Broken fuel pump outlet, what should I do?

[artibramuir]

I bought a used 2004 FZ6 on Monday and am still working out the gremlins.

A few minutes ago I went to investigate why the fuel gauge sensor wasn't working. Turns out it wasn't plugged in, and plugging it in fixed it. Alright, quick victories!

But in the process of putting everything up, I dropped the tank a few inches. Then I started smelling gas. When I lifted the tank to look underneath, I saw that the outlet to the fuel pump was snapped mostly in half and covered in fuel (picture attached).

What should I do? So far all my google searches have ended in "buy another fuel pump, get one for an R6 to save money". But it's just this tiny connector--surely I don't need to replace the whole pump?

 

[Motogiro]

:welcome: to our great forum!

That right angle looks like someone tried to melt the plastic together. Is that the case or was it damaged already?
The only hing I can think of is a way to reconnect using a hollow threaded insert that you could epoxy in. the plastic will probably be and inert type plastic that will not glue back together,

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Comparing the two below pictures of the same pump(inside, and the outter side), it appears the internal (working part) of the pump can be pulled out and swapped to another "exterior" (already burned out) pump? Cliff, do you agree from what I'm seeing?

If so, finding a burned out pump(should be able to find one here for real cheap), swapping your internals to that would work and be cheaper.

And agreed, it looks like someone already tried to fix it (unless you messed with it).

 

[artibramuir]

I didn't mess with it (other than dropping the tank a little). Looking for a burned out pump is a great idea, I think I'll do that.

 

[FinalImpact]

You might look through here. It has pictures and details of the pump. Fuel pump repair

Off hand I'd say you lucky it broke now while in your driveway as opposed to riding and fire down below... Hope you find the parts you need!

 

[artibramuir]

Thanks, guys! What a great forum.

 

[FinalImpact]

Also - for others who stumble upon this, you might consider re-routing the vent hose. My ECU tray is moved up 20mm so I have a little less room. The OEM routing made it easy to pinch the hose and you had to reach through frame and pull it down. I moved it to the right side and ran it between the tank and outlet just so there is less risk of breaking the outlet and kinking the vent hose. You'll also notice the RR is moved slightly to.

Hose moved off frame to under outlet, link ro repair tips:


Hose moved off frame to under outlet:



JJD952 - hose routing

 

[FB400]

I had this happen to me the same way in 2012. I got careless and paid the price.

New pumps are ridiculously expensive. cost me $425. I was all happy I didn't have to pay shipping.

I have my original pump and I epoxied the living crap out of the outlet.
it should function as normal. but because I have OCD I just didn't want to risk using a repaired pump.

I suppose you could add a layer of fiberglass material and resin. it's already stronger than the original outlet.

If you would like to have it just pay me fair shipping and it is yours.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I had this happen to me the same way in 2012. I got careless and paid the price.

New pumps are ridiculously expensive. cost me $425. I was all happy I didn't have to pay shipping.

I have my original pump and I epoxied the living crap out of the outlet.
it should function as normal. but because I have OCD I just didn't want to risk using a repaired pump.

I suppose you could add a layer of fiberglass material and resin. it's already stronger than the original outlet.

If you would like to have it just pay me fair shipping and it is yours.

Definitly don't pitch it if the internal motor is still good. That's what usually fails on them..

 

[FinalImpact]

I had this happen to me the same way in 2012. I got careless and paid the price.

New pumps are ridiculously expensive. cost me $425. I was all happy I didn't have to pay shipping.

I have my original pump and I epoxied the living crap out of the outlet.
it should function as normal. but because I have OCD I just didn't want to risk using a repaired pump.

I suppose you could add a layer of fiberglass material and resin. it's already stronger than the original outlet.

If you would like to have it just pay me fair shipping and it is yours.

Rep point for your generous offer! :thumbup:

OP -If you end up swapping any parts over (unlikely); pay attention to these locking tabs and open your BROKEN pump body first! let it be your learning curve.....
CLICK IMAGE for link....

 

[artibramuir]

Thanks for the illustrations, FinalImpact--I have a feeling I will need them. And huge thanks to FB400 for the part, that is awesome. I'll report back here first thing after surgery.

