fz1 bars arrive

[discgolfdude]

So here are my bar, now the question I have is how to I take the controls off my oem bars and put them on fz1 bar? I don't have access to the service manual, it is on my dead computer, and my wife will not let me down load it to hers! So any help would be great.

Thanks

 

[gpostarmy]

OK, so your wife is probably paranoid like mine. She thinks if you download anything you might get a virus and your computer will grow arms and leg and run off a cliff. I can tell if you download the digital copies from Boneman's FZ6 site you will be fine. So tell the wife to deal with it, and post some pics. I am thinking about doing this mod myself.

 

[Motogiro]

The hardest part of my install was getting the left grip off. The rest is pretty self explanatory. The other issue is there is a pilot hole if I remember correctly, on the right side that you will have to drill. You do this after you've mounted the bars and checked your clearances from right to left, lock to lock. So you will mount every thing but not tighten down hard so you can see how it all will be positioned and then measure and mark where the pilot hole needs to go.
Start out with a very small bit to pilot the larger drill bit unless you have an automatic center punch to give you a solid start. This way the drill bit won't walk away on the radius surface.
I think some people cut the original pilot pin off and just rely on the clamping.
oh yeah you'll probably have to loosen the brake line coming out of the master cylinder so you can adjust the line. Loosen just enough to get the rotation you need so that you don't introduce air and also loose fluid. Put a rag under the brake line for any weepage.

 

[Erci]

I'm one of the people who ground the pilot pin off. Most bikes don't have these and no one ever complains of controls rotating. Mine's never moved.
The benefit (besides the fact that it's easier to grind off plastic vs drill steel bar) is that I was able to adjust right controls up/down and in/out.

For getting the grip off the clutch side air compressor helps a great deal, but if you don't have one, use a relatively thin screwdriver to pry up the edge.. spray WD40 under the grip and start working the screwdriver all the way in. Once it's in, start rotating the handle (like you're tightening a bolt) which will make the screwdriver go all the way around the bar.. may have to give it few more shots of WD40 along the way. Once you make it all the way around the bar, the grip should slide right off. This is only relevant if you plan to reuse the grips. Otherwise just cut it off

I also loosened the bar clamp bolts before removing the controls. This way you can slide the bar slightly to one side and pull the controls off on the opposite side without putting too much strain on lines/wires. Repeat for the other side.

 

[Sotex]

Just did this bar-swap last weekend and have been very pleased with the results in the short time since.

I had replacement aftermarket grips on hand (pun intended), so I elected simply to slice off the originals, which of course made removal of the left grip easy.

I loosened the original bar and then removed everything attached. It helps to be able to ease the loosened bar left and right to allow clearance necessary to slide off the clutch lever mount and throttle assembly. The clutch lever and brake lever mounts unbolted in a straightforward way; the throttle assembly had three screws, one of which was well-recessed and not necessarily obvious on first glance.

I did drill the FZ1 bar to allow for the positioning pin on the throttle assembly. On the OEM bar, there was a hole already present, but it was positioned 90 degrees "off" and too far inward for correct mounting of the FZ6 throttle. The existing hole on the left side, however, matched exactly with the same hole on the original FZ6 bars. I did notice when re-installing the throttle assembly that, even with just a single screw snugged down, the unit clamped on the bar quite well. So I think if you elected to cut out the pin, it would be fine. Seemed like that would be the case, anyway.

My project also included some new brake lines, so I can't offer any advice on needing to adjust the orientation of the OEM line from the master cylinder. Sounds like folks have had luck (no leaks) loosening it ever so slightly, adjusting, and then re-tightening. I recall the manual spec'd 30 Nm / 22 ft-lb on the union bolt at the master cylinder.

Positioning the bars essentially flat allowed just sufficient clearance for the switches to clear the tank at full lock each way.

As I recall, that pretty much covers it. Nothing complicated, as always it just paid not to rush...

Good luck!

 

[discgolfdude]

Thanks all

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[discgolfdude]

I installed the bar this morning, I'll post pics tonight!

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