HELP!!! I think i messed up my throttle bodies!!

[QwickFliCk]

i was doin the throttle body sync n i guess i was being too generous on the turning of the tiny screws now the first hose is suckin up all the oil and is about to get sucked into the bike! i never turned the first screw(top left) what should i do??????!!!!

 

[Erci]

I would give the screw 1/4 turn back out. Pull the hoses off and let the oil reset and try again. Having said that.. wait for others with more experience on this particular job to chime in.

 

[QwickFliCk]

which screw??

 

[callmegandhi]

This is why I always have a certified technician work on all my vehicles! Because I don't know what the hell your talking about! :spank:

 

[QwickFliCk]

This is why I always have a certified technician work on all my vehicles! Because I don't know what the hell your talking about! :spank:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/39891-build-your-own-manometer-throttle-body-sync.html

 

[QwickFliCk]

k the oil has settled im goin to try it again i backed off the screws a lil. wish me luck

 

[Erci]

k the oil has settled im goin to try it again i backed off the screws a lil. wish me luck

Good luck, man. Couldn't tell you which screw.. I know it's hard to remember, but obviously the idea would be to try to undo what you did and start over

 

[darkbluexplorer]

G/L! I know i have done my fare share of stuff along those lines.. but you will learn a lot from this experience

 

[iSteve]

Did you make your own synchronizer or buy one. Most pro models have screws to calibrate the levels before syncing. These calibration screws are usually closed when not in use, if one is open and others closed this could cause your problem.

 

[QwickFliCk]

Did you make your own synchronizer or buy one. Most pro models have screws to calibrate the levels before syncing. These calibration screws are usually closed when not in use, if one is open and others closed this could cause your problem.

i built mine. thanks for the info tho!

G/L! I know i have done my fare share of stuff along those lines.. but you will learn a lot from this experience

Good luck, man. Couldn't tell you which screw.. I know it's hard to remember, but obviously the idea would be to try to undo what you did and start over

thanks fellas


Good news: throttle body 1 and 4 are vacuuming equally but still getting high but not high enough to get sucked into the bike!

bad news: throttle body 2 and 3 are not even vacuuming or it has to be 1 and 4 that r vacuuming too much. also a tiny bit of oil got sucked into throttle body 1. what will happen to it??

 

[Erci]

a tiny bit of oil got sucked into throttle body 1. what will happen to it??

My guess: nothing bad will happen. This is where fuel mixes with air and goes into combustion chamber. So you'll get a bit of oil mixed in with fuel and air.. should just see more smoke come out, but it should burn off.
I'm not an expert, but that's what I *think* will happen.. nothing worse

 

[Motogiro]

My guess: nothing bad will happen. This is where fuel mixes with air and goes into combustion chamber. So you'll get a bit of oil mixed in with fuel and air.. should just see more smoke come out, but it should burn off.
I'm not an expert, but that's what I *think* will happen.. nothing worse

Also if you suck enough oil through the intake into a cylinder there is a possibility of hydro lock but hopefully it didn't gulp enough.

Most of the manometers I'm aware of have tiny metering jets to help stabilize vacuum variations so that the tubes don't see full on vacuum. The vacuum the fluid reacts to does it much more slowly so you generally won't get in trouble as fast. This also makes the manometer less visible to you your throttle body vacuum.

The Motion Pro also has a very low volume of liquid so that if there was an accidental over vacuum you would suck very little liquid. I believe the liquid is also pretty inert to the top cylinders.

In the long run I like a pro set up to do this set up. Maybe you could jet those tubes and even get some metering to get them all equal so you can do a proper sync.

 

[QwickFliCk]

My guess: nothing bad will happen. This is where fuel mixes with air and goes into combustion chamber. So you'll get a bit of oil mixed in with fuel and air.. should just see more smoke come out, but it should burn off.
I'm not an expert, but that's what I *think* will happen.. nothing worse

i was thinking the same. i was gunna take off the airbox and shoot some carb cleaner in the throttle body just in case but i didnt wanna take the chance of ruining any type of electrical sensors

Also if you suck enough oil through the intake into a cylinder there is a possibility of hydro lock but hopefully it didn't gulp enough.

Most of the manometers I'm aware of have tiny metering jets to help stabilize vacuum variations so that the tubes don't see full on vacuum. The vacuum the fluid reacts to does it much more slowly so you generally won't get in trouble as fast. This also makes the manometer less visible to you your throttle body vacuum.

The Motion Pro also has a very low volume of liquid so that if there was an accidental over vacuum you would suck very little liquid. I believe the liquid is also pretty inert to the top cylinders.

In the long run I like a pro set up to do this set up. Maybe you could jet those tubes and even get some metering to get them all equal so you can do a proper sync.

the amount that got sucked in was tiny...i would say like about 3-4 tear drops of oil

the pro set up im goin to invest in next time is the morgan carbtune..$100 shipped and it uses no liquids!

 

[FinalImpact]

A simple test when all is said and done is to move the hoses about and confirm the values observed remain the same. i.e. swap 1 to 3, 2 to 4 and so on.

What kind of oil is it that got sucked? Through this circuit the volume of oil sucked up is going to be atomized and won't hurt the bike as for as Hydrostatic lock. But if the bike is equipped with a CAT, excessive oil can plug the CAT(s). Won't happen from this tho. I'm just sayin. . .

