Headlight Issue

[seanalan329]

I have a headlight that is overheating the connector. The bulb is a dual filament and both low beam and high beam were working. The headlight went out so I checked and the black wire overheated and melted the connector. How can I fix this? I reconnected the wire and now LB does not work only HB.

Also, do you have any recommendations for new single headlights?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Is that the stock factory wiring?

If its a homemade dual headlight mod, and its wired for BOTH FILIMENTS to stay on all the time, that could very well cause the same issue.


The BD43 dual headlight mod (right side bulb)actually turns off the LB when the HB is activated and vice versa. Your 3 wire harness does NOT appear to a BD43 harness (perhaps another mod).

BTW, The black wire is the ground. When flipping the HB/LB switch, with the black ground wire connected to a test light, ONE of the other terminals, should turn on and off. BOTH SHOULD NOT BE HOT ALL THE TIME, that's very likely your issue.

As posted in your other thread, if the bulb installed is higher than 60 watt, it could overheat and melt the plug/wires.


Please post what you come up with, if its piggyback wired to the other side, etc...

 

[FinalImpact]

Adding to the above post; a good auto parts store usually stocks the connectors and flag terminals so you can replace the damaged one. You'll need a crimp tool to crimp on new flag terminals as the flags (female spade lug) are soft and once heated loose their elasticity and no longer grip. Thus they over heat and the cycle repeats burning the connector from high resistance at the contacts.
When properly fitted connection should be very snug and secure. As stated above, only one element should be powered or this may repeat as its not configured properly. Good luck.

 

[seanalan329]

It's actually a single headlight that was done before me, so I don't know how it was set up. I'll but a lower bulb and new connector to see if that fixs it.

 

[Motogiro]

It's actually a single headlight that was done before me, so I don't know how it was set up. I'll but a lower bulb and new connector to see if that fixs it.

I thought you said in the original post that it was a dual filament. If it was a dual filament and wired for both filaments to be on, without a proper headlight switching mod, as Scott already mentioned, you will overheat the lamp, associated mount and hardware.

The headlamp plug and wire in the photo are not the OEM plug and wire.

One headlamp on the FZ6 is the H7 single filament and the other is the H4 dual filament. The stock FZ6 H4 dual filament only used one filament for the high beam and does not use the low beam filament. This means the stock FZ6 always looks like one headlamp is out when the high beam is off. Some people wire these up incorrectly so that both sides (low beams)are lit but when you turn on the high beam the dual filament bulb must have the proper switching. If not it overheats.

So the H4 lamp has 2 filament in the bulb.
The H4 was designed to have a high beam and low beam filament in the same bulb.
The low beam filament is designed to be shut off when the high beam is active because the lamp can not dissipate the heat from both filaments burning at the same time.
The stock FZ6 was wired to only use the one filament even though it is a dual filament (H4).

I apologize if I repeat what has already been posted by others but it's not a question of a lower wattage lamp if the plug assembly has been rewired to run both filaments at the same time, without proper switching.

Please let us know how you do with it.

 

[fb40dash5]

My guess is either a) like Motogiro suggested, it's wired to get both filaments burning at once or b) someone put a higher-wattage bulb in there at some point. You can get H4 bulbs up to something like 130w (double a DOT-legal H4) but the wiring has to be there to support that power draw. Same with running both filaments, though that will only overload your (common to both filaments) ground... and burn bulbs like a mofo. I'd stick a test light on there and double check for a). If not, pull the bulb, it should be marked with wattage and DOT/ECE/whatever approvals, if applicable.

You can also get the connectors pre-wired with a pigtail, just cut and splice. Whatever you do, weatherproof it properly...electrical tape or "insulated" crimp-ons are NOT properly weatherproofed. I use uninsulated crimps and glue-lined double-wall heatshrink.

 

[seanalan329]

It was a low watt bulb, just running both beams. I just replaced the connector for a temporary fix. What do you think of this headlight though?

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Acerbis-Cyclops-Headlight-2042690001-14300205/dp/B000WK3F64/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2#productDetails]Acerbis Cyclops Headlight Black 2042690001/14300205 : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

I've seen some people use it and tend to like for an affordable headlight.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It was a low watt bulb, just running both beams. I just replaced the connector for a temporary fix. What do you think of this headlight though?

Acerbis Cyclops Headlight Black 2042690001/14300205 : Amazon.com : Automotive

I've seen some people use it and tend to like for an affordable headlight.

If both filiments are burning at the same time, its going to fry that connector real quick..

I'd pull the Hot (+) high beam wire until you get it wired correctly..

 

[seanalan329]

If both filiments are burning at the same time, its going to fry that connector real quick..

I'd pull the Hot (+) high beam wire until you get it wired correctly..

That's what I did.