Throttle body sync

going going.....gone

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Still got original spark plugs in so they have done 6700miles. Do they need changing? Also I guess I didn't need to do the tb sync but she was running like s**t now through the revs feels much smoother and picks up well also stopped my problem of the bike cutting out when stopping with clutch in.


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Davey

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Been doing loads of work on the bike the last few weeks - spark plugs, oil and filter change, and thought I'd better get on to syncronising the throttle bodies as the bike has just passed 32000kms.

This how to was very helpful! I hired a carbtune (way cheaper than buying one that I'd probably use once in a blue moon) and it took no longer than about 30 mins from start to finish. A bonus was that it hardly needed any adjustment! I use my bike everyday rain or shine, and the engine is just fantastic. She'll do another 32000kms no worries reckon. :Flash:
 

Truffel

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Just did the synchronisation to get rid off excessive mirror shaking and vibrations. The vibrations didn't go away(hand still tingling after highway speeds) but the mirrors are useable now. But I ran into some trouble because if I adjust my idle to the standards(1250-1350 rpm) I cannot get the pressure correct. It should be synched at 22cmHG(as far as I know) and I couldn't get it below 23,5cmHg(now synchronized at 23,9cmHg) or else my idle would go up(1450 rpm). If I then adjust my idle again the pressure would go up again.

Except for the exhaust(leovince) everything is standard on my FZ6 '04. Could sparkplugs replacement help or should I keep on trying to sync with the correct idle and cmHg setings? Or is this no problem at all and should I live with the vibrations and the fact that not both idle and pressure can be in the standard settings?
 

Motogiro

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There are a few things that might effect this. When was the last time your valve clearance was checked?
 

Karate.Snoopy

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Guys these vibrations are killing my 50+ miles rides. Anything over 90 minutes and I start loosing the feeling in my hands and feet. It seems to be worse on the right (right hand and right foot).
I tried multiple things to address this but without avail
Here are some of the things I tried

1)Oil change (We know the Fizza loves one)
2)Air Filter change
3)Spark plugs upgraded to NGK Iridiums
4)Used Techron a couple of times
5)Measure tire pressure twice a week and keep at 33F/36-38 R
6)FZ1 Bar installed
7)Grip puppies installed
8)TB Sync done this past Saturday. # 4 was slightly off but by no more than 5%. I did the sync as suggested in this thread.

Other corrections were made on my body positioning and form. Had the coaches at Total Control Clinic monitor and help me with this. My grip on the handlebar is light, I am 5'8" and weight 167 lbs and sometimes feel like my legs are a bit cramped.

One other thing that I need to try is the Spark Plugs Cap as mentioned in another thread.

I have had my fazer for around 2 years now and use it mostly for <50 mile rides. But every time I try going on longer rides I get killed out there.
This is about the only gripe I have with my bike and would hate to have to let it go because of this.
Any help would be very much appreciated.
 

FinalImpact

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Guys these vibrations are killing my 50+ miles rides. Anything over 90 minutes and I start loosing the feeling in my hands and feet. It seems to be worse on the right (right hand and right foot).
I tried multiple things to address this but without avail
Here are some of the things I tried

1)Oil change (We know the Fizza loves one)
2)Air Filter change
3)Spark plugs upgraded to NGK Iridiums
4)Used Techron a couple of times
5)Measure tire pressure twice a week and keep at 33F/36-38 R
6)FZ1 Bar installed
7)Grip puppies installed
8)TB Sync done this past Saturday. # 4 was slightly off but by no more than 5%. I did the sync as suggested in this thread.

Other corrections were made on my body positioning and form. Had the coaches at Total Control Clinic monitor and help me with this. My grip on the handlebar is light, I am 5'8" and weight 167 lbs and sometimes feel like my legs are a bit cramped.

One other thing that I need to try is the Spark Plugs Cap as mentioned in another thread.

I have had my fazer for around 2 years now and use it mostly for <50 mile rides. But every time I try going on longer rides I get killed out there.
This is about the only gripe I have with my bike and would hate to have to let it go because of this.
Any help would be very much appreciated.

You mention looking at the plug caps, I urge you to inspect them before getting more discouraged with the bike. Its less then 1.0 hrs work to fix them all, maybe a little more to measure all the caps. http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/48874-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.html

I caution those who allowed others to work on their bike; Yes, we all want to believe the plug manufactures has gapped the plugs to the spec they said they did however inspection of my NEW NGKs (I used single ground strap CR9E, vrs CR9EK's which have a bigger gap at 0.032") found only one had a gap of 0.028" (manufacture Spec) and all the others were over at 0.03X or more! Because the gap opens as they wear, carbon plugs should be set to 0.027 or less IMO. Exceeding the recommended gap can lead to misfires and vibrations, as will bad connections at the cap to wire junction.

Follow the instructions to the letter and post up your results. Good luck!

EDIT: Define CR9E gap at 0.028" vs CR9EK at 0.032"
 
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Karate.Snoopy

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You mention looking at the plug caps, I urge you to inspect them before getting more discouraged with the bike. Its less then 1.0 hrs work to fix them all, maybe a little more to measure all the caps. http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/48874-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.html

I caution those who allowed others to work on their bike; Yes, we all want to believe the plug manufactures has gapped the plugs to the spec they said they did however inspection of my NEW NGKs (I used single ground strap CR9E, vrs CR9EK's which have a bigger gap at 0.032") found only one had a gap of 0.028" (manufacture Spec) and all the others were over at 0.03X or more! Because the gap opens as they wear, carbon plugs should be set to 0.027 or less IMO. Exceeding the recommended gap can lead to misfires and vibrations, as will bad connections at the cap to wire junction.

