2006 FZ6, error 46

[turbodan]

All stator legs giving same results. (Stator is already brand new OEM). Checked Ricky stators web site but couldn't find fitting one. @turbodan I'm not sure about used OEM. Because if I get a new one from Amazon I can return it in 30 days. But if you highly recommend used OEM for some reason, I can get used.

Amazon and ebay are full of garbage parts, especially electronics. Cheap knocks offs that may work for a short period of time or may not work at all. Almost everything I buy on ebay are used parts, very rarely do I buy anything new unless it's from a seller I am familiar with and I am certain I'm getting genuine parts.

Yamaha parts are top of the line quality and failures like this are very rare. I wouldn't even consider an aftermarket part in this case. Get a good used part on ebay from a reputable seller and you also have the 30 day guarantee.

 

[indemir]

Hello guys!! Very good news here. Thanks to you all, problem solved. I changed voltage regulator with used OEM from ebay then it has fixed. Bike is ready for summer. Appreciated!!

 

[jumperAmper]

Hi
Also, the issue fixed for me after replacing the voltage regulator,
Here I've commented on the details

Error code 46 - check engine light comes on

I have a 2007 FZ6 S2, weirdly my bike seems to be running fine, but while riding around town (30mph, around 4k rpm and a lot of stop and go) after about 20-25min my check engine light comes on. I checked the error codes by going into diagnostics mode and error 46 comes up. The service manual...

www.600riders.com

 

[trepetti]

Wow! A two-fer. Two happy riders with 1 helpful thread! You guys are awesome!!!!!!

 

[Cocoloco]

Hey guys, i dont know whats wrong with my bike power cuts out at 5k rpm check engine light on(wether i twist it slowly or abruptly)
Looked at the voltmeter it showed 12.8v as it cuts out replaced the old voltmeter to clear my doubts

Before the test ride
Cleaned and check all sockets, battery terminal cleaned and also the ground wire.
3 white wire from stator resistance showed .40ohms (out of spec)
3 white wires from stator has continuity between each other.
However the the AC output seemed low ranging from 8.3v - 7.9v AC
Multimeter set to AC 200v
End to end socket stator to R/R with continuity

However ive put my multitester leads to socket of R/R red and black pin my out put is 13.9V at idle 1200-1300 rpm.
But my volt meter (tapped to parklight socket) shows only 13v
Unplugged the socket from parklight and tested directly same result as my voltmeter.
Heres the video

Could it be overcharging at high rpm or low charging?
Starter relay?
I cant enter diag mode because of a damn button thats not working
Ive got no problem starting the bike
Ive charged the battery 12.8v
Battery is only 1 month old
I bought the bike it comes with a spare R/R

 

[Motogiro]

When you ohmed out the stator did you also check for continuity between each lead to ground? If you're seeing 13 plus volts DC output the AC output at the stator should be much higher.
As far as the rpm related problem you might want to run a jumper across the kill switch to see if it eliminates the problem. We've had members with similar problems because the kill switch was making and breaking contact at the frequency of the vibration of the bike.

You can easily see a difference of 1 volt between that red read out voltmeter and your digital multimeter.

 

[Gary in NJ]

3 white wires from stator has continuity between each other.
However the the AC output seemed low ranging from 8.3v - 7.9v AC

Your stator maybe fried. There should be NO continuity from each leg of the stator to ground. There should be about 0.22-0.34 ohm resistance between each leg.

But the AC output should be closer to 75VAC @ 5000 rpm. Re-run the test to make sure it's not actually 8VAC. At 8VAC you should have a dead battery in short order.

 

[Cocoloco]

When you ohmed out the stator did you also check for continuity between each lead to ground? If you're seeing 13 plus volts DC output the AC output at the stator should be much higher.
As far as the rpm related problem you might want to run a jumper across the kill switch to see if it eliminates the problem. We've had members with similar problems because the kill switch was making and breaking contact at the frequency of the vibration of the bike.

You can easily see a difference of 1 volt between that red read out voltmeter and your digital multimeter.

I'll try bypassing the switch to eliminate it to the checklist
As per ground, you mean negative lead to battery ground, and positive lead to 3 white wire from the stator?
I need to redo the test tomorrow.

 

[Cocoloco]

I

Your stator maybe fried. There should be NO continuity from each leg of the stator to ground. There should be about 0.22-0.34 ohm resistance between each leg.

But the AC output should be closer to 75VAC @ 5000 rpm. Re-run the test to make sure it's not actually 8VAC. At 8VAC you should have a dead battery in short order.

