Don't do what I did

chunkygoat

Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2008
Messages
792
Reaction score
11
Points
18
Location
Pennsylvania
Visit site
Welllllllllll I'm pretty sure I destroyed my front sprocket and chain. I posted a couple of weeks back about chain tension when replacing the chain and sprockets.

Well I misunderstood and gave about 1 and 1/2" slack.....except it was LIFTED on its centerstand. I thought nothing of it until I felt some slippage and noticed some small little metal specks around the rear wheel and along the chain.

By then the damage was done - I'm sure. The chain seemed to get looser on me over the next week and I had re-tightened it - but it did no good, the damage was already done.

I know my mistake, I simply had too much tension on the chain, it stretched as a result, and became loose - and began grinding the front sprocket away.

SO - if you are a DIY wrencher and you plan on putting on sprockets and a chain - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Take the bike down off the centerstand then check to maintain the 1 and 1/2" slack. Or else you will end up like me -> out 150$.

Well you live you learn, hopefully somebody else can learn from my basic mistake.

Has anybody else had something to this effect happen to them before? Is there anything else I should be made aware of or inspect for damage beyond just the sprocket and chain? Just briefly looking it over, I don't see any damage so I'm hoping for the best.
 
Last edited:
That's too bad. Look on the bright side, though -- sprockets and chains are relatively cheap and easy compared to what could go wrong :)

For others reading this post, though, it might be fair to clarify what went wrong when you tightened your chain. In your previous post, you said you made it taught while up on the center stand, which to me suggests much less than 1.5". The manual says 1.77-2.17 on the center stand. So the problem wasn't so much that you were on the center stand - this was correct. The problem was taking the chain tension tight on the center stand. You wouldn't want that even if you were on the ground.

But hey, now you know, and you won't make that mistake again. It's a learning experience! Don't even get me started about how I found out about torque wrenches and their clicking ...
 
I bought a nice Haynes manual on amazon for 25$ shipped its hard cover and a few color picks definitely worth it
 
??? OP "gave about 1 and 1/2" slack.....except it was LIFTED on its centerstand" The spec is 1.77" to 2.17" on the center stand. Can you cause this much damage by tightening the chain 1/4" too tight? Seems not a whole lot of room for error. I wouldn't think no more then this would cause the problem the OP has. If so, it's good to know as I am planning on replacing mine some time in the next little bit (I have about 22k miles on it now).
 
Welllllllllll I'm pretty sure I destroyed my front sprocket and chain. I posted a couple of weeks back about chain tension when replacing the chain and sprockets.

Well I misunderstood and gave about 1 and 1/2" slack.....except it was LIFTED on its centerstand. I thought nothing of it until I felt some slippage and noticed some small little metal specks around the rear wheel and along the chain.

By then the damage was done - I'm sure. The chain seemed to get looser on me over the next week and I had re-tightened it - but it did no good, the damage was already done.

I know my mistake, I simply had too much tension on the chain, it stretched as a result, and became loose - and began grinding the front sprocket away.

SO - if you are a DIY wrencher and you plan on putting on sprockets and a chain - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Take the bike down off the centerstand then check to maintain the 1 and 1/2" slack. Or else you will end up like me -> out 150$.

Well you live you learn, hopefully somebody else can learn from my basic mistake.

Has anybody else had something to this effect happen to them before? Is there anything else I should be made aware of or inspect for damage beyond just the sprocket and chain? Just briefly looking it over, I don't see any damage so I'm hoping for the best.
I'm really sorry that I have learned this at your expense. I always check the tension unsprung on the centre stand. I will be changing that now.
Neil
 
Can you cause this much damage by tightening the chain 1/4" too tight?

In their original post, the OP said they tightened it "taught", which I took to mean absolutely no slack (or hardly any). I agree, I wouldn't think 1/4" would be a disaster - increased wear, no doubt, but not catastrophic immediately. I would think. Not sure ...


Nelly said:
I always check the tension unsprung on the centre stand. I will be changing that now.

Checking chain slack on the center stand is the correct way to do it. The slack, however, should not be 1.5", but rather between 1.77 and 2.17.

Perhaps the OP can chime in on if the chain was in fact initially no slack on the center stand before this thread drifts too far off.
 
That's too bad. Look on the bright side, though -- sprockets and chains are relatively cheap and easy compared to what could go wrong :)

For others reading this post, though, it might be fair to clarify what went wrong when you tightened your chain. In your previous post, you said you made it taught while up on the center stand, which to me suggests much less than 1.5". The manual says 1.77-2.17 on the center stand. So the problem wasn't so much that you were on the center stand - this was correct. The problem was taking the chain tension tight on the center stand. You wouldn't want that even if you were on the ground.

But hey, now you know, and you won't make that mistake again. It's a learning experience! Don't even get me started about how I found out about torque wrenches and their clicking ...

