Chain adjustment bolt on fz6 s2 2009 right side.

[karl1213]

Anyone ever had this bolt seize up and snap off?

Mine snapped off while trying to remove it. I tried wd40 and blowtorch but it wouldn't move.

So then tried a extract tool which didn't work so ended up drilling it out and now left with a big hole.

Would this fail an mot? Do you think it's safe to ride without on in as they are only there to help with adjusting the chain right?



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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Don't know if it would pass a safety inspection (probably not, if caught). The axle does get tightened a bunch BUT the forces of 90HP pulling
on that axle, wouldn't surprise me to see it move. I wouldn't want to throw a chain thru the engine and make it (and myself) worse..

Sounds like the two dis-similar metals seized...

I'd personally pull the swing-arm and bring it to a machine shop. Have them Heli-arc the hole closed and re-tap it to match the left side...

That or another swing arm.

 

[fazil]

I changed them to stainless steel bolts before i swapped S1 swing arm with S2 swing arm. I guess original bolts are not stainless steel.

 

[Motogiro]

Just to make sure. The nut on that bolt is a pal nut and it locks the bolt in the thread so as not to turn unless the nut is loosened. Was the nut loosened first? If that bolt thread and hole are now useless, you might pull the axle, drill and tap for the next thread size and use a new bolt and pal nut.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I don't think you'd be able to get a bigger wrench in there for the new, larger bolt and lock nut Cliff.

Certainly worth it for the Op to see if a larger bolt AND WRENCH would fit in there..

 

[Motogiro]

I don't think you'd be able to get a bigger wrench in there for the new, larger bolt and lock nut Cliff.

Certainly worth it for the Op to see if a larger bolt AND WRENCH would fit in there..

Another alternative might be a nut-insert. The insert would be robust enough for this application. they are easy to install and there should be one for the metric size of that adjuster bolt.

Does anyone know the metric size? Maybe M6?

Here's a link to Grainger where they have nut-inserts. Not the rubber ones!
https://www.grainger.com/category/n...ers/ecatalog/N-8o2?perPage=32&requestedPage=1

 

[karl1213]

Nut was loose. Gonna try and re tap it

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[Motogiro]

Nut was loose. Gonna try and re tap it

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I'm imagining the size you will retap the hole for will be larger than the original bolt and nut. As TownsendsFJR1300 pointed out previously, you'll want to confirm that the pal nut and the new bolt will be able to turn freely in that limited space.

You may find an SAE size as the next size will work better than the next metric size. A nut-insert should also be available in the original metric size.
You might want to treat your new bolt as well as the adjuster bolt on the other side with an anti seize compound/grease to prevent future problems.

 

[karl1213]

Successfully re tapped it with a 5/16 tap.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

I figured the hole was way too big.

Could of heli-coiled it and put steel threads in there, the correct size.

But the 5/16" will work fine. Great job!

 

[Motogiro]

Excellent! Good to know this and it adds to our collective knowledge to help anyone who may experience the same problem.

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[karl1213]

I'll write down how I done it.

Filed down the bolt so it was flush. ( cordless drill with a sanding attachment worked well)

Hole punched the middle

Extra long 3mm hss drill bit then extra long hss 5mm drill bit ( you could try a extractor tool at this point ) then finally a extra long hss 7mm drill bit.

Used a 5/16 tap with a bit of cutting oil. Very slowly using a spanner start to turn 1/2 then 1/4 back and so on. ( didn't want to mess it up so took my time)

Use compressed air to clear the hole and slowly try your new bolt.

That's what worked for me



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