Bike won't start.

[seanalan329]

Has happened twice in the past couple of days. The bike won't turn over. The first time I just turned the ignition on and off a couple of times and then it started. This last time was more difficult but after entering the diagnostic mode on the dash and going thru the codes it started right up. WTF?!

 

[Senior]

Flat battery perhaps ? Looking at your profile you have a 2006 FZ6 so if the battery has not yet been changed it could be at the end of it's life.

Plus looking at your headlight issues with melted connectors, are you running 100 watt bulbs ? If you are, that could be the route of the issues..... The FZ6 is known for not having much in reserve to charge the battery if you start putting extra load on it .....





Sent from my HTC One on Vodafone 4G using Tapatalk 2

 

[FinalImpact]

Flat battery perhaps ? Looking at your profile you have a 2006 FZ6 so if the battery has not yet been changed it could be at the end of it's life.

Plus looking at your headlight issues with melted connectors, are you running 100 watt bulbs ? If you are, that could be the route of the issues..... The FZ6 is known for not having much in reserve to charge the battery if you start putting extra load on it .....





Sent from my HTC One on Vodafone 4G using Tapatalk 2

^^
Good observation and well said!
Between the pair of headlights a 110 watts max is all she can handle. I.e. two low beams or a low and high. Any more and the charging system will not be able to keep up thus the battery voltage will discharge to a point of not starting. It appears the two threads share valuable info. You might place all the history of work done, parts replaced into one thread as it all looks related!
Is this bike new to you?

 

[seanalan329]

Yeah, the bike is new to me. The seller did mention changing out the bulb right before selling it. I guess he and I didn't know it would be an issue. I plan on getting a new headlight anyway though. I'll make a temporary fix until then. Thanks!

 

[seanalan329]

Alright I figured out the problem. First issue is the Neutral Switch, somewhere along the long is a bad connection and I cannot start in neutral at all. I tried disconnecting the connector and grounding but I may have done it wrong, if not then I need a new Neutral Switch.

The second problem is the Clutch Switch. It has a loose connection, so for now I just have to touch the connector while I'm squeezing in the clutch, and then I can start it without a problem.

 

[Motogiro]

As long as the clutch is pulled, providing the clutch switch/wires are in order, the bike should start even if the transmission is not in neutral. If the side stand switch thinks the side stand is down and the transmission is in gear the bike should not start. Check your side stand switch. Does the neutral light come on in neutral? If it does the neutral switch is working.

 

[seanalan329]

As long as the clutch is pulled, providing the clutch switch/wires are in order, the bike should start even if the transmission is not in neutral. If the side stand switch thinks the side stand is down and the transmission is in gear the bike should not start. Check your side stand switch. Does the neutral light come on in neutral? If it does the neutral switch is working.

The side stand is in working order. The clutch switch connection is loose so it doesn't start unless I move a bit. And I the neutral indicator doesn't come on at all.

 

[seanalan329]

Okay, now the Side Stand Switch is out! Any way to bypass that? I'm stuck at work with it.

 

[Motogiro]

How do you know the side stand switch is out? When the side stand is down the switch continuity is either open or closed. Bypassing the side stand switch can be dangerous. Same with the clutch switch. I'm now wondering whether you have a problem with the starter interrupt module. Those 3 switches go through that module.
I'm mountain biking on a trail right now but will get back to you later after looking at schematics...

Sent from Moto's Droid using Tapatalk 2 :mikebike:

 

[seanalan329]

How do you know the side stand switch is out? When the side stand is down the switch continuity is either open or closed. Bypassing the side stand switch can be dangerous. Same with the clutch switch. I'm now wondering whether you have a problem with the starter interrupt module. Those 3 switches go through that module.
I'm mountain biking on a trail right now but will get back to you later after looking at schematics...

Sent from Moto's Droid using Tapatalk 2 :mikebike:

I checked the diagnostics screen and the code for the side stand switch indicated it was 'OFF' when down or up. Just yesterday it would register as 'ON' when the stand was down. On my way to work the engine was cutting off as if it were being killed i.e. the stand being put down.

So to recap:
Neutral Switch is out since I can't start in neutral at all and the neutral light is always off.
Clutch Switch has a bad connection since I was able to start it after the slightest adjustment to the switch itself.
Side Stand Switch is out now somewhere thru the connections, per diagnostics screen.

Does that sound right?

