Headlight adjustment (what idiot designed this?)

[paper]

I finally took the time to adjust my headlights (07' model) correctly.. The low beam was centered, but too high for night driving without blinding oncoming traffic.. The high beam was perfect if I was interested in what was going on in the trees to my right..

So, tonight I grabbed a 10mm wrench and a phillips screw driver, and after a bit of fiddling, was able to get things adjusted where they should be..

I dunno.. Maybe I'm spoiled?? I mean, on my Wing, I just rotate the knob and the electric servo moves the light up and down..:thumbup:

But why did they have to make the adjustments on the FZ like this?? They could have at least put knobs on the adjustment points so you could just reach inside the fairing and do what needs to be done..

This isn't how Japanese design adjustment items.. They make things simple cool.. I work for a company out of Finland, and I can see the Finns doing it this way (or maybe even more of a pain in the ass)..

Hell, even my BMW R80 is nothing more than grabbing the headlight bucket and lifting or pushing by hand until it's where you want it.. You can do it while riding at speed!! And that's from the Germans!!!

Rant over with..

Oh, and I don't think the lights are bright enough, and I'll be looking for stalks to mount some PIAA's on so I can make REAL light..

 

[Motogiro]

I finally took the time to adjust my headlights (07' model) correctly.. The low beam was centered, but too high for night driving without blinding oncoming traffic.. The high beam was perfect if I was interested in what was going on in the trees to my right..

So, tonight I grabbed a 10mm wrench and a phillips screw driver, and after a bit of fiddling, was able to get things adjusted where they should be..

I dunno.. Maybe I'm spoiled?? I mean, on my Wing, I just rotate the knob and the electric servo moves the light up and down..:thumbup:

But why did they have to make the adjustments on the FZ like this?? They could have at least put knobs on the adjustment points so you could just reach inside the fairing and do what needs to be done..

This isn't how Japanese design adjustment items.. They make things simple cool.. I work for a company out of Finland, and I can see the Finns doing it this way (or maybe even more of a pain in the ass)..

Hell, even my BMW R80 is nothing more than grabbing the headlight bucket and lifting or pushing by hand until it's where you want it.. You can do it while riding at speed!! And that's from the Germans!!!

Rant over with..

Oh, and I don't think the lights are bright enough, and I'll be looking for stalks to mount some PIAA's on so I can make REAL light..

Okay but take the weight of your FZ6 and subtract it from your wing and it comes out to the exact weight of the wing headlight servo system. Hahaha! :rof::rof::rof:

 

[hoston1765]

100%. My bike came from the dealer with “coon hunting lights”. As it is the high beam left adjustment is maxed out and only serves to make the road signs really bright. Perhaps Yamaha wants to make it just difficult enough that most will leave it to the dealer for “proper” adjustment but to me it's a safety issue for the rider to obtain good beam coverage.

 

[paper]

Okay but take the weight of your FZ6 and subtract it from your wing and it comes out to the exact weight of the wing headlight servo system. Hahaha! :rof::rof::rof:

FZ6 = 410
Wing = 860

Difference?? 450 pounds (dry)

No wonder I can't get the front tire off the ground!!

But these guys do..

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsPjNYY5GvM&feature=related]YouTube - GL1800 Goldwing Wheelie[/ame]

I'm just not going to beat on a $18,000 motorcycle like that. :thumbup:

 

[paper]

100%. My bike came from the dealer with “coon hunting lights”. As it is the high beam left adjustment is maxed out and only serves to make the road signs really bright. Perhaps Yamaha wants to make it just difficult enough that most will leave it to the dealer for “proper” adjustment but to me it's a safety issue for the rider to obtain good beam coverage.

I managed to get the high beam down and to the left, where it was actually centered in front of me, but it took a LOT of turns with the screwdriver.. At first I didn't know if I was doing anything but then noticed it was coming around.. At least they put a little hole in the inside cover to give access to the screw..:thumbup:

My house didn't have a good place to make the adjustments, so I used a wall at my local gas station.. The guy inside was wondering what the hell I was doing at first, and then asked me if I'd seen the weather report since he was riding also and wasn't going to get done until midnight.. Then I got the "what is that thing?" and a bunch of other questions.. Guess he'd never seen a little sport touring rig with full luggage before..