 

[artibramuir]

I just received the pump from FB400--thanks again for that, that was so generous. Still waiting on the o-ring before I can start--I ordered it on Amazon on Sunday and it finally shipped today. Ready to get this thing running again!

 

[FinalImpact]

I just received the pump from FB400--thanks again for that, that was so generous. Still waiting on the o-ring before I can start--I ordered it on Amazon on Sunday and it finally shipped today. Ready to get this thing running again!

You might just pop that apart and clean the strainer. Experiment on the old one. And if you just happened to grab some pictures of an actual FZ6 fuel pump the electric motor & pump assembly and post it, that would be great.

Thanks in advance!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

BTW, you can put the pump in the tank W/O the large O-ring (DON'T bolt down).

You can slip the O-ring over with the pump loose still in the tank.

We had a member get stuck hundreds of miles from home with a cut o-ring- leaking. I overnighted him one, he swapped it in the parking lot leaving the pump in the tank (just loosening and pulling up some). Be gentle with the fuel sending arm.

To remove the pump from the tank, its MUCH easier to remove the fuel gauge sending unit from the pump WHILE IN THE TANK(see below pic's). It is tight and very ackward but push the tabs as shown and the two will come apart..

You can install it into the tank, once done, with it all assembled(with fuel level switch.)

 

[artibramuir]

Well, one bit of good news and three bits of bad news.

Good news:
1. Got all the correct parts and got them installed without breaking anything.

Bad news:
1. Wasn't able to take pictures.
2. Couldn't get it to start. Not sure why. I could hear the fuel pump running (I left my old pump in and just swapped in FB400's repaired housing).
3. The seventh or eighth time I pulled off the tank to figure out why it wasn't starting, the fuel sending port snapped in the same place it snapped before.

So now I'm back exactly where I started. FB400, looks like you were right to shell out for a new one--the repair looked and felt so sturdy, but it broke without me dropping the tank or even putting pressure on it. I'm wondering if the fuel ate through the epoxy.

As for what to do next, I'm torn between just buying a new one and trying to make a bootleg solution with JB Weld. Any thoughts?

 

[artibramuir]

The first time it broke, only half a cup or so of fuel came out. This time, the entire tank is draining through the fuel sending outlet. So I'm thinking I don't have a proper seal between the pump and the outer housing / sending outlet, which would have kept it from building proper pressure and starting.

The tank is still draining, so I can't check just yet.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The first time it broke, only half a cup or so of fuel came out. This time, the entire tank is draining through the fuel sending outlet. So I'm thinking I don't have a proper seal between the pump and the outer housing / sending outlet, which would have kept it from building proper pressure and starting.

The tank is still draining, so I can't check just yet.

Kinda confusing post. The actual fuel outlet has a check valve in it (to keep from draining when not hooked up). If you have a good connection there, the tank doesn't have to build up pressure, just the pump..

Re-reading FB400's post above, its the same part that broke (and he tried to repair it). Its possible it broke again whan installing the line.

That "V" shaped metal part that ataches to the bottom of the exterior of the pump is supposed to protect the valve when the tank is of the bike..

IMO, at this point, I would look for for a GOOD used pump or spring for a new one. (PM Skooter65, he may have one).

A potential fire is not worth it..

 

[FB400]

artibramuir -
really sorry to hear this didn't work out as intended.

When I broke my pump outlet I kinda freaked out and became very impatient. It was the very beginning of the season and there wasn't a used Fz6 pump to be found anywhere. I bought a Fz6R pump off of Ebay and it didn't work. The seller swore it came off a good running bike. I found there just wasn't enough fuel pressure so either a defective pump or just not sufficient pumping power.

My next advice is to wait this out. I monitored Ebay for about a month after I paid $425 for a new pump and sure enough some used FZ6 pumps became available in that time. I know you just got this bike and are probably Jonesin to ride before the cold weather rolls in but you may just have to wait for a good used one to show up. Expect to pay about $100 used maybe a little less

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

Is this the one you were looking for brand new and direct replacement? I'm seeing shop selling it like $69 + shipping

New Intank EFI Fuel Pump Yamaha FZ6, FZ6R 2007-2013

New Intank EFI Fuel Pump Yamaha YZFR6, YZF R6, 600, YZFR6, R6L R6S R6R 2003-2012

 

[Nelly]

That looks very interesting? Good find.