Ghetto bead breaker (Ghetto Tire Balancer added too)

reiobard

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Ok, here is a very rough design of the "Ghetto bead breaker" that i am planning on making in my basement.

Materials should be 3 x (2 x 4 x 8 Pine)

One big nut and bolt to act as a hinge

some nails or screws ( i haven't decided yet)

All in all should be about $20 or so and i will have my own tire changer. (Balancer plans to come Later)


Looking at this can anyone see anything that i am missing or should consider?
 
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lonesoldier84

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Re: Ghetto bead breaker

every time you post i ignore what youve posted and admire your avatar.

this is another one of those times.

:)
 

sxty8goats

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Re: Ghetto bead breaker

I would want more leverage. Right now, the breaker ram seems to be at the end of the arm and the whole unit extends about 2 or 3 feet from teh wall, the leverage handle only extending 6 to 8 inches from the breaker ram. If I were building that I would have the breaker ram @ 8 to 10 inches from the wall. Extend the lever another 2 feet or so to give me more force. I might hinge the breaker ram as well so that it hangs straight down no matter where the lever arm is. That would also make it easer to 'Store" as it would fold in as you raised the arm. Then you could fasten the arm to the wall.

I'd probably make the ram short enough so that I could kneel on the floor and work the tire with one hand and the lever with the other.
 

reiobard

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Re: Ghetto bead breaker

I agree, i would put it as close to the wall as i could and still fit the tire in there, the more leverage the better. About hinging the "drop arm?", i will think about it, I see where you are coming from, but i think i would also want is to not move when i am pushing on it.


The measurements are completely wrong on that picture as it was a MS Paint drawing that i did in about 10 minutes...
 

pkoosa

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Ingenuity is great, but just in case... there's one at Harbor Freight for $20 and a wheel balancer for $60

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

98875.gif
 

sxty8goats

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Re: Ghetto bead breaker

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The attached pdf is a dimensioned drawing of the parts. There may be misspellings I r not a spelar.. :)

This is only my ideas on how I would build it if I were to build it. I have not as of yet and someone else came up with the idea. Hope this can help someone.
 

sxty8goats

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Re: Ghetto bead breaker

Looking at it now, I may increase the handle hight or decrease the ram legnth by 2 or 3 inches to give more clearance under the wheel. Probably start where I have it and cut the ram arm if needed.
 

reiobard

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reiobard

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Re: Ghetto bead breaker

attachment.php


attachment.php


attachment.php


The attached pdf is a dimensioned drawing of the parts. There may be misspellings I r not a spelar.. :)

This is only my ideas on how I would build it if I were to build it. I have not as of yet and someone else came up with the idea. Hope this can help someone.

I think that is what i will build, same concept as the one i drew, but i like the fact that is is all measured out and your drawings are much more pretty
 

sxty8goats

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Re: Ghetto bead breaker

if you want to stabilize the arm you could add a guide arm below the hing arm. as shown it is 13 inches long, 10 inches center to center on the bolts. Lengthening these distances will push the arm out as you apply pressure, shorting the distance will push the ram towards the wall as you apply pressure.

attachment.php
 
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sxty8goats

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Re: Ghetto bead breaker

I think that is what i will build, same concept as the one i drew, but i like the fact that is is all measured out and your drawings are much more pretty

I love Solidworks. :) That would have taken me 2 hours in AC. It took @ 20 minutes in Solid. And solid lets me add textures and colors easily as well

The 'tire' is on a 17" 'rim'. I modeled it to judge the arm length. I think the HF breaker may require a bit too much strength to break most tires because of the stiff side walls. I've seen the 2x4 used in a video somewhere.
 

reiobard

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I think i will try it without the guide on it to see how it works.


it is better to be lazy upfront and hope it works, IMO, than to build it right the first time..... or something like that....


Also i like the wing-nut idea so that i can bring it with me and all i would need is a 1/2" hole in a wall stud to mount it to.
 
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