I need to redo the test, i made a mistake checking resistance, i didnt measure the resistance of the leads and subtract to the reading
Also made a mistake measuring AC out put , i put the negative lead to the battery ground, while the positive is on one of the 3 legs,.
I havent check the R/R for resistance either
Thank you!
As per ground, you mean body ground or batter ground (-)

 

[Gary in NJ]

I

I need to redo the test, i made a mistake checking resistance, i didnt measure the resistance of the leads and subtract to the reading
Also made a mistake measuring AC out put , i put the negative lead to the battery ground, while the positive is on one of the 3 legs,.
I havent check the R/R for resistance either
Thank you!
As per ground, you mean body ground or batter ground (-)

Ground it to the engine case.

 

[Cocoloco]

I tested it all again
Battery voltage dropped to 10V cranking motobatt 11A 220cca

No short in 3 leg stator to the ground
AC voltage 20V at idle 70V at high rpm all 3 legs
DC voltage at R/R socket 13.8-14.1v when revving and idle
But when tested to battery terminal 13.4v when revving
Tested R/R
Forward bias
.503 , .493 ,.499
Reverse bias
0 0 0
Heres the video of when it cuts the power

7k when parked 5k cut when riding


If im left with no choice i would crack open my cluster to clean the buttons

 

[Motogiro]

That sounds like a very even miss. Not a fuel miss. When you first talked about it I thought maybe the fuel pump is not keeping up but it doesn't sound like that type of miss. Also I see your voltmeter dropping voltage as you rev higher. These symptoms could fall under many different theories.
Have you tried running a jumper at the kill switch?

 

[Gary in NJ]

It is not unusual for a brief voltage drop during when increasing RPM. But the recovery should be immediate. What is strange is the voltage itself is low. An idle voltage of 12.8-13.1 is low by 0.5v.

This really requires the fault codes to diagnose. Otherwise it's just wild guessing.

 

[trepetti]

It is not unusual for a brief voltage drop during when increasing RPM. But the recovery should be immediate. What is strange is the voltage itself is low. An idle voltage of 12.8-13.1 is low by 0.5v.

This really requires the fault codes to diagnose. Otherwise it's just wild guessing.

While we're guessing, I can tell you that when my RR went last season, this was the EXACT issue I had. At idle there was adequate charging voltage, but as I revved the motor, the charging voltage dropped.

 

[Cocoloco]

That sounds like a very even miss. Not a fuel miss. When you first talked about it I thought maybe the fuel pump is not keeping up but it doesn't sound like that type of miss. Also I see your voltmeter dropping voltage as you rev higher. These symptoms could fall under many different theories.
Have you tried running a jumper at the kill switch?

I forgot about the killswitch i dont know what else could be the problem aside from charging system.
Ill try bypassing the killswitch tomorrow

 

[Cocoloco]

It is not unusual for a brief voltage drop during when increasing RPM. But the recovery should be immediate. What is strange is the voltage itself is low. An idle voltage of 12.8-13.1 is low by 0.5v.

This really requires the fault codes to diagnose. Otherwise it's just wild guessing.

I cracked open the cluster cleaned the buttons but to no avail, i'll take it to a technician if they can clean or replace the button, i ve found out it has a tactile button theres no way of cleaning it without getting it into pieces

 

[Cocoloco]

While we're guessing, I can tell you that when my RR went last season, this was the EXACT issue I had. At idle there was adequate charging voltage, but as I revved the motor, the charging voltage dropped.

Ive read your post about you having this issue. Did your bike act this way when you have the faulty R/R?
I already ordered a new R/R im hoping this will solve my problem.

Oh man ive worked so hard to get this bike back and running now im facing this problem.
I just really want this bike to scream

 

[Motogiro]

While we're guessing, I can tell you that when my RR went last season, this was the EXACT issue I had. At idle there was adequate charging voltage, but as I revved the motor, the charging voltage dropped.

Exactly. At the higher rectifying voltage and frequency the RR could be failing. Eliminating a vibration possibility at the kill switch where the problem is still exhibiting would lead us to questioning the RR. With RR failure the ECU may be seeing ripple and is programmed to save it from AC by limiting RPM.
I would still jump the kill switch and eliminate it. This is where an O scope would really help to see RR failure with ripple at higher revs.

 

[Cocoloco]

After a trip to my friend, he managed to clean the button, im in diag mode now
I have to figure out how to reseal this thing
Now is the time to learn how to read this
Will update when problem is solved
Parts is on its way

 

[Cocoloco]

Confirmed
Error 12
Error 42
Charging issue it is
Thank you everyone for the help!
I'll replace both the stator and R/R at the same time!
Wish me luck