier to pull and smoother to release.

How many miles on the bike? I ask in that I found my clutch cable ( about 20,000 miles and ALWAYS LUBED) ready to break while doing regular maintenance. You could not see any broken strands (till I cut it apart), but could feel it (while lubing) was NOT smooth.

After lubing, simply try moving the cable back and forth by hand, it should be nice and smooth (un-like below)




The bike has 13,000 miles on it. I don't know if the previous owner lubed the cable or not.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I was very surprised and mine WAS maintained.

Just when you lube the cable, simply disconnect it from both ends and makes sure it slides easily with no binding...

Also, loosing up the cable play some, bringing the lever in closer somewhat acts like the "adjuster" in an aftermarket lever. Not quite so far to pull (and release), of course make sure it's fully releasing(when pulled in).
 

armystrong68p

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So I did try just adjusting the clutch today using the turn dial - to no avail. To be honest I feel like I made it worse.

I think the problem is I'm so used to having a clutch that just "goes" in first. I don't need to apply throttle at all on a flat surface. But this thing. . .it's a whole different ball game. I'll stall every time if I don't apply throttle (kinda depressing lol).
 

Erci

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So I did try just adjusting the clutch today using the turn dial - to no avail. To be honest I feel like I made it worse.

I think the problem is I'm so used to having a clutch that just "goes" in first. I don't need to apply throttle at all on a flat surface. But this thing. . .it's a whole different ball game. I'll stall every time if I don't apply throttle (kinda depressing lol).

It'll get better. Just put some time in. Did you take MSF BRC? Remember the first riding exercise? Friction zone! Just do a bunch of that. You'll make friends with it in no time.
Not to start a cable lubrication debate, but just to give you a perspective: Having dealt with cables of this type for over 20 years, I've come to believe that lubing them ultimately makes things worse. They feel great and slick after initial lube application, but over time lube will attract enough dust and gunk up the insides of the housing to make them feel terrible. Lubing them again makes them feel good, but it doesn't last.
I went 35k miles on my FZ1 without lubing the clutch cable once and it never deteriorated. Cable looked like new, when I sold the bike. The only thing I ever did was make sure that the exposed parts of cable stayed dry (by the lever and by the basket).. just blew the water off after rainy rides.
 

bricksrheavy

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So I did try just adjusting the clutch today using the turn dial - to no avail. To be honest I feel like I made it worse.

I think the problem is I'm so used to having a clutch that just "goes" in first. I don't need to apply throttle at all on a flat surface. But this thing. . .it's a whole different ball game. I'll stall every time if I don't apply throttle (kinda depressing lol).
What's your engine idle speed? - I believe the factory setting is at ~1250-1350 RPM's on a warm engine, if it's set lower it would require more throttle input to take off without stalling.

Lube & check the clutch cable, check the idle speed - and if it's all well with some practice you will see no more of the dreaded comrade Stallin at a green light :D
 
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bricksrheavy

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...
Having dealt with cables of this type for over 20 years, I've come to believe that lubing them ultimately makes things worse. They feel great and slick after initial lube application, but over time lube will attract enough dust and gunk up the insides of the housing to make them feel terrible.
...
I'm starting to think the same way, checked my cable couple of days ago and all I could see is how well the exposed part of the cable at the top end was plastered with dust and grime that got stuck on it thanks to lube.

If I didn't find it such a pain to change I would probably buy a new one and try running it without lube for a while just to see how it would behave.
 

darius

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So I did try just adjusting the clutch today using the turn dial - to no avail. To be honest I feel like I made it worse.

I think the problem is I'm so used to having a clutch that just "goes" in first. I don't need to apply throttle at all on a flat surface. But this thing. . .it's a whole different ball game. I'll stall every time if I don't apply throttle (kinda depressing lol).

The Fizzer has virtually no torque below 4K RPM and the clutch friction zone really narrow. That's the downside of an R6 derived engine and sport bike clutch for quick shifts.

On the flip side, it's a very rewarding bike if you're determined enough to master it, especially the motor. Give it some gas while smoothly easing out the clutch. 1st gear is still very low and you'll be overtaken off the line by a Prius if you don't get used to rolling the throttle confidently to get that engine speed up.

As a rule of thumb, the clutch lever should engage from about half-way out. If the cable isn't lubed and moving freely, it will be awkward and grabby. If lube doesn't help, assume the previous owner neglected it and replace with a new OEM for ~$20. Avoid 3rd party cables.
 

Ital

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Congrats on the new bike it looks great. You should reach out to the original owner to see if he still has the stock exhaust if everything else fails.
Believe or not, if the oil in there is not great uqality, doing an oil change with a Motul synthetic will make shifting smoother, not as harsh, at least it did for me.
Especially when shifting into first and second.
I also bought regular length click clutch levers since my hands are huge... and I try to keep them as close as possible to the handle with the clicks and and I also keep the clutch a little lose,so it pushes engagement lower, that seems to help with shifting smoother for me...
Wish you lived around here and you could try me bike... hmm although a ride to Hawaii would be awesome!!!
Anyway welcome and good luck!
 
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