Gas tank pivot bolt

[04fizzer]

Does anyone know the specs on the gas tank pivot bolt? I gave it one too many snugs last night and stripped 'er out. Ronayers.com has them for $0.88, but I'm not paying $8 to ship it. I'm looking to either find something suitable locally, at McMaster, or make one if the first two options don't pan out.

 

[FIZZER6]

I would try running the threads through a proper metric die before going for a new bolt (depending on how stripped they are. Not sure how you could strip that though unless it cross threaded somehow.

 

[04fizzer]

I would try running the threads through a proper metric die before going for a new bolt (depending on how stripped they are. Not sure how you could strip that though unless it cross threaded somehow.

I over tightened it one too many times. A die isn't going to help it. Stripped is stripped.

 

[FIZZER6]

I over tightened it one too many times. A die isn't going to help it. Stripped is stripped.

Wow you must have a kungfu grip! That is a large bolt to strip by overtightening. If I was in your shoes I would probably just try to get an equal length and thickness stainless bolt from the hardware store and cut it to the proper length with my dremel if necessary and clean and bevel the threads on the tip so it would thread in smoothly. The trick is the thread rate must match the original metric bolt thread.

 

[Motogiro]

What about the female end that the bolt goes into. The nut. How are the threads in the nut? You may have also stripped the nut and need the clean the threads up with a tap.

 

[FinalImpact]

Wow you must have a kungfu grip! That is a large bolt to strip by overtightening. If I was in your shoes I would probably just try to get an equal length and thickness stainless bolt from the hardware store and cut it to the proper length with my dremel if necessary and clean and bevel the threads on the tip so it would thread in smoothly. The trick is the thread rate must match the original metric bolt thread.

Careful on that as most SS bolts 304 etc are very soft and don't do well under torque and vibration. Are you talking about the two at the front or the long one under the seat? My concern is that after you install it and use for a while is that it stretches and breaks. Look for bolts of this specification 410-H, 416-H, 410-HT, 416-HT as opposed to the 300 Series which are much softer. 303/304 etc.

Some light reading on the subject.

http://www.ssina.com/download_a_file/fasteners.pdf

 

[Motogiro]

He talking about the pivot bolt. The long hinge bolt at the rear of the tank. There should be no problem with bolt strength because of the sheet metal ear the nut is mounted on. How you would strip that is a mystery to me cuz you really can't torque that too much. Maybe it's a soft bolt on purpose? That way the threads come off and the nut thread is saved? It's a shoulder bolt and the shoulder is it's stop.

 

[FinalImpact]

Careful on that as most SS bolts 304 etc are very soft and don't do well under torque and vibration. Are you talking about the two at the front or the long one under the seat? My concern is that after you install it and use for a while is that it stretches and breaks. Look for bolts of this specification 410-H, 416-H, 410-HT, 416-HT as opposed to the 300 Series which are much softer. 303/304 etc.

Some light reading on the subject.

http://www.ssina.com/download_a_file/fasteners.pdf

Apparently the title states what I failed to see - the forest through the trees. . . :ban:

 

[FinalImpact]

He talking about the pivot bolt. The long hinge bolt at the rear of the tank. There should be no problem with bolt strength because of the sheet metal ear the nut is mounted on. How you would strip that is a mystery to me cuz you really can't torque that too much. Maybe it's a soft bolt on purpose? That way the threads come off and the nut thread is saved? It's a shoulder bolt and the shoulder is it's stop.

True - you could shove a section of 12g copper wire in and bend the ends over and be just fine as its used in "shear" condition as opposed to tensile strength application like the front bolts.

I'm gonna go get some COFFEE!!!!!

 

[04fizzer]

What about the female end that the bolt goes into. The nut. How are the threads in the nut? You may have also stripped the nut and need the clean the threads up with a tap.

I'm 95% sure that it's the bolt. It looked like it was on its last legs before I put it in. The thread didn't look so hot.

It definitely seems like a soft steel. It's never torqued down well and given me a solid feeling. I knew it was just a matter of time before it gave up the ghost.

I'll pull it out and go to a hardware store and find a comparable one. I was just hoping someone might know what the length and thread on it was so I could do some searching around on mcmaster and grainger while I was at work.

 

[04fizzer]

True - you could shove a section of 12g copper wire in and bend the ends over and be just fine as its used in "shear" condition as opposed to tensile strength application like the front bolts.

I'm gonna go get some COFFEE!!!!!

Right. It's not a structural piece in the grand scheme of things. It's why I'm not paying the $8 shipping at this point. I'd order some threaded rod and some nuts before I paid that much to ship a $1 part.

 

[tedrogers]

Same thing happened to me today! I think its an m6 soft stainless steel. Any ideas on the length though, or an OEM part number for comparison?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The TOTAL (end to end) lenth is 96 mm's on my 2007. A 94mm, would work as well. It is an M6

If the nut (attached to the gas tank) is damaged beyond repair, I'd drill the old stripped threads away (just slightly larger), then put a self locking SS nylon nut on over it. Its not going anywhere...

The shoulder of the bolt does NOT BOTTOM OUT where it screws into the fuel tank tab (that'd be the blurry picture)

 

[tedrogers]

The TOTAL (end to end) lenth is 96 mm's on my 2007. A 94mm, would work as well. It is an M6

If the nut (attached to the gas tank) is damaged beyond repair, I'd drill the old stripped threads away (just slightly larger), then put a self locking SS nylon nut on over it. Its not going anywhere...

The shoulder of the bolt does NOT BOTTOM OUT where it screws into the fuel tank tab (that'd be the blurry picture)

Thanks Towensend. I managed to find a 100mm M6 nickel plated bolt, and this works really well. Had to cut if down to size and round the sharp threads off at the end, but it's a good fit.