LCR
Member
Since your saying you were having problems with your battery and/or charging system I would def get that checked out before you start taking engine covers off.
Since your saying you were having problems with your battery and/or charging system I would def get that checked out before you start taking engine covers off.
Subscribed to hear the result. I'm putting my money on a stator issue.
Since your saying you were having problems with your battery and/or charging system I would def get that checked out before you start taking engine covers off.
Kenny,
This procedure does say oil so it looks like you have to dump the oil. The plug is #1 and the crankshaft position sensor is #5 The rotor is #6.
Hope your oil change is near due.
See attached.
I had a charging system/battery issue last May, after changing the battery the problem was fixed. But once again, after 4-5 months with a new battery, I am having charging/battery issue again. This is why I am thinking that there is something wrong with my charging system. Someone had mentioned that it was the voltage regulator. I jumped started my bike with a car with it's motor running and somebody said that that was very bad thing to do.
If it's a failing charging system, this could lead to my failed crankshaft posisiton sensor.
I'm pissed off on hearing that, I just swapped out my oil and filter last week. Not even 200 miles on the clock with the new change. I put the good oil in too, the Castrol 12.99 per quart.
Hopefully, it's just a loose wire or disconnecting the battery will reset everything.
Otherwise, I think this this is going to the repair shop, this repair sounds like it's getting too technical. Mechanically, I suck. Period.
To clairify things, are you saying not to take off the Cranking Sensor Cover until the oil is drained?
The reason you can damage your regulator/rectifier when you jump the bike from a car is if the car is running, the regulator on the bike sees it's threshold voltage provided from the car charging system and because bike uses a shunt type regulator it passes additional current through a solid state device that is coupled to a heat sink and dissipates the additional current as heat. Since a cars charging system provides much more current than the bike's regulator/rectifier can dissipate, the bike's regulator can be damaged.
You can jump start from a car but the car must not have the engine running.
Yes he needs to have a working battery and charging system.
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Too bad there isn't a bike being parted out.
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Looks like I'll be a cruiser dude for a while. Everybody is telling me that I don't look the part (riding in full gear). I want to look like a pro, not a poser.
So my gameplan is to change out the voltage regulator and stator first, or are they the same? What part number would that be on Ron Meyers? I want to make sure I order the correct.
Too bad there isn't a bike being parted out.
I might try disconnecting the battery and see if I can get the error code to dissapear. But I am not going to go near the Crankshaft Sensor unitl the charging system is swapped out.
Looks like I'll be a cruiser dude for a while. Everybody is telling me that I don't look the part (riding in full gear). I want to look like a pro, not a poser.
Thanks everyone,
I ended up taking the 1600 Roadster Cruiser after I got the bike home. I stopped to get fuel because the fuel light was on, find out I didn't receive the fuel key. Now I'll probably run out fuel on the way back home.
Not a good day.
The current battery installed which is about 4-5 months old has never been subjected to a jump start. It has been the previous battery(s) that were jump started. Which makes me to believe why would a new battery would go south so quickly?
I have the day off tommorow, I should be able to trouble shoot a lot of the things that everyone has suggested then.
Once again, thanks everyone!
Update: Battery disconnected for 30 minutes, and after connecting still gives me an error code 12.
Ontop of the baterry, I had written in the install date with mileage. 5/28/11, and the current mileage makes it at 9,000 miles.
I am going to Cycle Gear and get a new battery. They will replace it for free if my battery cannot hold a charge. I had it on the tender for the past two days so it will have a full charge I'm presuming, how are they going to determine if it's bad?