BMC vs K&N vs Original

[y0s_bikey]

Anyone actually have more detailed figures or mappings on the comparison of three. I started from Original then changed to a K&N. The guy who did Dyno for my machine says there isn't any gain instead there is a lost. I have just received my BMC, and this time round I am going for another tuning on Dyno machine. Hope more figures will come out, I need to dig out my graphs of the first 2 runs.

 

[Norbert]

i read on this forum that stock filters the best. i'd rather not have crap getting into my engine. i'll just replace the stock filter when it gets super dirty.

I had this bookmarked from a while back:
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/9616-k-n-air-filter.html#post117014

 

[Wavex]

You're dyno_ing your bike everytime you change the filter? :rof:

Ppl always amaze me with their search for the extra uber cool 0.5 HP that will make a huge difference....

Slap the filter in there and ride the damn thing!

Happy Friday

 

[abacall]

Not to mention all the different factors that can change readings. The loss may well be due to a change in temperature, humidity, tire tread depth, a bug sneezing, who knows...
Such small changes can be due to any number of things.
For example, I did a back to back run on my cage with absolutely NO changes, and it registered 3 hp difference, five minutes later.....

Air filters are all preference... Some like K&N due to never having to replace it, some prefer the better filtration of the stock unit (though I believe that a properly oiled and maintained K&N will filter just as well).

 

[Wavex]

a bug sneezing

:rof: :rockon::thumbup:

Losing 30lb of weight will get you around 15HP back too... my advice to be faster:
- get on a diet
- improve your skills
:BLAA:

 

[RJ2112]

:rof: :rockon::thumbup:

Losing 30lb of weight will get you around 15HP back too... my advice to be faster:
- get on a diet
- improve your skills
:BLAA:

It's not the size of the wand......:thumbup:

 

[y0s_bikey]

The first Dyno Run is done on the first day of the bike for a Hard Break In, the 2nd dyno run was done with a power commander. The next run coming up is adding of exhaust and BMC. So to guage which will the most worthwhile mod.

 

[cap'n]

3 cheers for data.

 

[Neilio]

Have a K&N. If nothing else because it's easy to clean.

 

[Wolfman]

I had a choice between K&N, and BMC.....went for the BMC, cause it was cheaper...performance differences are stuff all!

:thumbup:

 

[afpreppie04]

I have a K&N, mostly because that is what my cars have so I already had the stuff to clean and re-red them.

 

[Kano]

I have a K&N, mostly because that is what my cars have so I already had the stuff to clean and re-red them.

RE-RED THEM? Its oil that you are replacing. The cotton media in the filter absorbs the oil which is dyed red. The oil helps traps dirt. But the down side the oil can be carried from the filter by the air rushing past it, if this happens you can run the risk of damaging electrical components down stream. Don't over oil them! If you don't understand how it works stick with the O.E.M. filter. I DO !!

 

[Mr Buck]

I totally agree with the over-oiling point, as a mechanic i use to replace lods of mass air flow sensors and Intake air temp sensors due to them being saturated in filter oil.

One thing I would suggest though, DONT use a OEM filters either, if you can, find one from a specialist such as FRAM etc. Auto manufacturers give the contract to people who have the best compromise between cost and quality, where as people like FRAM dont, they're there to make top quality products for sale direct to the consumer.

Just my 2 cents!

 

[dean2287]

me like k&n

 

[paper]

I've always been a UNI fan, and I was about to look into a new filter soon.. Nobody here's running a UNI??

 

[Jii_Koo]

I have K&N. It was installed when I bought the bike.

 

[LERecords]

i started with the oem.. when i had to replace, i bought another oem.. seemed to work good the first 15k miles...

 

[novaks47]

OEM for me. The OEM filter is one of the few I've seen that's pretty darn good! Plenty of surface area, and a nice balance between filtration and flow. Coupled with the more than large enough air box, and the venturi's attached to the throttle bodies, I can see little to no gains to be had from an after-market filter. At least, not enough to justify the $50-70. No offense to those that like them though, as having a washable filter is quite nice in it's own right! Heck, I have a K&N in my Mazda, just for that reason. :thumbup:

 

[sxty8goats]

Most gains in the auto world seen with K&N and other type filters are due to the intake tube that comes with the filter kits. Typically there is a compromise made in intake flow / filter position that causes poor flow characteristics in stock systems. Aftermarket tubes tend to flow better and that is what normally accounts for 15HP or so gain on a 350HP car. Just dropping a stock sized oiled filter in a stock air box does very little. On my GTO we dynoed 332RWHP or so with a stock filter and headers. Dropped a K&N into the stock airbox and saw very little change. 1 or 2 HP. Not enough to say there was any differance at all on a 332HP car. Hooked up a better intake tube to the stock box and gained @ 7 HP with a stock filter. A couple buddies of mine ran the K&N intake tube w/ cone filter and picked up somewhere @ 10 to 15HP.

FWIIW, A cam brought the RWHP up to 375RWHP. I haven't done a thing to it since. Point is, a filter change isn't going to give you much if the airbox and intake path remains the same. A 'stock' paper filter from OEM or a filter manufacturer like Puralator (Perfered over Fram by me) will protect your engine better than an oiled and run as well. Just change it when needed.

 

[Def]

Further to sxty8goats comments, I changed my original air cleaner at 33000 kms...wasn't even that dirty. If I ride my bike for 100000 kms, I will only change my air cleaner 2 or 3 times at the most.