Chain Cleaning

Totally 100% up to you. It is your bike and your body.
Think for a second about this though. 70 mph leaned over, accelerating hard to pull around a good corner. Snap, whap whap, and then it locks the rear solid. After that nothing but bad news can come.

In addition to preventing premature wear, it gives a oppertunity to inspect, and adjust it on a set interval. It might be something to consider.
 
I have seen three people in two years missing fingers whilst trying to clean chains with the engine running. So please don't do it.:ban::Im With Stupid:
 
This a fairly newb question, but I'm gonna ask it anyways. TIA

I was cleaning the chain the other day per everyones instructions and was trying to deciper from the manual exactly were to measure for the chain tension. The manual seemed very vague on where to measure from (I assume the bottom of the swingarm) and to (top of the chain, bottom of the chain, etc???). Any help and possible a better diagram would be great. Thanks
-Sam
 
Correct, and that measurement should be taken from the middle of the free chain, i.e. halfway between the fore and aft sprockets.
 
I know there was a lot of people removing them, I don't get why, maybe someone on thr forum has one you should post in the wanted section.:Sport:
 
i will have a look tomorrow morning in the light to see if there is a mounting point.

Mine is for sale!!!! I can provide you with the hardware you need to complete the mount...shipping might be expensive though. I'm sure you can buy a new one from ronayers.com but it will cost you.
________
RufousSexyGrl
 
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I've heard this before, but according to the user manual:



:confused:

I know what you're saying about the manual - that's kind of why I mentioned it. The FZ6 is my first bike, purchased used, and so I promptly set my tension according to the method in the manual and merrily started riding away until one day an experienced rider friend looked at me sitting on the bike and immediately mentioned how tight the chain looked. He helped me get it setup with me on the bike (its a two person job that way) and it's way better to ride now - less clunking when shifting, less jerkiness in 1st at low speeds, more consistent over bumps - like a whole new bike.

After thinking about why you have some slack in the first place (prevent too much tension on output gear/shaft, prevent limiting suspension travel in the rear, save the chain + maybe others) I can't figure out how you could do this without being on the bike as you would when riding. The only way it wouldn't have an effect is if the swingarm pivot and output shaft lined up so that there was no relative distance change between the front and rear sprockets as the swingarm moves, but the FZ6's definitely changes.
 
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honestly when I adjust my chain I do it by feel. not sure exactly what the manual says. I check chain tension with the toe method. I guess after a while you just get a feel for it
 
honestly when I adjust my chain I do it by feel. not sure exactly what the manual says. I check chain tension with the toe method. I guess after a while you just get a feel for it
The toe works for me to, ocasionally switch to the thumb and forefinger wiggle method.

In all seriousness I rotate the wheel and find the tight spot. I then make my adjustment from there.
 
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