+1 on the above.

It should be checked on the center stand however, the measurement SHOULD be taken AT THE TAUGHTEST POINT should the chain tighten and loosen slightly when rotated..

PM me if you need a Yamaha PDF shop manual with the year bike..
 
I thought nothing of it until I felt some slippage and noticed some small little metal specks around the rear wheel and along the chain.

I'm curious as to what slippage is described here. The only slippage i've ever felt with a chain was when I took all the teeth off the front sprocket on my four wheeler. Then it would slip and chatter every time you got on it but still rode home.

This also sounds more like an alignment issue as i agree a 1/4" in tension should not cause this severe of failure. Is there wear on the inside or outside of one of the sprockets or teeth? I'm thinking checking the alignment of the rear tire with the "string method" or maybe the drive hub didn't seat correctly. Not sure about the drive hub since I haven't had mine apart.
 
It shouldn't have ground anything away unless something wasn't seated correctly.

I remember reading elsewhere on this forum, to check the FZ chain tension WITHOUT A CENTERSTAND IS about the same #'s as a centerstand equipped bike, except the bike is held upright (on the ground)...

I'd pull that front cover off and check the ft sprocket and make sure its fully seated and tight (and not rubbing on anything).

And yes, that chain will whine big time being too taught.... Hopefully the bearing in the rear sprocket hug (where the 6 studs/nuts bolt the sprocket to) is ok (and as posted above, seated FULLY) and didn't fail, might be worth checking..
 
I can see it hapening while having it too tight on the center stand. for one there is no weight on the suspension and the chain gets tighter as the suspension is compressed.

so if the measurment was taken at the loosest part of the chain vs the tighest and while on the center stand, preload set real low and say a 200lb rider that chain would be incredibly tight! <<<<worst case senerio

this is why i always check my chain slack while someone is sitting on my bike! It might not be how the book says to do it but thats how my buddy showed me he was taught at MMI and he hasnt failed me yet! and doing it that way i got about 25k out of the stock chain with it seeing severe to extreme abuse!:spank:
 
I can see it hapening while having it too tight on the center stand. for one there is no weight on the suspension and the chain gets tighter as the suspension is compressed.

so if the measurment was taken at the loosest part of the chain vs the tighest and while on the center stand, preload set real low and say a 200lb rider that chain would be incredibly tight! <<<<worst case senerio

this is why i always check my chain slack while someone is sitting on my bike! It might not be how the book says to do it but thats how my buddy showed me he was taught at MMI and he hasnt failed me yet! and doing it that way i got about 25k out of the stock chain with it seeing severe to extreme abuse!:spank:

The only potential problem with that is that it may be too loose and potentially jump the sprockets. I suspect there's a little more slop when on and off the throttle too.. The standard approx 2" play is ALOT compared to other bikes. If you got that many miles without the chain jumping, Excellent..
 
According to the Haynes book, chain slack is 44-55mm measured from the top of the link to the bottom swing arm. I set mine at 45, with no problems in the last 100 miles.
 
The only potential problem with that is that it may be too loose and potentially jump the sprockets. I suspect there's a little more slop when on and off the throttle too.. The standard approx 2" play is ALOT compared to other bikes. If you got that many miles without the chain jumping, Excellent..

this is very true but that is also why when measureing like this i dont go by the sugested slack, i normally go a little tighter (about 1" of slack while someone sitting on the bike)

i imagine that if i were to go by the recomended slack with someone sitting on it, it would be incredibly loose.

Since most every rider is differnt and their suspension might be different as well i like to think that this is a better way to measure vs what the book tells you. Because if you take a extremly light weight person's bike who has their preload set to the max vs a rider over 250, add saddle bags and preload set at the lowest point and set their chains to the same tension while on the center stand once they get on the bike the heavier riders chain would most likely be WAY to tight.
 
Ok, your setting it slightly tighter with weight on the bike to fit your particular weight, suspension settings etc, Fine tuned, if you would.....

I'd be curious to see how close your actual setting is to the suggested Yamaha spec's on the centerstand (tighter/looser, same?)
 
it would be interesting to see but i dont have a centerstand on my bike, is there a way i could lift it with no pressure on the rear that i might just not be thinking of?
 
I set mine per the manual and it does well with a passenger. And also with a full load of luggage. It's probably set that way from the factory with the consideration that it's a sport tourer and the loads on the suspension will vary. It's a good range for any situation.
 
Ok, your setting it slightly tighter with weight on the bike to fit your particular weight, suspension settings etc, Fine tuned, if you would.....

I'd be curious to see how close your actual setting is to the suggested Yamaha spec's on the centerstand (tighter/looser, same?)

I doubt it'd be much different between adjusting on the side vs center stands. MAYBE 1/8". My guess is the directions to but it on the center stand are to make it easier to rotate the wheel and find the tight spot in the chain.
 
Back
Top