a couple of issues I had/have

[greg]

Ok, so I mentioned in another thread that I had some issues today

1) I noticed riding into work that all my indicators had stopped working. Testing at lunch time showed that the fuses were fine, but I caused another issue

2) The bike wouldn't start and through error code 19. At first it wouldn't fire unless I held the clutch down and had it in neutral. Then I was able to get it to fire in neutral, but it would cut off when I changed into gear.

Solutions

2) After calling the rescue guy out we determined the side stand switch was 100% ok. There looked to be some corrosion on the starter relay, so he cleaned this up with some emery cloth and cleaner. The ECU, and other relay connections looked to be fine (and were a different metal, copper). After this the bike ran fine.

1) After getting it home I checked the indicator switches and relay, these looked to be ok. I soon discovered the fault lay on the cable loom under the headstock near the battery. Moving this around caused them to start working. I haven't fixed this yet because it's going to involve quite a bit of digging and perhaps a bit of soldering.

I probably caused the starter issue when I disconnected the starter relay whilst investigating the flasher issue.

Edit: it might not have been the starter relay. What is the box with lots of connections under the left pod?

 

[Motogiro]

You could have an intermittent break in the harness at the steering if you move the bars and it reconnects/disconnects. It will require you slicing open the sheath and and examining the wires. Look at where the wiring bends as the steering is operated. This where there is more likely a break. Grab the wire in two spots on either side of the bend and pull the wire. You will feel the bad wire/s right away because the there will only be the wire insulator holding the wire together.

Let us know how you make out.

 

[FinalImpact]

FWIW: I would advice against soldering if possible. Even the best of No Clean solders can continue to oxidize as time rolls along. Go for a straight up crimp and use heat shrink tubing. No risk of oxidation taking out the repair later in life.

Also, if the repair must be made in a heavy flex region, I'd opt for replacing more wire and get the repair into an area that doesn't flex. So match the gauge correctly, use a good crimp and crimp tool, and no twisting the wires before inserting them into crimp. It degrades the contact and current carrying ability.

Good luck Greg!

 

[agf]

You learn something everyday..... I didnt know about the down side of twisting the wires ill amend my practices from now on
So far i havnt had any issues i hope it stays that way


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now it would appear to work beautifully thx TT and Dennis

 

[greg]

Cheers guys, the issue looks to be just on the corner of the battery box, there doesn't seem to be much movement there when I turn the bars, but there might be some vibrations maybe. I'll find out more at the weekend

 

[greg]

ok what do I need to crimp the connections then?

does this just basically involve fitting spade connectors and covering it with heatshrink?

why is this better than soldering and heatshinking? less likely to break again?

 

[FinalImpact]

ok what do I need to crimp the connections then?

does this just basically involve fitting spade connectors and covering it with heatshrink?

why is this better than soldering and heatshinking? less likely to break again?

Often times solder has flux, the flux if acid core will literally eat the wires and sometimes the insulation if not cleaned. Its one of those slow killers like rust.
Point two is it makes the wire brittle and reduces flexibility. Notice from the OEM few place have solder as a wire bond.
Let me look there was a fuel tank wire thread that had links to repair parts for damaged wires...

 

[greg]

ok, useful to know

I did use the solder and heatshrink method on one of the rear indicators that I fitted from an R1, as the cable was too short. I'll keep an eye on it.

 

[FinalImpact]

ok, useful to know

I did use the solder and heatshrink method on one of the rear indicators that I fitted from an R1, as the cable was too short. I'll keep an eye on it.

If you have to do it, use no - clean solder. Then clean up with denatured alcohol. Obviously on fine strand wire, you never get all the acid out of the strands.

As for twisting and crimping, picture this; grab a hand full of pasta noodle (uncooked) while all in align they shift and move and stay in contact with each other.

Applying this to our crimp it allows the strands to compress and displace without cutting each other. However, if they're overlapped or twisted, when compressed it can cut the conductors. Granted it makes it easier to insert the wire into the crimps barrel but its a bad practice. Yes, I did it wrong for years too....

Take a look here: this sight has crimp connectors that support the wire and insulation. They also have motorcycle specific connectors if we need them. Like that one for the fuel pump and meter. Pick up at post 11, 14 http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...uel-couplers.html?highlight=jjd952+electrical

If I were in your shoes; I'd opt for an non-insulated butt connector and heat shrink tubing. This place and millions of others offer this: Butt Splice Connectors : Crimp Terminal Splices scroll down for the bare connectors...

Is there a need for a spade lug to take it apart? I don't think so...

 

[greg]

cool, I've ordered a selection of some heatshrink butt connectors which look the business

will need to order some non-adhesive pvc tape for wrapping the loom up too, but that's lower priority