 

[FinalImpact]

The fact that the N doesn't come on says something. Perhaps the harness at the triple area has been compromised but MORE likely is the switch itself. You should be able to ohm it out. If the N switch never lights (switch or wire being bad) the starter lockout always thinks its in gear.

seanalan329, you have an FSM? It has a comprehensive list of steps to follow in order to resolve this very situation. I'd guess it goes something like this but with allot more details:

Check the main switch. (not an issue for yours
Check the engine stop switch.
Check the starting circuit cut-off relay.
Check the fuel pump. (not an issue for yours
Check the entire fuel pump system’s wiring.
Replace the ECU. <<

Electrical system
1. Battery
• Discharged battery
• Faulty battery
2. Fuse(s)
• Blown, damaged or incorrect fuse
• Improperly installed fuse
3. Spark plug(s)
• Incorrect spark plug gap
• Incorrect spark plug heat range
• Fouled spark plug
• Worn or damaged electrode
• Worn or damaged insulator
• Faulty spark plug cap
4. Ignition coil(s)
• Cracked or broken ignition coil body
• Broken or shorted primary or secondary
coils
• Faulty spark plug lead
5. Ignition system
• Faulty ECU
• Faulty crankshaft position sensor
6. Switches and wiring
• Faulty main switch
• Faulty engine stop switch
• Broken or shorted wiring
• Faulty neutral switch
• Faulty start switch
• Faulty sidestand switch
• Faulty clutch switch
• Improperly grounded circuit
• Loose connections
7. Starting system
• Faulty starter motor
• Faulty starter relay
• Faulty starting circuit cut-off relay
• Faulty starter clutch

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The side stand switch is easily cleaned.

You don't have to unplug it, just un-bolt it from the frame, set it on a stool adjacent to the bike, pop the back off, and clean contacts as needed, fill with dilectric grease and re-assemble.


Also, if you disconnect the neutral switch (part #7) wire at the rear of the engine :

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2007/FZ6+-+FZS6W/ELECTRICAL+1/parts.html

and ground out the wire, it SHOULD illuminate the green light in the dash.

 

[seanalan329]

The side stand switch is easily cleaned.

You don't have to unplug it, just un-bolt it from the frame, set it on a stool adjacent to the bike, pop the back off, and clean contacts as needed, fill with dilectric grease and re-assemble.


Also, if you disconnect the neutral switch (part #7) wire at the rear of the engine :

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W ELECTRICAL 1 Diagram

and ground out the wire, it SHOULD illuminate the green light in the dash.

I will try both, thanks.

 

[Motogiro]

On the clutch switch there should be 2 small spade type connectors maybe they're bent and not making good contact?

There is a logic module called the starter circuit cut off relay. It will be located in one of the plastic side pods below the seat. There will be 13 wires connected to it. Check it and make sure the plug is okay. The clutch, neutral and side stand switches are all connected to this module. If this module has failed or the plug/connection is no good you will have failure to start. This module is fed from the run/kill switch. If the kill switch is hinky you may have a failure to start.

 

[Gelvatron]

Don't forget to check this


View attachment 49226


View attachment 49225

I got lucky I guess the mofo didn't have time to steal it
Just cut the wires

Freaking wankers

 

[Motogiro]

Don't forget to check this


View attachment 49226


View attachment 49225

I got lucky I guess the mofo didn't have time to steal it
Just cut the wires

Freaking wankers

He didn't have what it takes to do it any way. That Mofo didn't have no Mojo!:BLAA:

Do you have a bike cover?

 

[seanalan329]

Finally got it! I tested the starting circuit cut-off relay and it turns out that was the problem. Out of calling the bike shops in my city only one place had it and I just picked it up on my lunch and installed it, bike started up perfect :rockon:, but I still need to check my neutral switch. Also I need a new side stand switch, while trying to diagnose the problem I took it off to clean it but I lost the spring inside. I had to bypass that until my new one arrives.

The neutral switch seems hard to get to with my huge hands, any one know an easy way?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Also I need a new side stand switch, while trying to diagnose the problem I took it off to clean it but I lost the spring inside. I had to bypass that until my new one arrives.

The neutral switch seems hard to get to with my huge hands, any one know an easy way?

Did you ground out the wire to the neutral light switch and check for the green light? Any changes there?

Re changing it out, looks like on my 07, it'd be easiest to remove the CAT, (which comes up thru the swing arm) if you can't get any tools in there.. Or find a buddy with small hands.

I'd confirm that switch is defective (behind the transmission, closest to the right side)...

I'd also follow the wires from it upward and check them. Its somewhat rare for that switch to fail. If it gets very wet(without any dilectric grease) it'll short sometimes and give you a flickering green neutral light until it drys out.

 

[seanalan329]

Did you ground out the wire to the neutral light switch and check for the green light? Any changes there?

I'll try that when I get home. Thanks!