Follow the instructions to the letter and post up your results. Good luck!

EDIT: Define CR9E gap at 0.028" vs CR9EK at 0.032"

I do love my bike minus the vibrations, I am not too mechanically inclined and have a 3 week old baby boy -Translating to very little sleep and time.

I would not mind paying some one local (MA) with a FZ6 who be so kind to help me with this.
 

Truffel

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There are a few things that might effect this. When was the last time your valve clearance was checked?

I don't know exactly. I bought the bike with 19200 km's(11300 miles) on it and it is now on 26500 km(16466 miles) with a small maintenance check(checking the usual things and adding some lubricants and oils). According to the service manual it needs to be checked every 42000 km so that shouldn't be it, though it could be nice to check. But it costs a lot of money to let someone do it and I'm not that confident with engines and d.i.y. that I'm going to try it myself ;)

+1 on that. Have you replaced the air filter? and you might need to check the motor mount bolts, if loose they can cause excessive vibrations.

Jerry

The air filter is not replaced yet so I could do that. The motor mount bolts have been checked and were ok.

One thing I might add is that I started noting the vibrations after installing the leovince exhaust. Before that they were virtually non-existent, so you can imagine how happy I was I didn't have them while a lot of you did :BLAA: I also might add that everything that has something to do with the new exhaust has been checked and double checked. CO has been adjusted, bolts and friction points have been checked and were not the problem.

I also noticed in the service manual that the spark plugs need to be replaced at 25000 km(16000 miles) so that needs to be done as well(I think it hasn't been done in the maintenance check) but it is weird that I notice such a big difference after installing the new exhaust(at least I think it is a big difference but can't check anymore since the old exhaust is not ready to mount anymore :( )
 

sxty8goats

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I do love my bike minus the vibrations, I am not too mechanically inclined and have a 3 week old baby boy -Translating to very little sleep and time.

I would not mind paying some one local (MA) with a FZ6 who be so kind to help me with this.

Holbrook here. I haven't done plugs on the FZ6 yet, haven't needed to.

Couple things though. How is your actual grip? I've found that at the start of the season I tend to have a bit of a deathgrip on the bars. My right hand suffers the most because I'm on the throttle and can't really release to relax as often as I can with my left. Once I relax a bit most of the vibration issues go away for me. The things I do to force myself to loosen my grip are resting my fingers on the break/clutch levers as I ride and bending my elbows to get my arms more or less parallel to the road. That takes the pressure off of my wrists and opens my grip. I also installed softer silicon grips which absorb a lot of vibration.

So, if you want to swing by sometime after work one of these days I'd be happy to take a look at your bike and you can sit on mine to see if the vibration is similar. I've been meaning to pull out my vacuum gauge and balance my TB's anyway.
 

FinalImpact

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In the pic below at 15,000 miles.... Stock plugs show excessive wear on the electrode and the gap opened upwards of .038" (Max is 0.032"). The issue is these bikes have a feeble coil output compared to todays standards for ignition systems so this hurt their performance! Other systems MAY handle this "normal wear" but ours doesn't do it as gracefully as we'd like to think thus we potentially suffer "bad vibrations" as a result.
As mentioned in the thread I didn't put the dual strap plugs back in. And at the time of this plug change I found another cap loose. Based upon your issues, and miles, I'd start with new plugs and check the caps.

Making the bike even smoother than it was....
She got fresh plugs. In 2009 Yamaha spec'd the CR9E plug, so I went with that as the side gap plug always wear fast allowing the gap to change beyond spec. I'm not sure there is any evidence they burn any better.

Take a look here you can see that #2 and #3 are worn in pretty good as they are now OVAL SHAPED electrodes. The gap was way over 0.028" @0.038" Also the Manufactures gap said the NEW plug was supposed to be at 0.028". Only one was. So check those new plugs.
picture.php


More fuel deposits on plug #2. Or is that the aftermath of finding a caps wire loose some 2000 miles ago.
picture.php
 

Karate.Snoopy

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Holbrook here. I haven't done plugs on the FZ6 yet, haven't needed to.

Couple things though. How is your actual grip? I've found that at the start of the season I tend to have a bit of a deathgrip on the bars. My right hand suffers the most because I'm on the throttle and can't really release to relax as often as I can with my left. Once I relax a bit most of the vibration issues go away for me. The things I do to force myself to loosen my grip are resting my fingers on the break/clutch levers as I ride and bending my elbows to get my arms more or less parallel to the road. That takes the pressure off of my wrists and opens my grip. I also installed softer silicon grips which absorb a lot of vibration.

So, if you want to swing by sometime after work one of these days I'd be happy to take a look at your bike and you can sit on mine to see if the vibration is similar. I've been meaning to pull out my vacuum gauge and balance my TB's anyway.

Very much appreciate the offer, I will try to see if I can play hooky from work and come out there. I will send you a PM as soon as things start to open up here
 
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