Oh and lastly if it constantly has too much vacuum so as to suck up oil, you may need to introduce an equal leak to each tube. The down side is you need a really good flow meter to verify the leaks are all the same. The other option is to use a balloon or something like it and fill it to an equal volume and TIME how long it takes to leak out of the vent hole. Or install shut off valves so you can rev the bike up without fear if sucking up the oil. . .

 

[QwickFliCk]

A simple test when all is said and done is to move the hoses about and confirm the values observed remain the same. i.e. swap 1 to 3, 2 to 4 and so on.

Oh and lastly if it constantly has too much vacuum so as to suck up oil, you may need to introduce an equal leak to each tube. The down side is you need a really good flow meter to verify the leaks are all the same. The other option is to use a balloon or something like it and fill it to an equal volume and TIME how long it takes to leak out of the vent hole. Or install shut off valves so you can rev the bike up without fear if sucking up the oil. . .

thanks ill do that test! i dont really know what u mean by using a balloon..can u elaborate on that..also i was thinking to have someone shut off the bike quickly if the oil gets too high so it wont get sucked in

 

[QwickFliCk]

I FIXED IT!:cheer::cheer::cheer:

i feel so relieved!

what i did i started from scratch. i turned throttle body screws 2,3,and 4 all the way to the right until they stopped.. i backed them out 1 full turn out and worked my way from there...at first, throttle body 1 will still be VERY HIGH but it rises a lot slower than b4...i turned the other screws in small increments until i got them good enough to start to the actual sync'in..now i got all of them almost perfect...im goin to run seamfoam through the bike for a couple days to get rid of watever oil got in and hopefully everything should work out.

should i spray something into the actual throttle body?
i looked under the butterfly valve and they look a lil reddish/brown crud is starting to build. maybe thats carbon build up... what did other people do about this??

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

i was thinking the same. i was gunna take off the airbox and shoot some carb cleaner in the throttle body just in case but i didnt wanna take the chance of ruining any type of electrical sensors



the amount that got sucked in was tiny...i would say like about 3-4 tear drops of oil

the pro set up im goin to invest in next time is the morgan carbtune..$100 shipped and it uses no liquids!

I invested in the Morgan Carbtune several years ago and its paid for itself several times over. No liquids to loose/balance, etc, about $80 shipped to my door from England. The company is very customer friendly and threw in a pouch for free (due to a computer mix up when ordering-no ones fault).

I've synced numerous bikes (and my 150HP, 2300CC Yamaha 150 outboard-major vacuuum). Extremly well made and very easy to use...

Before I had the Carbtune, I had a Yamaha dealership sync my FJR. It was within spec's however I was able to get it considerably closer (spec's, like the FZ was within 10mm). Mine are within 3mm across the board on the FZ. No guessing how far or close you are between cylinders MM wise..

As for that little bit of oil you sucked in, as stated above, you should be ok.

 

[FinalImpact]

I FIXED IT!:cheer::cheer::cheer:

i feel so relieved!

what i did i started from scratch. i turned throttle body screws 2,3,and 4 all the way to the right until they stopped.. i backed them out 1 full turn out and worked my way from there...at first, throttle body 1 will still be VERY HIGH but it rises a lot slower than b4...i turned the other screws in small increments until i got them good enough to start to the actual sync'in..now i got all of them almost perfect...im goin to run seamfoam through the bike for a couple days to get rid of watever oil got in and hopefully everything should work out.

should i spray something into the actual throttle body?
i looked under the butterfly valve and they look a lil reddish/brown crud is starting to build. maybe thats carbon build up... what did other people do about this??

Good JOB!!!
You might just uncap the 4 tubes and let some air be sucked up (a couple minutes). The point being once you cap them, the oil could deteriorate the tubing.

 

[hazy]

I am not sure how throttle bodies sync works on a FZ6.Of course i do throttle bodies sync with carbtune,however i can't the see relation whereby adjusting the 3 tiny screws can the affect the amount of airflow passing through the throttle bodies.To my limited knowledge is that the amount of airflow is decided based on the position of the disc within the throttle bodies.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I am not sure how throttle bodies sync works on a FZ6.Of course i do throttle bodies sync with carbtune,however i can't the see relation whereby adjusting the 3 tiny screws can the affect the amount of airflow passing through the throttle bodies.To my limited knowledge is that the amount of airflow is decided based on the position of the disc within the throttle bodies.

The FZ6 uses two actual throttle bodies (two bore holes on each-4 total). Their linked in the middle with an adjusting screw/spring.
The FJR uses 4 TB's, same arrangement. The air adjuster screws are located deeper on each TB on the FJR and a bit harder to get to.

Both Yamaha manuals specically state NOT TO ADJUST these screws(between the TB's) but use the air screws.

I don't know how the system works however someone posted a thread maybe a year ago of his FZ6 adjusting block gumming up. He took it apart and cleaned it, got it running again... Yamaha doesn't address the block, just replace it if necessary.

Do a search, it was interesting reading...


QuickFliCk, re the gunk inside the throttle bodies, you can clean them out with carb cleaner, it should help it running too. Spray a little at a time with the bike running (unless initially you can a rag behind there-engine off to soak up the goo). I'd put a large fan in front of the bike when running it on the centerstand to help keep things cool...