Back driving lights

[abraxas]

Hey guys ... and gals

My back driving light bulb keeps popping, just the driving, not the brake light. It's the only bulb that is doing this.

I've checked all the obvious things, no water getting in, nothing loose, power seems stable.

I have been blaming bad bulbs, but i've been through about 7 bulbs in the last two weeks, different manufacturers etc.

What can i check / do to figure this out?

 

[ptastuart]

Maybe the Fuses?

 

[GConn]

No mods on the electrical system?

 

[mkjeld76]

I'll have to check mine. I just assumed the only the fronts were suppose to come on.

 

[Boneman]

Hey guys ... and gals

My back driving light bulb keeps popping, just the driving, not the brake light. It's the only bulb that is doing this.

I've checked all the obvious things, no water getting in, nothing loose, power seems stable.

I have been blaming bad bulbs, but i've been through about 7 bulbs in the last two weeks, different manufacturers etc.

What can i check / do to figure this out?

What exactly do you mean by "back driving light"? Are you talking about the 2 amber, rear turn signals or your center red brake light?

Your REAR amber turn signals DO NOT stay lit like the front ones do. So when your biek is on, only the fonrt signals lite up (also known as driving, running or parking lights). Your rear signals are ONLY signals and should NOT be on/lit during normal bike operation.

Is this what you are talking about?

 

[abraxas]

The REAR DRIVING LIGHTS .... the red one mounted with the brake lights.

Fuses seem fine .... checked they're correct etc.

There is aan extra light that i have added to the front, but it was done by a sparky, checked etc, and SHOULD NOT be a factor.

Voltage drops etc were double checked, seperate power, fuse and [small black box thingy] were used to ensure a completely seperate system from the standard harness.

 

[rent-a-reaper]

i had the same problem till i tracked it down. my aftermarket turn signals...the wires started touching on them and for some reason it would pop the bulb or fuse on my tail light.

hope this helps :thumbup:

 

[abraxas]

OK, this problem has NOT gone away, in fact its a lot worse now.

Add to the above: New battery, new regulator / rectifier, confirmed no shorts, all fuses good, engine warning lights and error code 46.


The only way i can ride it is by keeping the revs up when stopped, and disconnecting the front headlight and not using brights at all.

Something in the alternator .... but what?

help?

 

[VEGASRIDER]

Here in the states, the correct terminology would be called the tailight.

 

[abraxas]

Thanks Vegas Rider ... that's the one.

:cheer:

Except its working and the bike isn't. Here in sa we call that fuktup.

 

[abraxas]

Okayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy ...
I am told by the yamaha mechanic this:

It is MOST LIKELY the stator coil.
Wear and tear (3 years?)
R2500 to fix
Unlucky ... like sometimes you buy a brand new light bulb and it blows ...

 

[abraxas]

Stator giving charge, the problem is the bike will not idle, and so cannot get an accurate reading.
I will have to charge the bike first. and try again.

 

[YamahaMAXdRPMs]

Okayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy ...
I am told by the yamaha mechanic this:

It is MOST LIKELY the stator coil.
Wear and tear (3 years?)
R2500 to fix
Unlucky ... like sometimes you buy a brand new light bulb and it blows ...

how much is r2500 in $? i hope its like yen and only like $3 hehe

 

[abraxas]

Um .. hard to answer conversations .... exchange rate thingy gives me 251dollarz US.

it's a quarter my monthly salary ......

Which i don't need to spend thanks the gods. The stator is ok, definitely.
Which leaves only 2 options:

1. the regulator that i just bought is fried
2. loose connection.

My bike been standing for weeks now and i'm really no closer to solving the problem. Was at 2 autolecs this morning, they have no way to test the regulator, only by measuring the output while the bike is running. That measurement appears good.

 

[Donnie869]

(bump)

Did you get it solved, what was the problem?

 

[FazerNYC]

OK, this problem has NOT gone away, in fact its a lot worse now.

Add to the above: New battery, new regulator / rectifier, confirmed no shorts, all fuses good, engine warning lights and error code 46.


The only way i can ride it is by keeping the revs up when stopped, and disconnecting the front headlight and not using brights at all.

Something in the alternator .... but what?

help?

WHY did you have a new regulator / rectifier???? What issues did you have that made you install these? I think "sparky" f#cked up.


Edit: or did you install these to correct the current problem?

 

[abraxas]

The problem has not been solved yet.

After the battery, the regulator is the next on the list. Since it's a list of 3, my bike is on 70 000km, it was reasonable to suspect the rectifier.

On advice from several helpful people who know, i checked the stator, and have had it rechecked again. Stator is fine. at 5000 rpm i get 3 readings: 68/9 ; 68/9 ; 72/3 .... The rectifier output does not increase to the required 14.7 volts, and sits around the 13.5v mark, not enough to keep the battery charged. The rectifier i purchased from yamaha is faulty.

Yamaha have told me to bring the bike in (at my cost) for them to look at. They can only tell me what i already know, except they'll add the cost of a stator coil (just to be sure), and several hours labour, and another rectifier.

They have stated several times that they do not provide any guarantee for any electrical parts, and i was told this morning that no-one in the industry does. That is a blatant lie. I have been offered from 2 different sources a 3 months guarantee on non-yamaha parts.

So lies, faulty parts and the finger from my local yamaha dealer. My bike is still broken

 

[abraxas]

OK, it appears i lied ... the rectifier may well have been functional when i bought it.

Summation:
tail light kept blowing
bike lost charge when using brights
error code 46

Most likely stator coil was overcharging and blew the rectifier. The main point is this:
you cannot check the stator coil effectively. Even if you check the readings as per the manal, you can be deceived, as (apparently) the readings change when the stator gets hot, creating a higher voltage output. This would then blow the rectifier.

If your charging system is ever faulty, replace both rectifier and stator coil, although it appears that in this specifically, aftermarket parts are as good as genuine. Stator can be rewound effectively, a replacement is not always required.

If it wasn't silly season i could fix it now.

 

[abraxas]

Ok, stator coil was toasted, repaired by rewiring, bike still not chaging will have to replace rectifier again.

Hopefully in the 3 weeks yamaha is going to take to resupply themselves with fazer parts, it won't damage anything else.

 

[Andz]

Here in the states, the correct terminology would be called the tailight.

Here in South Africa it is called the tail light as well, never heard of back driving lights....