 

[Motogiro]

I managed to get the high beam down and to the left, where it was actually centered in front of me, but it took a LOT of turns with the screwdriver.. At first I didn't know if I was doing anything but then noticed it was coming around.. At least they put a little hole in the inside cover to give access to the screw..:thumbup:

My house didn't have a good place to make the adjustments, so I used a wall at my local gas station.. The guy inside was wondering what the hell I was doing at first, and then asked me if I'd seen the weather report since he was riding also and wasn't going to get done until midnight.. Then I got the "what is that thing?" and a bunch of other questions.. Guess he'd never seen a little sport touring rig with full luggage before..

Like the windscreen! :rockon:

 

[paper]

Like the windscreen! :rockon:

I went a little overboard when trimming, and if you look closely you can see a bit of blue fairing that's about 1" higher than the top of the screen.. It bothered me at first, but I've learned to live with it.. I knew better, too.. I always take my time when trimming down screens I'm cutting and set them back on the bike before sanding more plastic off..
I just went ahead and rounded the corner and then saw I went too far.. Oh well, you can't just add it back, so I finished it at that height..

I'll get a used/abused stocker one of these days and trim it to the right height and paint the interior black..

 

[mxgolf]

Nice FZ6. I have the same model and color. I need to adjust mine also. How do you like the shorter screen? I have the same one but not cut down. The luggage actually looks pretty good on our bike. Thanks for the alignment tip.

 

[paper]

How do you like the shorter screen? I have the same one but not cut down.

I like the short screen, but the double bubble is still tossing air at my base of the helmet. I've found that if you can get the screen to throw air at the base of your neck, your helmet will be in clean air (quieter) and it allows the venting to work as designed.

From what others have said, the stock screen, cut down, will get me what I'm after.. Please remember that we all sit differently on the bike and some of us have taller or shorter torsos, so height can vary as far as what's needed to do the job.

I learned the trick from my KLR. The Gen 1 KLR's have a "flip" at the last 1 1/2" from the top of the windshield. I first tried riding without the screen and found the windblast at mid chest wasn't working.. So I cut the "flip" off and found it perfect for me.. Many KLR riders keep going to taller and taller screens to get rid of the buffeting, when all that's really needed is making it a little shorter.. After riding my bike, most of the KLR riders I know have cut their's, too.

My KLR after cutting the screen down.

Factory screen.

I figured the FZ would be similar. My bike (purchased used) came with the full length Puig screen and it didn't work for me.

So I trimmed it to the height shown on the other photo a few posts back.. As I mentioned, I'd still like it a little lower, so I'll find a sacrificial stock screen and see what happens. :thumbup:

 

[RJ2112]

I like the short screen, but the double bubble is still tossing air at my base of the helmet. I've found that if you can get the screen to throw air at the base of your neck, your helmet will be in clean air (quieter) and it allows the venting to work as designed.

From what others have said, the stock screen, cut down, will get me what I'm after.. Please remember that we all sit differently on the bike and some of us have taller or shorter torsos, so height can vary as far as what's needed to do the job.

I learned the trick from my KLR. The Gen 1 KLR's have a "flip" at the last 1 1/2" from the top of the windshield. I first tried riding without the screen and found the windblast at mid chest wasn't working.. So I cut the "flip" off and found it perfect for me.. Many KLR riders keep going to taller and taller screens to get rid of the buffeting, when all that's really needed is making it a little shorter.. After riding my bike, most of the KLR riders I know have cut their's, too.

My KLR after cutting the screen down.

Factory screen.

I figured the FZ would be similar. My bike (purchased used) came with the full length Puig screen and it didn't work for me.

So I trimmed it to the height shown on the other photo a few posts back.. As I mentioned, I'd still like it a little lower, so I'll find a sacrificial stock screen and see what happens. :thumbup:

Try increasing the size of the vent hole at the bottom of the screen, before you remove any more material at the top and see what you think. The buffeting is caused by the difference in air pressure. Bigger vent = smaller vacuum behind the screen.......

 

[paper]

In my case, I wanted airflow below my helmet so my helmet was in clean, flowing air.. I was getting buffetting because the bottom of the windblast was at eyeball level. I want it at the base of my neck or even just a touch lower.

Again, it's personal preference, but I like a little wind to the chest (just a little) and clean air for my helmet. That way I get clean, quiet air across the helmet and still all the air needed for my helmet vents to work as designed..

I have a tall torso and this is what's working for me, as long as I don't slouch.

 

[Fred]

One word. Gearwrench.