Bike won't start after battery charge

fazil

fazil

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Hello,

I had a 4 year old dead battery issue 2-3 weeks a go. Then i charged the battery but didn't put it on until today.

Today i put it and it seems it holds charge well. It cranked well but the engine didn't start. I tried 10-15 times to start and the battery was almost dead again. Then i plugged it to a car battery and cranked again. Cranked well but did not start.

My bike has immobliser feature. Do you think that would be a case?

Fuel pump operates well, gauges operate well, didn't see any trouble light.

It just doesn't take the fire.
I saw little bit of fuel coming from under tank evacuation hose also.

So any recommandations would be usefull.
Thanks

Fazil
 
you could check the voltage of your battery (ie might have a dead cell inside), might have enough to crank but not enough to make the ignition happy, and maybe you've now flooded it down with fuel.

No idea on the immobilizer though, was that stock or some kind of add-on device?
 
Immobliser system is stock. All European types have it.

That's not a battery issue. Because i tried it with a fully charged car battery.

But i might have flooded it. I don't know yet. But it seems more like a electical issue, or may be water in the fuel.

I hadn't ridden it for 3 weeks.
 
The FJR is known to flood on occasion if shut before it idles down from a cold start.

To re-start, hold the throttle wide open and crank it. You may have to do it several times.... If its flooded, this method should work (as long as you have a 12+ volts).

Make sure the car is NOT RUNNING.
 
I'd get your battery LOAD TESTED as well being its 4 years old. Most automotive stores will chack it for free.. It may show 12 volts but might not be able to carry the load (bad cell) when cranking/firing the ignition, etc...

Good luck
 
It started at last !!!
The problem solved.
It has flooded i guess.
I gave it a full throttle and bang it started like a bitch.

Special thanks to "TownsendsFJR1300" for full throttle recommandation.


I love this forum :cheer:

piano1p.jpg
 
You probably need a new battery. 4yrs is a pretty long time these day for a batterry to last. Ignitons these days are very sensitive to voltage, so even as little as a .1 or .2 voltage drop can cause some ignitions to not fire properly.

Also check for blown fuses. Loose or broken HT lead/plug cap. The 'crank with throttle wide open' idea is a good one for clearing a flooded engine. Check to make sure that you didn't disturb a battery/ignition grounding point, and that your grounding points and battery connections are free of corrosion. The fuel under the tank might indicate a plugged vent hole in your gas cap, so try clearing that also. Its possible that you have ignition probs from old gas, so drain the tank and put fresh gas in there. Good Luck.
 
Hmm, I should probably get a new battery myself. My '04 still has the original battery in it... Never had any trouble though?
Click to expand...

Mine is 2004 also.
I am the second owner. But it seems it has the original GS brand made in japan battery.
May be it's time to get a new one but i'll try to give it one more chance with my new Optimate-4 charger.
 
My battery unexpectidly dide a few months ago. I rode my bike to work, started fine. Parked it in my office parking lot, came out for lunch to go for a ride, nothing happened when pressing the start button. Turns out one of the cells inside the battery had broken causing the voltage to drop to less than 6V when cranking. Batteries can be weird sometimes.
 
just a quick thanks, had this problem with my bike today, thought it was the battery, but after charging it still wouldn't fire up. Tried it with the throttle open and it fired into life :D
 
I had been away for 2 weeks and when I went to start my bike in the morning, it was about 10 celsius. The battery was struggling and the bike wouldn't start. I put it on the charger that night and the next morning it spun great but never fired. I started searching these threads and thought it could have been flooded but wasn't sure how to fix it. I finally caved and bought a new battery since it was original from 2006 (18600 km) and it was 'due' for a new one anyway. Well I put it in and that wasn't it. I just went outside and cranked the throttle wide open and when it blasted to life... might have been one of the best moments I've had with the bike. It has been a great machine and I knew it was something simple.. but now I'm left wondering how much life that old battery still has in it! Anyway I know its an old thread but just in case it helps, if your bike inexplicably won't start after sitting.. give her a twist and see what happens!
 
I'm wondering why the FZ seems to be doing this more often (as it seems with posts here).

It seems the sitting for any lenth of time, it doesn't fire up as quick as normal and the cold (rich) cycle pumps a bit too much fuel in flooding it..

I know, when I start mine, dead cold, I smell the additional fuel at high cold idle. (my sniffer works really well, not much else). Once warmed and the idle drops, I can't smell it.

With what I learned on the FJR, (and FJR forum) and posted on the results of the WOT here, once started (from cold), I NEVER turn the engine off right away. At least let it idle down after a minute or two...


BTW, re the battery, an easy symptom that your battery is beginning to fail, your dash lights will flicker when cranking, or when its really bad, the clock re-sets.

When my prior battery was starting to fail, the dash lights flickered. I checked the voltage when cranking,(thru an BMW style outlet have mounted, an SAE connector works too and saves lifting the tank), it dropped to approx 8 volts (way too low), but still started... Ordered a new battery.
 
Last edited:
xxxxx said:
My battery unexpectedly dide a few months ago. . . . Turns out one of the cells inside the battery had broken causing the voltage to drop to less than 6V when cranking.
Click to expand...

xxxxx said:
Thats a "dead short" and no, not that unusual. A PIA thou...
Click to expand...

If these two items are related.. .. ..
If so, IT IS COMMON for cells to OPEN or disconnect internally within a lead acid battery. More often seen by vehicles over rough terrain but both passenger cars and bikes will sulfate to such a level that during cranking the high current demand between adjacent cells opens them rendering the battery useless.

I've had two in my life and read about plenty of others. No load tests show 12.5 volts but a basic 1157 brake lamp across the poles will drop the voltage to zero volts. Its better that they open internally during an short circuit event (example: battery tipping in its mount shorting to metal) as this can lead to catastrophic case failure. You don't want to be around for that. The downside is some do it prematurely.
 
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