Electrical problems

[Plymothian]

Sorry if you've already answered by posts in a previous thread, but now I have a new problem. Slightly long-winded but here's the history of faults:

Had fault code 46 appear, garage said it was loose wire on reg/rec and gave it back to me.

Had trouble starting so fitted new battery.

Took it out on Sunday for a long ride, no fault lights, but then had two bulbs blow and bike totally died. When I came to a stop the new battery was totally dead and the RR was smoking (battery is now dead, won't hold any charge).

Fitted new RR, used an older battery which started the bike on the button, but when I came to start it after work it didn't even have enough power to prime the fuel pump (the whirring at ignition didn't appear).

I've just fitted a brand new battery (pre-charged it of course) and the fuel pump still will not prime.

So, it has new RR, new battery but now not priming at start. I've used the correct battery and RR, all of the connectors look clean and not corroded. Any ideas what to check next? If it could be a number of things then I will take it back to the garage and pay for it to be done, but didn't want to do that if there's something obvious I have missed and an easy(ish) fix.

thanks,

 

[greg]

Next obvious item is the stator/generator. When these go they usually take the R/R with them IME.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Agreed with the above but the fuel pump should still whirl up (cold) as its right then, running off the battery.

You may want to check your fuses. Popping a couple of bulbs at the same time, sounds like you had some MAJOR VOLTAGE running thru the system..

If you raise the tank to get to the battery, put a volt meter on it. Should be about 12.8 volts NOT running.

You CAN jump start it from an auto battery (car NOT RUNNING!!) Once started, disconnect your jumpers and see if the running voltage is charging. should be above 13 volts at idle, about 14 volts from 2,500 to 5,000 RPM's.

The below pic shows the two connectors. The power plug to the fuel pump, while initially turning the key on, should show 12 volts for a couple of seconds. If your getting power thru the line and the fuel pump doesn't work, pump is likely toast. I tend to think its a fuse or battery related at least re the fuel pump..

Double click on the pic to enlarge...

 

[Motogiro]

I know this might sound a little simple but are you sure the red kill switch is on and making good contact? We've had quite a few kill/run switches come up faulty, especially in wet weather parts of the world. When you turn the key on do the instrument lights come on? Does the horn beep strongly? The headlights will not come on until the engine has started so you won't see a headlight when you turn the key on.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates???

 

[Plymothian]

Any updates???

Thanks Guys - fitted the new RR and a new battery. I was so concerned about the lack of the fuel priming whir at ignition, that I didn't check to see if the kill switch was off! Turns out, because I left the bike at work overnight I had turned the kill switch off. It started fine, I've done about 100 miles over the weekend and it starts and runs perfectly, no more error codes and no more blown bulbs. I still can't figure out why, after fitting a new battery, that the fuel wasn't priming at ignition on - maybe when there was a near-dead battery in there it actually primed but it was so weak I didn't hear it?

Whatever, I phoned the garage and they said it would be pointless to check everything over whilst it was running fine, as all their electrical tests would come out normal. Fingers crossed it's all sorted now.

Thanks all for your help

 

[Plymothian]

Also, I've learned a lot more from this problem which is a big bonus. I will now keep my tank full (to try and prevent fuel pump corroding in an empty tank), and will immediately get a multi meter out whenever I get an error code!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As Motogiro (Cliff) mentioned above, with the RED kill switch turned off, the fuel pump will NOT GET POWER and the bike will NOT SPIN OVER/CRANK.

Re a fuller tank, it does kep the pump cooler, corrosion, the pump is mostly plastic, corrosion really isn't an issue.

Now, the inside of the fuel tank, partially full, like to rust and corrode. Especially in humid areas, left to sit, etc. The fuel, sloshing about, tends to protect the inner tank itself. There's been many posts on rusty, inner fuel tanks..

BTW, as noted above, the RED kill switch IS a weak point on the bike IF used REGULARLY. I would NOT use it except in an emergency and just use the key.

Congrates on the fix, safe riding!

 

[Plymothian]

RED kill switch IS a weak point[/B] on the bike IF used REGULARLY. I would NOT use it except in an emergency and just use the key!

Yes I never, ever use it, but I had to leave the bike at work overnight so I put it on just in case it out-smarted a would-be-thief! The only thing this achieved was outsmarting myself. Doh!

Oh, and now I'm leaking coolant....something else to look into