Cam Chain Tensioner.

[heath_AU]

Well i managed to get a APE manual unit online and am looking to have my local mechanic install her. I am told this is just a 20 minute job so figured i would be better get him to do it rather than risk a total failure if i messed it up

Speaking of making a mess of it - have a read of the post below.
How much does this guy fail. I know i shouldnt laugh .... but i did

How to fail at installing an APE cam chain tensioner - Suzuki Forums

 

[Motogiro]

Well i managed to get a APE manual unit online and am looking to have my local mechanic install her. I am told this is just a 20 minute job so figured i would be better get him to do it rather than risk a total failure if i messed it up

Speaking of making a mess of it - have a read of the post below.
How much does this guy fail. I know i shouldnt laugh .... but i did

How to fail at installing an APE cam chain tensioner - Suzuki Forums

That poor person kissed the valves. That's a top end job and hopefully they didn't damage the piston tops.

 

[n0other]

Maybe I'm missing something but there's no such thing as engine being at TDC, it's a per cylinder/piston term, there's no point in time when all pistons are at TDC or the engine would shake violently.

Also: The procedure requires the motor to be at TDC. You don't want to jump timing and kiss valves!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Maybe I'm missing something but there's no such thing as engine being at TDC, it's a per cylinder/piston term, there's no point in time when all pistons are at TDC or the engine would shake violently.

Your taking it out of context, the piston (the one which the valves are being checked, is actually on the compression cycle TDC).

I believe Cliff was referring to the #1 piston (which is used for setting cam chain timing) (cam's lined up accordingly, crank on TDC mark, front of cam chain taught)


Note, its not unusual (on an FJR forum) for the guys to remove the cam chain cover (same set up as the FZ6) and PLASTIC TIE THE CAM CHAIN TAUGHT(around itself pulling in the middle), while the cam chain tensioner is removed and replaced. It ELIMINATES any possibility of the chain skipping a tooth. If the chain is very worn/loose, it is possible for the chain to move a tooth when there's NO tension on it causing the above Suzuki issues.

 

[n0other]

Cool, I just wanted to clarify this, I read the whole thread and it was mentioned multiple times that "engine" or "motor" should be a TDC, not the 1st piston.

Your taking it out of context, the piston (the one which the valves are being checked, is actually on the compression cycle TDC).

I believe Cliff was referring to the #1 piston (which is used for setting cam chain timing) (cam's lined up accordingly, crank on TDC mark, front of cam chain taught)


Note, its not unusual (on an FJR forum) for the guys to remove the cam chain cover (same set up as the FZ6) and PLASTIC TIE THE CAM CHAIN TAUGHT(around itself pulling in the middle), while the cam chain tensioner is removed and replaced. It ELIMINATES any possibility of the chain skipping a tooth. If the chain is very worn/loose, it is possible for the chain to move a tooth when there's NO tension on it causing the above Suzuki issues.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Cool, I just wanted to clarify this, I read the whole thread and it was mentioned multiple times that "engine" or "motor" should be a TDC, not the 1st piston.

Actually, if just R&Ring the tensioner, the engine doesn't need to be at TDC. If pulling a cam or something moved, yes, set everything back up (cams/crank) at TDC for cylinder # 1(again on the compression stroke)

The plastic wire tie method I mentioned above is just a absolute, the chain didn't move, preventive measure.

You just don't want the chain jumping a tooth. If checking valves, yes, TDC on the compression stroke for THAT PARTICULAR CYLINDER is a MUST.

The thread kind of got off topic for a bit...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Also: The procedure requires the motor to be at TDC. You don't want to jump timing and kiss valves!

Actually Cliff, this is NOT true (unless you pulled the cams, something moved etc). Should a valve spring have tension on it and spin the cam just a tooth, NOT good...

As long as the cam chain stays in the same place on both cams and crank(doesn't jump), your good to go with the R&R.

 

[VEGASRIDER]

The tensioner is the obvious part to replace and may solve the problem. But what happened to me was that it was only a temporary fix.

My Cam Chain may have stretched so I ended up replacing the Chain and guides. If it continues to rattle, your crankshaft position sensor will eventually get grinded away and your bike will seize. Ended up going through two of those too.

 

[heath_AU]

Well last weekend a friend helped me install the tensioner and i am stoked to say not only did it go to plan but the bike runs so smoothly now. That gawdawful rattling noise no longer emanates from the right side of my block. Cant tell you how happy i am. While we had the tank/airbox/battery off we decided to install some block off plates and remove all the AIS hoses, leaving the AIS valve installed but plugged up. Runs like it should now. No more annoying burbling when under 4000rpm

I would just add though that the APE unit did not quite fit perfectly on my 2008 FZ6N. The holes didnt quite line up. They were about a half mm out but enough to require the holes to be bored out slightly larger to fit.
Further more they didnt include shorter bolts with the kit so as the APE unit has a flange which is around 5mm thinner i had to source my own shorter bolts to install it. Bit of a shame really. I emailed the supplier but i doubt he bothered to pass on the feedback to the manufacturer.
Anyway - if you do decide to get one my advice is to be prepared for this.